I have just trawled through the Honeywell Home web pages - https://www.honeywellhome.com/ - to see what is coming. The products seem to be USA orientated but some nice ideas for thermostats. Nice if we could have these, one for each room, sensing when people are in and adjusting the temperature in a better way than a TRV fixed to a radiator. I can of course use the Evohome round wall thermostat, I have one, in my living room but not wall mounted. I would prefer to have one in every room but apart from the cost the lady of the manor objects to things mounted on the wall!
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Honeywell Home
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Vaillant, VR33 and Nest - what's possible?
Hi everyone
I've had the ageing boiler replaced and UFH installed and wondering what the options are, hoping the expertise here will get me going in the right direction!
I have:
-Vaillant 630
-3 x Nest Gen 3
-2 UFH zones - there are 7 actuators split amongst the two zones.
-Upstairs is traditional rads and hot water from an unvented cylinder (Joule) controlled by the third Nest
My understanding is this is what I need to do:
-Order VR33 from Holland
-Install VR33, disconnect the 240v from the Nest Healink to the boiler and connect the OpenTherm link somehow (happy to be corrected)
Does the Heatlink still control the actuators over 240v?
I don't have new TRVs yet on the old radiators upstairs, do I have options to allow Nest to control each one? Not sure I do to be honest
THANKS!
I've had the ageing boiler replaced and UFH installed and wondering what the options are, hoping the expertise here will get me going in the right direction!
I have:
-Vaillant 630
-3 x Nest Gen 3
-2 UFH zones - there are 7 actuators split amongst the two zones.
-Upstairs is traditional rads and hot water from an unvented cylinder (Joule) controlled by the third Nest
My understanding is this is what I need to do:
-Order VR33 from Holland
-Install VR33, disconnect the 240v from the Nest Healink to the boiler and connect the OpenTherm link somehow (happy to be corrected)
Does the Heatlink still control the actuators over 240v?
I don't have new TRVs yet on the old radiators upstairs, do I have options to allow Nest to control each one? Not sure I do to be honest
THANKS!
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Evohome HR92 - gets stuck on local override
Not for the first time, my Evohome system is driving me nuts.
As i understand it, if you set a 'local' override on one of the HR92 radiator valves (that is, by turning the knob on the radiator valve itself) then the new temperature should apply until the next setpoint in the programme.
In other words, if at 9.30 I turn the radiator knob up to 21deg, and my daily programme sets the temperature as 15deg from 10.00, then the HR92 should target 21deg until 10.00 and then revert to the programmed 15deg.
Is that right?
This seems to happen fine in two of my zones, but not the third. Come the 10.00 setpoint, it simply stays at 21deg. It stays there until I either change it locally again, or do a manual override from the main controller. If I do a manual override from the controller, then everything works as it should: that applies until the next setpoint and then it reverts to programme.
I've tried:
- resetting and rebinding the HR92
- deleting the 'trouble' zone, making a new one, rebinding to that
- swapping the HR92 itself with one from another zone (the problem persists in the same zone, so it seems that the zone is the problem, not the particular HR92)
- moving the location of the controller (eventually to within 2m direct line of sight of the HR92)
None of this helps.
The HR92 can communicate with the boiler relay, because turning the local control brings the boiler on almost immediately.
The HR92 seemingly can send signals to the controller, because the controller seems to receive and display the measured temperature from the HR92
The HR92 seemingly can recieve signals from the controller because it responds to the programme setpoints fine when there *isn't* a local override active
The controller can communicate with the boiler relay fine because everything else works.
I'm baffled... any ideas?
As i understand it, if you set a 'local' override on one of the HR92 radiator valves (that is, by turning the knob on the radiator valve itself) then the new temperature should apply until the next setpoint in the programme.
In other words, if at 9.30 I turn the radiator knob up to 21deg, and my daily programme sets the temperature as 15deg from 10.00, then the HR92 should target 21deg until 10.00 and then revert to the programmed 15deg.
Is that right?
This seems to happen fine in two of my zones, but not the third. Come the 10.00 setpoint, it simply stays at 21deg. It stays there until I either change it locally again, or do a manual override from the main controller. If I do a manual override from the controller, then everything works as it should: that applies until the next setpoint and then it reverts to programme.
I've tried:
- resetting and rebinding the HR92
- deleting the 'trouble' zone, making a new one, rebinding to that
- swapping the HR92 itself with one from another zone (the problem persists in the same zone, so it seems that the zone is the problem, not the particular HR92)
- moving the location of the controller (eventually to within 2m direct line of sight of the HR92)
None of this helps.
The HR92 can communicate with the boiler relay, because turning the local control brings the boiler on almost immediately.
The HR92 seemingly can send signals to the controller, because the controller seems to receive and display the measured temperature from the HR92
The HR92 seemingly can recieve signals from the controller because it responds to the programme setpoints fine when there *isn't* a local override active
The controller can communicate with the boiler relay fine because everything else works.
I'm baffled... any ideas?
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EvoHome with a single HR92 radiator thermostat
I currently have my EvoHome setup without any wireless thermostats/TRVs with the WiFi touch controller in the hallway opposite a radiator that's about about a metre away. I have a single HR92 sitting around doing nothing and was wondering if I could install that on the main bedroom radiator and have that single zone determining when the boiler CH switches on or off, with conventional TRVs on all the other rads controlling the temp around the rest of the house. Can I do that?
My reason for asking is that I recall someone in this forum saying that I'd at least have to have an HR92 on the hallway radiator. Is that the case?
My reason for asking is that I recall someone in this forum saying that I'd at least have to have an HR92 on the hallway radiator. Is that the case?
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Vaillant 831 Eco Tec Plus combi with open therm
Hi,wanting to know if it's worth having open therm on the Vaillant 831 Eco Tec plus combi,I know the vr33 will fit and work with my boiler.This being run by a Honeywell evohome and zoned using the hr92 trv's on all rads bar a towel rad in the bathroom.System seems to run well as is,but would like to be able to try and keep the boiler condensing all the time if possible but before I start spending more money,just wanted people's thoughts on this,those who have done the same.Hope this all makes sense.
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Evo home Rf comms check
When performing an rf comms check I get not received for all of the hr92s in my system. However the system works as it should. Is this just a bug with the firmware?
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Ufh evohome alternative?
Guys,
Looking for some advice, I currently have the evohome set up to control all my radiators in the house, I'm now looking for something for my 3 ufh zones. I could stick with the evohome but the cost of the new BDR's and stats seem a bit excessive for what I want, all I want.
Currently I have a wired stat in each zone with a further single setback stat, they all go back to my old danfoss programmer. I have each star set at the temp I want in each room throughout the day (21c) and the programmer set to turn on at 6am and off at 10pm which is fine but I'm looking for something to keep the temp at a certain temp during the 'off time'as I'm finding it drops significantly through the night and spends most of the day trying to catch up.
I did think about seting the set back stat at a higher temp but don't know how efficient that will be?
Is there anything I can install instead of my danfoss to give me better Control without spending hundreds and hundreds of the evohome ufh system?
Thanks
Looking for some advice, I currently have the evohome set up to control all my radiators in the house, I'm now looking for something for my 3 ufh zones. I could stick with the evohome but the cost of the new BDR's and stats seem a bit excessive for what I want, all I want.
Currently I have a wired stat in each zone with a further single setback stat, they all go back to my old danfoss programmer. I have each star set at the temp I want in each room throughout the day (21c) and the programmer set to turn on at 6am and off at 10pm which is fine but I'm looking for something to keep the temp at a certain temp during the 'off time'as I'm finding it drops significantly through the night and spends most of the day trying to catch up.
I did think about seting the set back stat at a higher temp but don't know how efficient that will be?
Is there anything I can install instead of my danfoss to give me better Control without spending hundreds and hundreds of the evohome ufh system?
Thanks
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Evohome : All Room Setting
In the colder few days we've just had, I've noticed that that there's not an ability to turn the heating up across the house by a few degrees ?
Does anyone have any suggestions rather than going through each room manually ?
Does anyone have any suggestions rather than going through each room manually ?
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UFH - EvoHome and reluctant plumber
Hi All,
We're having an extension put in with wet under floor heating for the kitchen - the plumber is suggesting this is done with 3 piping runs to improve the effectiveness of it.
I've been using the EvoHome setup across the rest of the house for a couple of years and very happy with it - the flexibility between rooms, zones, API that can be used separately to the apps etc.
The plumber however has never dealt with EvoHome and pushing me towards HeatMiser claiming cost but then also saying it will be the same number of controllers on the manifold either way. I'd rather stick with one controlling system overall.
I'm not familiar with the piping/manifold setup for UFH and I must admit still struggling a bit on the EvoHome vs HeatMiser parts. I was wondering whether those here that know way more than me (pretty much everybody!) could help me on the difference between the two cost wise and whether that difference gets much worse based on the 3 pipe runs.
Thank you!
P.S. Irrespective of any answers on this one, thanks to everyone that does help and answer threads on this forum - it's been a mine of information!
We're having an extension put in with wet under floor heating for the kitchen - the plumber is suggesting this is done with 3 piping runs to improve the effectiveness of it.
I've been using the EvoHome setup across the rest of the house for a couple of years and very happy with it - the flexibility between rooms, zones, API that can be used separately to the apps etc.
The plumber however has never dealt with EvoHome and pushing me towards HeatMiser claiming cost but then also saying it will be the same number of controllers on the manifold either way. I'd rather stick with one controlling system overall.
I'm not familiar with the piping/manifold setup for UFH and I must admit still struggling a bit on the EvoHome vs HeatMiser parts. I was wondering whether those here that know way more than me (pretty much everybody!) could help me on the difference between the two cost wise and whether that difference gets much worse based on the 3 pipe runs.
Thank you!
P.S. Irrespective of any answers on this one, thanks to everyone that does help and answer threads on this forum - it's been a mine of information!
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Evohome 'Newbie' Questions.
Apologies if these are simple questions but I haven't been able to locate an answer whilst searching around here.
Q1. Everything I've checked looks to be set right but my 'Zone 4 Study' shows a demand of 23 deg but an actual temp of 17 deg. The radiator is cold. The valve isn't stuck. The HR92 seems to be paired correctly but does nothing. I have cleared and rebinded the HR92 but there's no difference.
In the 'Settings - Zone Configuration - 4 Study' menu, I have selected: Heating Type - Radiator Valve, Temp Sensor - Remote Sensor, Window Open - Disabled, Local Override - Enabled, Single Room Zone.
Any ideas?
Q2. I have four zones that have two or more rads/HR92's in each. My problem is the same in each; only one radiator heats up in each of these zones.
When binding them, I did them one at a time and had a 'Success' message for each one. As each zone is large enough to be subject to temp variations at each end, I set each of these zones as multi-room as my understanding was that they could all work away independently of the other/s HR92's.
For info, the zones are as follows:
'Zone 1 Kitchen' - has two rads/HR92's at opposite ends of a big kitchen/diner.
'Zone 5 Master Bedroom' - has two rads/HR92's at opposite ends of the bedroom/dressing area.
'Zone 3 Hall/Landing & Ground-floor Toilet' - has one rad/HR92 in the hall downstairs, one rad/HR92 in the ground-floor toilet, one rad/HR92 on the first floor landing.
Again, how might I have set this up wrongly? Any ideas?
Q1. Everything I've checked looks to be set right but my 'Zone 4 Study' shows a demand of 23 deg but an actual temp of 17 deg. The radiator is cold. The valve isn't stuck. The HR92 seems to be paired correctly but does nothing. I have cleared and rebinded the HR92 but there's no difference.
In the 'Settings - Zone Configuration - 4 Study' menu, I have selected: Heating Type - Radiator Valve, Temp Sensor - Remote Sensor, Window Open - Disabled, Local Override - Enabled, Single Room Zone.
Any ideas?
Q2. I have four zones that have two or more rads/HR92's in each. My problem is the same in each; only one radiator heats up in each of these zones.
When binding them, I did them one at a time and had a 'Success' message for each one. As each zone is large enough to be subject to temp variations at each end, I set each of these zones as multi-room as my understanding was that they could all work away independently of the other/s HR92's.
For info, the zones are as follows:
'Zone 1 Kitchen' - has two rads/HR92's at opposite ends of a big kitchen/diner.
'Zone 5 Master Bedroom' - has two rads/HR92's at opposite ends of the bedroom/dressing area.
'Zone 3 Hall/Landing & Ground-floor Toilet' - has one rad/HR92 in the hall downstairs, one rad/HR92 in the ground-floor toilet, one rad/HR92 on the first floor landing.
Again, how might I have set this up wrongly? Any ideas?
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Aqualisa Q and control of extractor fan (with Rako)
Hi,
Why oh why, when speaking to the majority of electricians and plumbers do I get a look of shock when discussing any form of automation?! Automation systems have been around of years yet I'm still looked at as if I'm an early adopter. :(
At home I use Rako Controls for downstairs lighting (due to a renovation), Evohome for HW/CH and SmartThings for other automation voodoo. For our new bathroom project, I'm planning to use a Rako wireless battery switch panel to operate the lights and Sonos (via Rako Gateway that I already own). I've selected an Aqualisa Q for the shower, mainly for the digital capability and family friendly interface.
I've been told I need to have an extractor fan, which the electrician even after knowing my other automated aspects of the house, suggested I use a pull string to turn on the fan!! I don't want the fan to come on when the lights come on, even though that is possible using Rako + modules. I do want the fan to come on when the shower comes on.
So, is it possible to put a relay of sorts in between the Aqualisa Q and pump (comes with the Q) and the extractor fan?
Hoping for some quick useful responses as the trades are on site this week.
Many thanks.
Why oh why, when speaking to the majority of electricians and plumbers do I get a look of shock when discussing any form of automation?! Automation systems have been around of years yet I'm still looked at as if I'm an early adopter. :(
At home I use Rako Controls for downstairs lighting (due to a renovation), Evohome for HW/CH and SmartThings for other automation voodoo. For our new bathroom project, I'm planning to use a Rako wireless battery switch panel to operate the lights and Sonos (via Rako Gateway that I already own). I've selected an Aqualisa Q for the shower, mainly for the digital capability and family friendly interface.
I've been told I need to have an extractor fan, which the electrician even after knowing my other automated aspects of the house, suggested I use a pull string to turn on the fan!! I don't want the fan to come on when the lights come on, even though that is possible using Rako + modules. I do want the fan to come on when the shower comes on.
So, is it possible to put a relay of sorts in between the Aqualisa Q and pump (comes with the Q) and the extractor fan?
Hoping for some quick useful responses as the trades are on site this week.
Many thanks.
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Some questions and advice please...
I have not had the need to mess with my Idratek system for a while - has it has worked well and has been stable. However, circumstances dictate that I have to make some changes, hence questions...
I may have to move house in about 12 to 18 months. The way the house has been wired up, there are no conventional light switches. I do have CAT5 running to where light switches used to be and we have Idratek switches, but lights pretty much turn on and off depending on how we use the room, and only in a few rooms do we use the Idratek switches. I will therefore have to leave things as they are, but not sure how any subsequent owners will find Idratek. Currently, Cortex is running on an Epia with Windows XP (!), and I had not really needed to upgrade either the machine or Cortex. It is rackmounted in the garage and on the odd occasions (after brownouts, which we do get every now and then), I have had to VNC in to restart Cortex. Trying to convince any new owners that this is not too difficult a task may be difficult! I have considering replacing the system with either Loxone or KNX as I believe I ought to be able to re-use my CAT5 cabling, but I do think Idratek is a much better system and will regret dismantling it if I do end up living here a few more years. Hence, questions and advice....
1. Is there an Idratek installer who may be able to take over the system and support / remote configure for any new owners? This would mean that I can keep the system as it is and don't need to spend money to replace it.
2. If anyone has considered moving away from Idratek, would KNX or Loxone be a better substitute? I think if I were replacing the system, I would have to go with an installer, rather than DIY, for support later.
Now, a few other questions...
3. If I remember correctly, Karam did mention sometime ago about a firmware module which works like a super reflex? Is there such a module or one planned? This would mean that all the clever stuff can sit in a box with just a web interface for the stats etc and a Windows laptop will only be required for configuration. Is this is a possibility? This would remove reliance on a Windows machine running Cortex and ought to make transferring to a new owner an easier experience.
4. My current AUI is working as a glorified doorbell only. I had been wanting to get DFP-H02s (I would want to get 6 - 8 !), but held off as I was hoping there would be a module which would make use of the video. I have recently been playing with Google Home minis but they are a disappointment as they do not work properly with our GSuite accounts, but the broadcast facility has become indispensable to get the kids downstairs. Is it possible to use the minis as an audio interface to Cortex and to allow two-way communication with the AUI? Maybe Alexa? Alternatively, can the DFP-H02 integrate with Google Assistant or Alexa such that it then becomes the interface? This would be a killer function!
5. Our electric UFH is not as yet fully integrated with Cortex. It is currently only on and off via Cortex as I never found a way of integrating the floor temperature sensor with Cortex. Is there a way of doing this?
Any thoughts / advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
I may have to move house in about 12 to 18 months. The way the house has been wired up, there are no conventional light switches. I do have CAT5 running to where light switches used to be and we have Idratek switches, but lights pretty much turn on and off depending on how we use the room, and only in a few rooms do we use the Idratek switches. I will therefore have to leave things as they are, but not sure how any subsequent owners will find Idratek. Currently, Cortex is running on an Epia with Windows XP (!), and I had not really needed to upgrade either the machine or Cortex. It is rackmounted in the garage and on the odd occasions (after brownouts, which we do get every now and then), I have had to VNC in to restart Cortex. Trying to convince any new owners that this is not too difficult a task may be difficult! I have considering replacing the system with either Loxone or KNX as I believe I ought to be able to re-use my CAT5 cabling, but I do think Idratek is a much better system and will regret dismantling it if I do end up living here a few more years. Hence, questions and advice....
1. Is there an Idratek installer who may be able to take over the system and support / remote configure for any new owners? This would mean that I can keep the system as it is and don't need to spend money to replace it.
2. If anyone has considered moving away from Idratek, would KNX or Loxone be a better substitute? I think if I were replacing the system, I would have to go with an installer, rather than DIY, for support later.
Now, a few other questions...
3. If I remember correctly, Karam did mention sometime ago about a firmware module which works like a super reflex? Is there such a module or one planned? This would mean that all the clever stuff can sit in a box with just a web interface for the stats etc and a Windows laptop will only be required for configuration. Is this is a possibility? This would remove reliance on a Windows machine running Cortex and ought to make transferring to a new owner an easier experience.
4. My current AUI is working as a glorified doorbell only. I had been wanting to get DFP-H02s (I would want to get 6 - 8 !), but held off as I was hoping there would be a module which would make use of the video. I have recently been playing with Google Home minis but they are a disappointment as they do not work properly with our GSuite accounts, but the broadcast facility has become indispensable to get the kids downstairs. Is it possible to use the minis as an audio interface to Cortex and to allow two-way communication with the AUI? Maybe Alexa? Alternatively, can the DFP-H02 integrate with Google Assistant or Alexa such that it then becomes the interface? This would be a killer function!
5. Our electric UFH is not as yet fully integrated with Cortex. It is currently only on and off via Cortex as I never found a way of integrating the floor temperature sensor with Cortex. Is there a way of doing this?
Any thoughts / advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
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Using a CS92 to control a DHW circulation pump ... ?
Because Evohome can't be used as a timer my DHW circ pump is controlled by a standard CH programmer. I was about to add a pipe stat and then thought ... perhaps I can control it with Evohome by using a second CS92+BDR91, with the sensor strapped (with thermal paste) to the DHW return pipe.
I presume I can't bind two CS92s to the same controller (is that correct?) but I have two controllers (lots of zones) so, presumably, I could use the DHW binding on the second controller for the circ pump control.
Any reason why any of this wouldn't work, or any better ideas?
I presume I can't bind two CS92s to the same controller (is that correct?) but I have two controllers (lots of zones) so, presumably, I could use the DHW binding on the second controller for the circ pump control.
Any reason why any of this wouldn't work, or any better ideas?
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Viessmann / Honeywell OpenTherm issue
I have had the dreaded Viessmann Vitodens 100 / Honeywell R8810 OT bridge combination. Sometimes the boiler grinds to a halt with the F:A9 error and we have to power the boiler off and wait. It usually works after a couple of resets sometime for days on end.
Other times it appears to clear itself. Presumably there are times when we dont notice this. When there is a problem I get three flashes of the red light on the R8810.
It would be good to have a reliable system, but at the moment the OT combination is not fit for purpose. In an old thread StephenC suggested reversing the telemetry configuration on the Evohome controller Im reasonably savvy but have no idea how I would do this. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get these two bits of kit to work.
Thanks
PS Not sure if its normal but even when the boiler is working it seems to run very hot. I thought the point of OpenTherm was to have the minimum temperature required.
PPS Happy to switch off the R8810 if it makes it more reliable, but it would be a shame
Other times it appears to clear itself. Presumably there are times when we dont notice this. When there is a problem I get three flashes of the red light on the R8810.
It would be good to have a reliable system, but at the moment the OT combination is not fit for purpose. In an old thread StephenC suggested reversing the telemetry configuration on the Evohome controller Im reasonably savvy but have no idea how I would do this. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get these two bits of kit to work.
Thanks
PS Not sure if its normal but even when the boiler is working it seems to run very hot. I thought the point of OpenTherm was to have the minimum temperature required.
PPS Happy to switch off the R8810 if it makes it more reliable, but it would be a shame
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Honeywell Hom
Honeywell have the Honeywell Home app as well as the one we use for Evohome Heating and Security. They say:
“Honeywell Home connected products simplify home comfort, security and awareness by allowing easy control with a single app.”
They don’t! I cannot add Evohome Heating (home comfort) nor Evohome Security (security and awareness) to the Honeywell Home app. It is crackers to have two separate systems yet they say their products “simplify home comfort...”
What they say is incorrect. Probably a breach of some advertising guide as well. You need two separate apps if you have other non Evohome products.
Common sense says you integrate the whole lot, but sense is not common.
“Honeywell Home connected products simplify home comfort, security and awareness by allowing easy control with a single app.”
They don’t! I cannot add Evohome Heating (home comfort) nor Evohome Security (security and awareness) to the Honeywell Home app. It is crackers to have two separate systems yet they say their products “simplify home comfort...”
What they say is incorrect. Probably a breach of some advertising guide as well. You need two separate apps if you have other non Evohome products.
Common sense says you integrate the whole lot, but sense is not common.
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Evohome WiFi Controller - Battery Issue?
Morning!
I had the power off for 15 minutes at the weekend and when I looked at my Evohome Controller, I noticed it was off. Gave it a prod, nothing.
Dead as a doornail. As soon as the power was restored, it booted back up and worked normally with the charging symbol on the display, and seemed back to normal.
Now, as soon as I lift it off the cradle, it says 'please wait a few seconds' then shuts down and immediately boots back up again showing full battery, however - within no more than 20 minutes it goes off again and cannot be woken unless put back on the cradle.
My not-entirely-scientific conclusion is that the batteries are knackered. The device is 9 months old and has never been off the cradle since installation.
The batteries are GP ReCyko+ Pro (they shipped with the unit)
Any ideas?
Steve
I had the power off for 15 minutes at the weekend and when I looked at my Evohome Controller, I noticed it was off. Gave it a prod, nothing.
Dead as a doornail. As soon as the power was restored, it booted back up and worked normally with the charging symbol on the display, and seemed back to normal.
Now, as soon as I lift it off the cradle, it says 'please wait a few seconds' then shuts down and immediately boots back up again showing full battery, however - within no more than 20 minutes it goes off again and cannot be woken unless put back on the cradle.
My not-entirely-scientific conclusion is that the batteries are knackered. The device is 9 months old and has never been off the cradle since installation.
The batteries are GP ReCyko+ Pro (they shipped with the unit)
Any ideas?
Steve
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Having to keep entering app password
I seem to find myself having to renter my email and password and a daily or even twice daily basis. Is there any way to get the app to really remember my password?
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Honeywell Evohome & HW customer service perception
Reading this board, I often reflect on how critical we are of features of EvoHome, and of Honeywell in general. Personally, I am pretty happy with my Evohome, but there is SO much that could be improved. So I had a hunt around and found this:
https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/hon...hermostats.com
Now although this is about general HW thermostats, HW should really sit up and take notice - People are not happy.
Honeywell could use this board to gain access to such a passionate set of expert and basic users with feedback/suggestions etc for product development.
They need to engage more and listen far more. We all want Evophome to be successful, and HW may be surprised how many people are prepared to contribute to this - All FOC!
https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/hon...hermostats.com
Now although this is about general HW thermostats, HW should really sit up and take notice - People are not happy.
Honeywell could use this board to gain access to such a passionate set of expert and basic users with feedback/suggestions etc for product development.
They need to engage more and listen far more. We all want Evophome to be successful, and HW may be surprised how many people are prepared to contribute to this - All FOC!
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Any Drayton Wiser users around?
This forum looks like an unofficial support forum for Evohome ( to the extent that people don't even mention products they are using in the posts, which I find quite amusing), but I do wonder if there are any current users of Wiser around?
When I was researching which smart heating system to invest into it looked apparent that what is missing is actual comparison based on something else than just feature specs between different systems (to be fair it's probably unreasonable to expect a large user base to have used multiple systems during long period of time).
In the end I chose Wiser based on small things I picked up on different forums when people were discussing Evohome (which was the only real contender for me at the time) and so far not disappointed. Can share my reasons if people want to know as well.
When I was researching which smart heating system to invest into it looked apparent that what is missing is actual comparison based on something else than just feature specs between different systems (to be fair it's probably unreasonable to expect a large user base to have used multiple systems during long period of time).
In the end I chose Wiser based on small things I picked up on different forums when people were discussing Evohome (which was the only real contender for me at the time) and so far not disappointed. Can share my reasons if people want to know as well.
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HR92 - noise observations
We have 16 HR92's, (12 + 2) are fitted to fairly modern double panel radiators and 2 to stainless steel towel radiators.
HR92 actuation noise was considered in this household (by XYL) to be a problem, but now the noise has all but gone! What's changed?
The old Ideal Standard boiler was replaced last week with a Bosch System-i type and the system is now pressurised to 1.5bar, to my surprise now all the HR92's noise has reduced so much they are barely audible.
So, the radiators used to be under no discernible water pressure maybe 0.5bar from the header/expansion tank, this has now been removed and the new system is pressurised from the mains water pressure to 1.75bar.
My theory is the radiators acted as a sound amplifier and noise from the HR92's was conducted through the radiator body to the walls which then moved and amplified the sound, but now under pressure the radiators don't move. The towel radiators never gave out any noise from the HR92.
Therefore an unintended consequence of a boiler change has provided a significant reduction in HR actuation noise, but they no-longer wake me in the morning and so I've put the alarm back on and the silence is spooky.
HR92 actuation noise was considered in this household (by XYL) to be a problem, but now the noise has all but gone! What's changed?
The old Ideal Standard boiler was replaced last week with a Bosch System-i type and the system is now pressurised to 1.5bar, to my surprise now all the HR92's noise has reduced so much they are barely audible.
So, the radiators used to be under no discernible water pressure maybe 0.5bar from the header/expansion tank, this has now been removed and the new system is pressurised from the mains water pressure to 1.75bar.
My theory is the radiators acted as a sound amplifier and noise from the HR92's was conducted through the radiator body to the walls which then moved and amplified the sound, but now under pressure the radiators don't move. The towel radiators never gave out any noise from the HR92.
Therefore an unintended consequence of a boiler change has provided a significant reduction in HR actuation noise, but they no-longer wake me in the morning and so I've put the alarm back on and the silence is spooky.
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