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Vera Plus and RFXtrx

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I’m selling my Vera Plus and RFXtrx if anyone is interested. I’m in Brighton, South East UK so if anyone is interested then let me know and well work out how to do a deal. I want £100 for the pair, comes with UK PSU for Vera and USB and antenna with the RFXtrx.

Also have 3x Lightwave motion sensors, 3x Lightwave Wireless Mood Switches, 5x Lightwave magnetic door/window sensors and all work with Vera and RFXtrx, Vera has been reset to factory default.

Whole lot for £200.

Evohome - Heating requested by ghosts

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Hello,

I remember seeing the issue in the past but I cannot recall the resolution.

I've got Evohome (4 zones with Hr92) with Intergas via Opentherm.

Ive noticed recently (but it might have been there before) that boiler comes on by itself with heating.

The boiler comes on every so often with flow around 70C but when I checked Evohome all zones and evohome itself reported 0% demend?

I've changed my boiler from Ariston to intergas last year and reset Evohome by wiping all rooms and setting them up again.

I've also removed my livingroom and readded it again yesterday - but the problem is still there.

Is there any resolution please?

Thanks for replies in an advance.

Min distance between two Evohome controllers

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I have two controllers that are currently next to each other. I'm planning to move them and it occurs that it might be beneficial (although a pain to do) to put them at least 300mm apart. Has anyone experimented with effects of separation of controllers?

Multi-room feature - some questions

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Hi there!

From looking at other posts, I believe that with multi-room zone all the HR92s in that zone have the same schedule but act independently using their own sensor.

With single-room zone, the controller shows the current temperature measured by the designated sensor.
But with multi-room zone, what temperature does the controller show? Lowest temperature measured by all the HR92s in the zone?

I assume that with multi-room feature, using a remote sensor is not really appropriate?

HomeKit

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I read today that Hive has now added HomeKit support to control its devices. ‘‘tis time Evohome did the same. Is it coming?

Connecting smart water meter

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Hi,

In an attempt to monitor our water usage more closely, I bought a water meter from ebay (sensusrf 640). I have an outside hope of being able to pick up its wireless transmissions to actually make it smart, but that's an extension! My initial issue is in trying to find the right connectors to connect it to my 15mm copper supply pipe. The external diameter of the threads is just over 33mm and the inside diameter of the pipe is approximately 25mm. I obviously need some form of reducer to take it down to 22mm or directly to 15mm but am really struggling to find the right part - can anyone help point me in the right direction? I've attached a couple of photos in case they help.

IMG_20200524_195303.jpgIMG_20200524_195321.jpgIMG_20200524_195338.jpg

Many thanks

Andrew
Attached Images

Controlling external light seasonally

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Hi,

We have a number of external lights under Cortex control and I am generally pleased with the way that I have them running.
However, there is one thing that bugs me a little and I would appreciate some thoughts on how I might address the issue.

At its basic level the external lights are set to come on based on time and an external light level threshold, and then go off at a set time later in the evening.
This can be overridden in one of two ways: There is a manual override that we can use to leave the lights on when we are out for the evening, and a 'daybreak' control that turns the lights on at a set time in the morning if it is dark and someone is moving around downstairs - this deals with the 'leaving home in the dark' scenario in the winter months.
So far, so good - so what is the issue? It's quite simple really - at this time of year the lights will regularly switch on for just a few minutes when it finally gets dark enough during the operating time period just before they are due to switch off.

So my question is this, what is the best way to ensure that the lights don't come on in a fixed period (perhaps 15 to 20 minutes) just before they are due to go off anyway.
I've tried setting up a virtual lamp with the same turn on time and light level settings, but with a slightly earlier switch off time, but I can't work out how to link that to the real light.
I am using various enable/disable and mode settings to control the lights already.

Any ideas much appreciated. And in case anybody is asking 'Why?' it has to do with when the dog and I decide to go for his 'last thing at night' walk :-)

Thanks,
Martin

Boiler setting when only DHW wanted

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We're told to have DHW set to 55deg to avoid legionella problems. I don't have the ability to measure the output temp of the boiler, and the dial on the W-B boiler isn't much use, but if it's set too low then the DHW will take forever to heat-up. What do people do with their boiler temp setting when CH is off?

Smart Control Help

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Hello to everybody taking the time to read this post.

I will start by introducing myself, I'm Martin from Stockport and I'm here today with a question I'd like to get some opinions on if I may…

Given the current climate with smart technology, I feel it time I dive in myself. Currently I have a Vaillant boiler with Vaillant controls and outdoor weather compensator, however the outdoor weather compensator has become faulty. So rather than replacing this at a substantial cost of £220 pounds. I would rather invest the money in new controls.

I am lost in the world of different brands and versions of heating controls. I think I have narrowed it down to Honeywell EvoHome, GeniusHub or Drayton Wiser. Excluded Heatmiser due to the need of a manifold or actuators.

Hopefully, somebody here can give me direction if I share what I have now.

ecoTEC Plus 624
VRC 470F Wireless Stat – Downstairs Zone
VR81 Remote Stat – Upstairs Zone
Albion 210 Hot water store with temperature probe running straight to the boiler, Electric stat is currently not wired up.
3 Honeywell zone valves all hard wired into my VR61, Upstairs Circuit, Downstairs Circuit and Hot Water. (will become 4 when UFH goes in)

I understand that my 470 offers true weather compensation and has better modulation for the most part BUT, the outdoor unit has failed and needs to be replaced.


*Whats the issue*

We live in a fairly large house with a total of 8 rooms and 9 Rads downstairs and 7 Rooms and 8 Rads upstairs. some of our rooms are unoccupied for weeks at a time or used very sporadically and without turning off the TRVs we have no control and feel its just a waste and other rooms heat up much faster than others creating some real hot and cold spots in the house - we did have everything balanced too. We also have no control via phone or any "smart" features.

*What i would like*

in an ideal world i would like a solution that can help save us some money and only heat the rooms we want at the times we want, so i am drawn to the EvoHome straight away, i know i would loose certain "key" things from my 470 but i believe the benefits of modern system will outweigh the loss ?; I would like to control the 3 zone valves as is to avoid any pipework modification and i would like to control thermostatically the hot water tank rather than it be a case of on/off, i dont believe the evo home can do that? we are about to embark on an extension project that will see the installation of a 3 zone single room underfloor heating system so will need to be able to control wet UFH.


Can anyone please help me try and decide on what to do here?

I also know that Vaillant are to bring out their new Senso stats but I suspect they will lack the power of the aftermarket units BUT will be propriety for my boiler which me be advantageous given that the vaillant boiler is not opentherm and only manageable through eBus.

HR92/T87RF2033 "No Sync" Issue

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Morning all,


I've cracked the heating back on this morning, and the HR92 in my office is displaying "no sync". This room has a T87RF2033 controlling the temp and a HR92 on the rad.

I've taken the HR92 into the room where the controller is and tried to force a sync, but its not done anything. The T87RF2033 has the wireless symbol permanently displayed. Is this saying the sync issue is with the T87RF2033 rather than the HR92?

Nothing has changed in the system set up in the last couple of weeks from when the heating was turned off, and there haven't been any furniture movements etc that could have caused an obstruction. Apologies, I know there have been topics on sync issues previously, but I couldn't find on with this combination of controllers.

Am I going to have to delete and rebind the devices?

Update: Now it is displaying a comms fault...

Update 2: I've cleared all the bindings and rebound the components, which has fixed the issue. Would still be interested on hearing peoples thoughts in case it crops up again.


Cheers,

Ian

(UK) Vaillant + DHW cylinder + Evohome?

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Hi all,

I've recently had a new Vaillant Ecotec 424 installed - this is a vented system with DHW cylinder (single heating zone, radiators only). This replaced an ancient system which was woefully too small for the house (15kW).

I (naively) opted to carry over my Hive controller - and starting to see the downfalls now. The biggest one is that the boiler only ever sees a "demand" - it can't differentiate between DHW heating and radiator heating, so I can only set one temperature to heat to.
This is causing the DHW heating to constantly go into anti-cycle, which also stops the pump after so long. Once the temp has dropped low enough everything comes back to life. It just takes a long time to heat the cylinder like this, unless I raise the temps (not an issue in summer as CH not used).
The original installer has kindly offered to drop off a VR66 wiring box and a basic Vaillant programmer from his stock. It's my understanding the VR66 allows the separate control of the DHW and CH systems so will be a permanent fixture. Does anyone know otherwise?

I do like the look of the Evohome, but I'm struggling to see how I could get it to work with the VR66? I know I can get the VR33 Opentherm module (warranty issues aside) - but will that conflict with the VR66 and can the boiler use eBus for that and OT for Evohome?
If I need to remove the VR66, does the traditional y-plan wiring get used (which then puts a single "demand" on the boiler)?
If there is a single demand, is the Evohome is able to tell the boiler what temp to use (so higher for DHW, and lower the CH?)

Sorry for the huge list of questions, but I want to be sure I can get everything working properly before committing. I do like the look of Evohome, and the starter packs seem pretty cheap recently - but it might be wasted money and I'll have to stick with the Vaillant programmer.

Evohome Installation help

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Hello all,

I hope everyone is well?

So, with great thanks to this forum I have today taken delivery of my Evohome kit:
Evohome Controller
Table Top Stand
2x BDR91's
Hot Water Kit with sensor
8x HR92
8x HR91

My current heating system is made up of:
Vaillant ecoTEC Plus 624 System.
VR81 on the landing UPSTAIRS
VR61 in landing cupboard
VRC 470F DOWNSTAIRS
Albion 210 Hot water store with temperature probe running straight to the boiler. GAS ONLY, the Electric heating element is not connected.
3 Honeywell zone valves all hard wired into my VR61.
230V = Mains in from fused spur feed back out VIA 5 core flex to boiler 2 core (grey and black) feed from BUS
LP/ZP = DHW Cylinder Honeywell Zone Valve
HK1-P = Heating Zone 1 (Down S) Honeywell Zone Valve
HK2-P = Heating Zone 2 (Up S) Honeywell Zone Valve
BUS = VR81, RF Receiver from outdoor weather comp / 470F & two cores to boiler


I will be hooking up all 12 Zones with 2 rooms having two rads and DHW, currently no UFH is needed.


So i am now stuck at the first hurdle, where do i even start... I thought it was going to be pretty straight forward by all accounts. My Brother is Gas safe reg and will check my boiler once i have completed and all wiring is in place (however i am an ex spark)

I am fully aware that OpenTherm is not an option and i dont want to get the VR33 to make it so.

This was my understanding:
1) remove eBus cables and connect to BDR91
2) DHW 2port valve to be removed from VR62 and connected to BDR91
3) Manually override / lock open Up and Down 2 port valves
4) Setup and live happily ever after.

But i have much more going on here and im lost.

Can anyone please help me out? - before anyone suggests i get in a "Professional" to do this work, i have tried, 3 heating engineers, 1 didnt even know what modulation was and the other 2 had less of a clue on Evohome than me.

Many thanks to all.

Evohome low battery icon in zone

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I cannot remember ever seeing a low battery warning icon on the control panel for a zone. Is this something new? Weird thing is that there is no message in the Fault Log about any low batteries.

New HR92 display Valve E2

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I've just added two new zones to my system and five HR92s (four in one of the two new zones). The first zone and it's HR92 worked just fine.

All four HR92s in zone 2 bound just fine (actually, it only allowed two to be added then I had to go back and mod the zone to add the other two), however when I ran a test by turning up the temp requirement in the zone only three responded correctly. The fourth one displayed the new temp then displayed "Valve E2".

I checked on t'internet at Honeywell's site and for Valve E2 it suggested possibly misalignment etc. I thought I'd been careful seating everything.

I tried what they said .... factory reset of the HR92.... still displayed Valve E2
I then unlocked the fourth head and another and swapped the heads over and retested. The Valve E2 message moved with the head.

Does anybody have any suggestions on this please, short of contacting the supplier and getting the head swapped, I'm sure I must have missed something.

Previously I'd had nine zones and eleven HR92s running fine for about two years, without any real problems.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Honeywell, Resideo Contact Help Please

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I have a friend who has Honeywell security and Heating. Of late he found he cannot access the security side from his app. Heating is OK. He has done the usual route of deleting the app and reloading. He has tried and better tried to get a response from Honeywell Support, but getting though is not easy and he finds the assistance unsupportive. All he has managed to get when he got through talked to a human was that there is a fault at Honeywell's end but no further explanation about it being rectified. It is a few weeks now. I suggested he deletes his account and re registers but on one of the few occasions he got through on the telephone he was advised not to do that. He can't either get in to delete anyway.

I have looked up the contact data to get an address for him to write to the Chairman and he will do that but does anybody here know who to contact at Resideo or Honeywell that will produce a response?

He finds the customer service from Honeywell appalling which disappoints him because as an electrical engineer in his professional life he always had good dealings with Honeywell. But that was not the domestic market.

Incidentally the contact address for Resideo comes out as a company called Ademco1 Limited which, according to Companies House has not filed its accounts!

If anybody knows a way to get though please advise!

For Sale: iWallDock ipad mini wall mount

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I bought three of these iWalldock ipad mini wall holders for my new house, but in the end only used one. They were stupidly expensive ($200 each plus postage from the US which became around £200 total each) and in reality are just a bit of white plastic. I was amazed I couldn't find a cheaper or more local solution - however much I tried.

However the one I mounted actually looks really good on the wall. It is recessed into the wall, and I ran a power supply behind it so it never needs to move. For the right person it's a great solution. We use it to control the Rako lights and curtains, and the Sonos music. We just didn't need that in the other two rooms in the end.

These are matte white, and sized for an ipad mini 1, 2, or 3.

I'm not looking for anywhere near £200 each (!) for them, but if someone wants to make me a senisble offer for one or both I'm happy to post out.

https://www.iwalldock.com/collection...12575185961077

Thanks!
Ben.

HR92 Batteries

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I have mentioned in previous postings that one of my HR92s has consistently needed its batteries changing every three months over the last 5.5 years. As an experiment I changed to lithium batteries. I got 4 months out of them!

evohome setting up in stages

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Hi Ive been buying the evohome components as I can afford them. I now have the 'Connected thermostat pack', 1 x ATC 928 and 1 x BDR 91. I also have 8 of the HR92 valves. My question is can I install these components as the first stage in a full Evohome system, and control the opening and closing of the valves ? All advice appreciated!
Dafydd

Evohome setup to incorporate a thermal store unit

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Hi, I have an existing thermal store system, and I'm in the process of adding Evohome controls. My plumbing knowledge is next to nil!!
I can't get my elderly head around what and how Evohome is going to have to control with this thermal store system. All the instructions deal with either combi or conventional systems! The thermal store takes mains pressure water in through a coil and directly out to the taps. The water around the coil is kept at around 70 - 80 o from what I've read. The central heating water comes from this surrounding water I take it?
I'd appreciate any help or advice.
cheers!!
Dafydd

Fixed my HR92 !

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HR92_fault.jpg

Around 2 years ago a colleague at work and I went halves on a box of 4 HR92's from a fella on Ebay. They duly arrived and did indeed look brand new with all the accessories but weren't in the usual box. My plan was to have one as a spare and the other would be on an extra radiator to be added at some point.

Wind forward two years and the new rad is in place (along with a shiny new ATAG Economiser IC35+ with an opentherm gateway) so out go the BDR91's for heating and hot water switching. All working beautifully apart from the new rad, whose HR92 would bind to the controller without issue but would not call for heat. Tried clearing the bindings and a full reset, then rebinding but no cigar. Took the head off and opened the valve fully, immediate heat so had to be HR92 related.

So - tried the other HR92. This one failed dismally with an "E2" error, so possibly a jammed gear of faulty motor perhaps. I put that one on one side. Now I'm thinking that these 'new' HR92's were customer returns perhaps? Ah well, too late now to send them back.

I'm an electronics engineer by trade, and inherently I'm a cheapskate who'd rather hang on to my cash, so out with the tools. It is possible to strip the HR92 down without breaking any locking tabs if you are careful.

  • Pop the top cover off and remove the batteries.
  • Pull gently on the white cog that is rotated by the top cover when you turn it. The spindle that turns the rotary encoder inside the device will pull out.
  • Undo and remove the single silver screw that can be seen.
  • You'll now see three black plastic 'barbs'. Whilst pulling gently upwards with your finger in the battery hole, use a terminal screwdriver to release each barb in turn by pushing gently on the barb (away from the motor) and the top white circular moulding with the battery cover attached will pull out.


Now you need to get the front moulding piece off (the one with the Honeywell logo on it) - this is the more difficult bit. Use a 'spudger' - see Amazon or Ebay, the stainless steel ones are incredibly useful for this kind of job - always buy at least 2 so that one can hold a gap open whilst the other is prising the next clip.

Start at the bottom under the display and near the retainer slide that holds the head onto the radiator valve. There are two clips here that release fairly easily and allow you to start lifting things off. Now work your way up. On each side there is another clip. Once these are released there are just two more clips at the top, one on each side. These two are the awkward ones - I found that by gently pushing in on the tops of the front moulding whilst also gently pulling outwards on the sides of the larger back moulding eventually the front moulding will pop inside of the edges of the back moulding. Once at this point the entire front moulding with pcb /display and everything will start to pivot at the top and eventually you can release the top clips without breaking anything.

Once this is off you can see the electronics. In my case my eye was immediately drawn to the whisker of wire shorting out what I believe is the radio antenna (gold coloured) to the positive terminal with the red wire. It would be an odd circuit which has the positive supply as a reference for a transceiver antenna methinks. It looks like when the unit was manufactured, the red wire was cut but one strand remained and got pushed up against the antenna. I cleared this and reassembly was just a reverse of the above process. And it works now too so £55 saved. Happy days:)

The morals of this story - 1. Not all on Ebay is what it seems (though I think we all knew that anyway didn't we?) and 2. You have nothing to lose, open it up and have a good look!

I do have some other photo's which I took with the unit disassembled but didn't post these as it would make the thread too heavy. Happy to send these to anyone who fancies having a go though.

Cheers
Robin

Edit: - Fixed the second HR92 with the "E2" problem now as well. The connections to the pcb from the motor and the battery compartment are made by four springy metal pieces. Having got this one apart, there was no "witness mark" on one of the gold pads at the bottom of the pcb, so clearly there was insufficient contact pressure. Dabbed a 9v battery across the motor contacts once the pcb was off and the motor and gears were turning nicely. Having bent all of the 4 contacts out slightly and reassembling the unit, everything is as it should be.

I've added some more internal photo's as I've realised that the forum seems to resize/reformat the pictures so they don't take up too much bandwidth. Hopefully these will be of use to somebody in future, if only to see where the plastic retainer clips are.

HR92_Motor.jpgHR92_PCB.jpgHR92_PCB_Side.jpgHR92_top.jpgInteresting that there's a push switch on the pcb that is actuated via a pin sized hole in the retaining slide at the bottom of the HR92 - anyone know what this is used for? Hardware reset perhaps or a means of getting the cpu into bootloader mode to update the firmware?
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