AFAICS it isn't possible to edit the schedule via the TCC web interface so that leaves doing it directly on the controller or via the phone App. Is there a way to do it via a web browser?
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Setting the Evohome schedule - via a web interface?
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Cortex 'uptime'
The batch files that run when our Cortex server starts up write entries in a log file recording the date and time of each event; over the years this has proven useful when investigating problems, such as when the server reboots unexpectedly.
Recently I decided that it would be helpful to have the latest boot date/time available on a Notice Board rather than having to login to the server and view the logfile. So I started to look at ways of presenting the information so that I could get it via the app on my Android device. I realised that the ideal would be to present a built-in object that held the Cortex start date/time, but that doesn't seem to exist, so I had to construct something similar myself.
I modified a batch file to write the boot date and time to a file 'index.html' in JSON format, set-up a copy of the TinyWeb web server on port 8000 and added a Cortex Web Client API object to read the website at 127.0.0.1 - I now had the information I wanted in a Cortex object that I could present on the Notice Board.
The index.html file looks like this:
{
"At":"17:40:47 on 10-03-2019"
}
When decoded this gives me a Cortex object called "Server Boot At Response 0" under "Web API Client".
I have added the entry 'Server booted at <Web API Client.Server Boot At Response 0=$0>' to "All Display" and connected this to "Martin Notice Board - New Message in" to display a formatted message - it is triggered by the 'Server Boot Finished' signal from the 'Web API Client'.
In order to force the message to be sticky on the Notice Board I send an event to the Web Client API Server Boot Send trigger every 15 minutes.
Although this seems to be working as desired I do have a couple of questions:
1) Is there an easier way of doing this?
2) Is there an existing Cortex object that I could have used instead?
Recently I decided that it would be helpful to have the latest boot date/time available on a Notice Board rather than having to login to the server and view the logfile. So I started to look at ways of presenting the information so that I could get it via the app on my Android device. I realised that the ideal would be to present a built-in object that held the Cortex start date/time, but that doesn't seem to exist, so I had to construct something similar myself.
I modified a batch file to write the boot date and time to a file 'index.html' in JSON format, set-up a copy of the TinyWeb web server on port 8000 and added a Cortex Web Client API object to read the website at 127.0.0.1 - I now had the information I wanted in a Cortex object that I could present on the Notice Board.
The index.html file looks like this:
{
"At":"17:40:47 on 10-03-2019"
}
When decoded this gives me a Cortex object called "Server Boot At Response 0" under "Web API Client".
I have added the entry 'Server booted at <Web API Client.Server Boot At Response 0=$0>' to "All Display" and connected this to "Martin Notice Board - New Message in" to display a formatted message - it is triggered by the 'Server Boot Finished' signal from the 'Web API Client'.
In order to force the message to be sticky on the Notice Board I send an event to the Web Client API Server Boot Send trigger every 15 minutes.
Although this seems to be working as desired I do have a couple of questions:
1) Is there an easier way of doing this?
2) Is there an existing Cortex object that I could have used instead?
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Increasing HR92 wireless range by adding a cable
A while ago I think there was a discussion about plugging an ethernet cable into a port on the HR92 to increase range, but I can't find the discussion. I have one rad which is quite a way from its controller and generates comms faults so am wondering whether it's worth trying adding a cable. Has anyone experimented with orientation or length?
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Logging Evohome Heat Demand
Hi all,
I have an original (v1) evohome with the RFG100 gateway. I have Domoticz set up (via web API) on a constantly-on computer and can log set points, room temperatures etc.
I am wondering what is the easiest way for me to log which rooms are calling for heat demand. I understand this may only be possible by adding an HGI80, is that correct? Or would upgrading to the new Evohome WiFi model give this functionality?
Thanks!
Gareth
I have an original (v1) evohome with the RFG100 gateway. I have Domoticz set up (via web API) on a constantly-on computer and can log set points, room temperatures etc.
I am wondering what is the easiest way for me to log which rooms are calling for heat demand. I understand this may only be possible by adding an HGI80, is that correct? Or would upgrading to the new Evohome WiFi model give this functionality?
Thanks!
Gareth
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Troubleshooting Room Overshooting HR92
I have had my Evohome system in for about 4 years now with no problems and I have reached the point where I have forgotten about it bar changing the batteries in the HR92s occasionally.
But I have started to perhaps have problems with my adult son's bedroom. It appears to be overshooting by quite a bit. There have also been times when I have gone into his room and he had manually turned the HR92 off but the radiator is still hot.
He has left it alone for a while though but this morning I have gone in after he has gone to work and the temp is 21c. The max setpoint is 17c for this morning with an overnight setpoint of 10c. I have just checked again and the HR92 temp is now falling, showing currently 19.5c.
I have attached some screenshots of the schedule and SmartThings logs for overnight but not quite sure where to start troubleshooting otherwise I was thinking of buying a DT92.
E Friday Schedule.jpgE Saturday Schedule.jpgE SmartThings 1.jpgE SmartThings 2.jpgE SmartThings 3.jpg
But I have started to perhaps have problems with my adult son's bedroom. It appears to be overshooting by quite a bit. There have also been times when I have gone into his room and he had manually turned the HR92 off but the radiator is still hot.
He has left it alone for a while though but this morning I have gone in after he has gone to work and the temp is 21c. The max setpoint is 17c for this morning with an overnight setpoint of 10c. I have just checked again and the HR92 temp is now falling, showing currently 19.5c.
I have attached some screenshots of the schedule and SmartThings logs for overnight but not quite sure where to start troubleshooting otherwise I was thinking of buying a DT92.
E Friday Schedule.jpgE Saturday Schedule.jpgE SmartThings 1.jpgE SmartThings 2.jpgE SmartThings 3.jpg
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Mass communication loss overnight?
I came down this morning to a communication failure on the EvoHome controller. When I cleared the message, most (not all) of my zones, including hot water, are now reading '--' for the temperature.
Took a look at the fault log and lots of communication loss at about 2:30 last night. A few have returned, most have not.
I had breakfast, took another look and 4 more actuators had restored communication so, having to go to work, I hoped the rest would return. Looking at the app, I can see they haven't - it also seems to have overrides indicated on the zones that are back up and running so I've reset these remotely (probably!) but see that one of these hasn't 'stuck' and has gone back up to 20.
I also note it's been calling for heat overnight. So when communication was lost, it seemed to think heat was required even though all the valves should've been shut down for the night :mad:
Nothing weird happened during the night to the best of my knowledge. Normal day, no electricals on to speak of overnight. Anyone seen this or got any thoughts on getting it back and running with minimal disruption? Don't want to have to sit and rebind everything as nothing has changed, but not sure how to get it to pick everything up again?
Guess I'll be working at home this afternoon to sort this mess out. :(
Took a look at the fault log and lots of communication loss at about 2:30 last night. A few have returned, most have not.
I had breakfast, took another look and 4 more actuators had restored communication so, having to go to work, I hoped the rest would return. Looking at the app, I can see they haven't - it also seems to have overrides indicated on the zones that are back up and running so I've reset these remotely (probably!) but see that one of these hasn't 'stuck' and has gone back up to 20.
I also note it's been calling for heat overnight. So when communication was lost, it seemed to think heat was required even though all the valves should've been shut down for the night :mad:
Nothing weird happened during the night to the best of my knowledge. Normal day, no electricals on to speak of overnight. Anyone seen this or got any thoughts on getting it back and running with minimal disruption? Don't want to have to sit and rebind everything as nothing has changed, but not sure how to get it to pick everything up again?
Guess I'll be working at home this afternoon to sort this mess out. :(
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OpenTherm Oil Fired Boilers
This may be a bit off topic, but perhaps someone can offer guidance?
Just moved house, and the oil boiler will need replacing (oil fired range is doing our head in!)
In our last place we had Evohome, and I would like to add that to the new place. It seems that having an OpenTherm capable boiler would be a good idea, but there seems little info out there on what oil fired boilers support this standard.... I have a suspicion that none will, but if anyone can enlighten....
Thanks!
Just moved house, and the oil boiler will need replacing (oil fired range is doing our head in!)
In our last place we had Evohome, and I would like to add that to the new place. It seems that having an OpenTherm capable boiler would be a good idea, but there seems little info out there on what oil fired boilers support this standard.... I have a suspicion that none will, but if anyone can enlighten....
Thanks!
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Rads & UFH with zoned pipes
Hi,
Last year we had an extension built which included 3 UFH zones. The existing part of the house is traditional rads.
The setup is:
BDR91 boiler control (Worcester combi)
HR92s on rads
HCC80r controlling actuators on the manifold for the UFH zones
Evohome is set up with each radiator and UFH zone as their own zone, which we can control individually. This is great, and what we were aiming for.
After the winter and getting used to the setup, we found we generally don't have the radiators on much, and the UFH zones tick over, keeping themselves at whatever temp we've set.
What is wrong with our setup is that all the heating is on a single pipe circuit. This means that each time the UFH calls for a bit of heat, the radiator pipes in the house fill up with very hot water, which is unused because none of the radiators are on. Firstly this is annoying because they creak like anything as they expand and contract in the middle of the night. Secondly this is inefficient as we only want to heat the UFH.
I realise what was missed out during our install was a zone value to separate the rads from the UFH. Ideally what we want is for some logic/control in the Evohome system to say "if any of the radiator zones are on then open a zone value, otherwise have it closed".
However, I've contacted Honeywell to ask how we could achieve this and they've basically said we can't! If we attached a second BDR91 to the system to control a zone valve then we would lose control of the individual radiators. Which we don't want.
I have two horrible ideas, but any further thoughts would be most welcome.
1. Put a manual zone valve in the rad circuit. During most of the year we would leave this closed so CH water only flows round the UFH pipes, being more efficient. During the depth of winter we open the manual value to bring the radiators into play. This option is rubbish - we would have to remember to turn the manual valve on and off, and would have no ability to turn any radiators on remotely/scheduled if the manual value wasn't open. It would also mean that when the valve is open, if only the UFH wants heat then hot water would still circulate round the radiator cicruit, wasting energy and making the pipes creak.
2. Setup a new 'Radiators' zone on Evohome which would be an Electric Heating zone (so that it doesn't fire up the boiler) with a second BDR91 to open and close a motorised zone value on the radiator circuit. I think we'd also need another thermostat. Most of the time this new zone would be set to some very low temperature, meaning the zone value was closed. If we then want the radiators to run we would edit the schedule or override for that radiator in Evohome, AND set the new 'Radiators' zone to some high temperature, causing Evohome to open the zone value and allowing CH water to flow to the rads. This is pretty horrible, but it's the best I can come up with for now.
Can anyone suggest a better approach please?
Last year we had an extension built which included 3 UFH zones. The existing part of the house is traditional rads.
The setup is:
BDR91 boiler control (Worcester combi)
HR92s on rads
HCC80r controlling actuators on the manifold for the UFH zones
Evohome is set up with each radiator and UFH zone as their own zone, which we can control individually. This is great, and what we were aiming for.
After the winter and getting used to the setup, we found we generally don't have the radiators on much, and the UFH zones tick over, keeping themselves at whatever temp we've set.
What is wrong with our setup is that all the heating is on a single pipe circuit. This means that each time the UFH calls for a bit of heat, the radiator pipes in the house fill up with very hot water, which is unused because none of the radiators are on. Firstly this is annoying because they creak like anything as they expand and contract in the middle of the night. Secondly this is inefficient as we only want to heat the UFH.
I realise what was missed out during our install was a zone value to separate the rads from the UFH. Ideally what we want is for some logic/control in the Evohome system to say "if any of the radiator zones are on then open a zone value, otherwise have it closed".
However, I've contacted Honeywell to ask how we could achieve this and they've basically said we can't! If we attached a second BDR91 to the system to control a zone valve then we would lose control of the individual radiators. Which we don't want.
I have two horrible ideas, but any further thoughts would be most welcome.
1. Put a manual zone valve in the rad circuit. During most of the year we would leave this closed so CH water only flows round the UFH pipes, being more efficient. During the depth of winter we open the manual value to bring the radiators into play. This option is rubbish - we would have to remember to turn the manual valve on and off, and would have no ability to turn any radiators on remotely/scheduled if the manual value wasn't open. It would also mean that when the valve is open, if only the UFH wants heat then hot water would still circulate round the radiator cicruit, wasting energy and making the pipes creak.
2. Setup a new 'Radiators' zone on Evohome which would be an Electric Heating zone (so that it doesn't fire up the boiler) with a second BDR91 to open and close a motorised zone value on the radiator circuit. I think we'd also need another thermostat. Most of the time this new zone would be set to some very low temperature, meaning the zone value was closed. If we then want the radiators to run we would edit the schedule or override for that radiator in Evohome, AND set the new 'Radiators' zone to some high temperature, causing Evohome to open the zone value and allowing CH water to flow to the rads. This is pretty horrible, but it's the best I can come up with for now.
Can anyone suggest a better approach please?
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Evo Home has lost the plot.
Last week I had to re bind my Evo home to the BDR91's. I followed the video again, so Guided Installation, added the Hot water sensor, then the BDR 91 ( 5 sec press slow flash, then 10 sec press fast flash to delete any old bindings) and finally the 2 valve part (again 5 sec press slow flash, then 10 sec press fast flash to delete any old bindings).
Everything works as it should, I have heating and hot water all good, however at 1pm everyday I get an error about lost Comms to the Boiler Relay.
Its clearly got bound somehow but ive deleted the BDR91's as above and still get same error......
Any suggestions please ?
Many thanks,
FLY
Everything works as it should, I have heating and hot water all good, however at 1pm everyday I get an error about lost Comms to the Boiler Relay.
Its clearly got bound somehow but ive deleted the BDR91's as above and still get same error......
Any suggestions please ?
Many thanks,
FLY
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Confused about Evohome and new boiler
I have had an Evohome kit for a few years and have had no problems with it until we recently had our boiler replaced from a Grant Oil Combi to a new Worcester Greenstar Heatslave II Oil Combi and now it seems like both the boiler and evohome have a mind of their own.
I am noticing that often the BDR91 relay will show a green light and the boiler demand light will be on but the boiler is not firing or sending any heat to the radiators, this can go on for up to an hour or more and causes the room temperature to drop a few degrees below the set temperature. When the boiler does eventually fire the BDR91 sometimes clicks off for a few seconds then back on which seems to make it worse because the boiler then stops again for a long period. The rooms all heat up fine in the mornings and evening it just seems to be a problem maintaining the level.
I have also seen the green relay light come on for a few minutes then go off when the heating should be off i.e all rooms have set points a couple of degrees below room temp.
We have had our installer back and he has thoroughly tested the boiler but doesnt believe it is at fault. He advised us there was low current from the relay and we have since replaced the relay with a new BDR91 unit but this doesnt seem to have made any difference.
I have factory reset the controller and this has the default 6 cycle rate and 1 min on time.
I appreciate the description is somewhat non specific but wondered if anyone can advise if any of this seems normal and if not whether this is likely to be the evohome or the boiler causing the issue?
Chris
I am noticing that often the BDR91 relay will show a green light and the boiler demand light will be on but the boiler is not firing or sending any heat to the radiators, this can go on for up to an hour or more and causes the room temperature to drop a few degrees below the set temperature. When the boiler does eventually fire the BDR91 sometimes clicks off for a few seconds then back on which seems to make it worse because the boiler then stops again for a long period. The rooms all heat up fine in the mornings and evening it just seems to be a problem maintaining the level.
I have also seen the green relay light come on for a few minutes then go off when the heating should be off i.e all rooms have set points a couple of degrees below room temp.
We have had our installer back and he has thoroughly tested the boiler but doesnt believe it is at fault. He advised us there was low current from the relay and we have since replaced the relay with a new BDR91 unit but this doesnt seem to have made any difference.
I have factory reset the controller and this has the default 6 cycle rate and 1 min on time.
I appreciate the description is somewhat non specific but wondered if anyone can advise if any of this seems normal and if not whether this is likely to be the evohome or the boiler causing the issue?
Chris
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New Evohome Setup - Few questions
Hi all,
Looking for some pointers on the most efficient way of setting up my evohome system.
Items that i have bought are:
1 x Evohome Controller
10 x HR92's
1 x Hot Water Kit
1 x HCC80R UFH controller
4 x T87RF Wireless thermostats
1 x BDR91 Wireless Relay Box
I have a grant vortex bolier and an unvented hot water cylinder.
From what I understand, the HR92's, HCC80R, T97RF and Hot water kit all talk to the evohome controller.
Do I need two BDR91's along with two valves? One to control the Hot water and the other to control the radiators and UFH?
Looking for some pointers on the most efficient way of setting up my evohome system.
Items that i have bought are:
1 x Evohome Controller
10 x HR92's
1 x Hot Water Kit
1 x HCC80R UFH controller
4 x T87RF Wireless thermostats
1 x BDR91 Wireless Relay Box
I have a grant vortex bolier and an unvented hot water cylinder.
From what I understand, the HR92's, HCC80R, T97RF and Hot water kit all talk to the evohome controller.
Do I need two BDR91's along with two valves? One to control the Hot water and the other to control the radiators and UFH?
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Challenger Electricity Supplier - Octopus and their Agile tariff
Morning all,
Has anyone looked into or changed to Octopus as their energy supplier? They are a new supplier but came top of Which? review of the market last year. One of their tariffs is called Agile this has 30 minute pricing slots that follow the wholesale market so overnight if generation is high and consumption is low the cost of electricity could actually be negative (happened 4 times in 2018 and was below 2p / kwh 31 times). A home with lots of automation could probably make use of this for some good savings for things like the washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher.
The API appears to be fully documented and is based on REST endpoints (https://developer.octopus.energy/doc...#agile-octopus), they also have a IFTTT connector with pre-made connections for Philips Hue, Tado, WeMo, Nest, Sonos
Paul
Has anyone looked into or changed to Octopus as their energy supplier? They are a new supplier but came top of Which? review of the market last year. One of their tariffs is called Agile this has 30 minute pricing slots that follow the wholesale market so overnight if generation is high and consumption is low the cost of electricity could actually be negative (happened 4 times in 2018 and was below 2p / kwh 31 times). A home with lots of automation could probably make use of this for some good savings for things like the washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher.
The API appears to be fully documented and is based on REST endpoints (https://developer.octopus.energy/doc...#agile-octopus), they also have a IFTTT connector with pre-made connections for Philips Hue, Tado, WeMo, Nest, Sonos
Paul
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For Sale - Danfoss Thermoelectric Actuators
I have two Danfoss TWA-A NC thermo electric actuators for sale. I bought them a couple of years ago but never installed or used them.
They fit Danfoss RA Valve body and are rated at 24V AC/DC 2 Watts
Normally Closed (NC) and they open on the application of power.
Silent in operation !
Looking for £40.00 for the pair plus postage of £5.00
They fit Danfoss RA Valve body and are rated at 24V AC/DC 2 Watts
Normally Closed (NC) and they open on the application of power.
Silent in operation !
Looking for £40.00 for the pair plus postage of £5.00
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Honeywell security tag reader problem
Just a brief note on a problem I had with the tag reader (SPR-S8EZ).
The bottom right Technical status light illuminated when trying to set the alarm via the tag reader and the system didn't arm. Everything reported normal via the tc20e.total-connect.eu page, but only by deleting the reader from the system, popping the batteries and adding it back resolved the problem.
The system has been installed for at least a couple of years and it's the only problem I've had.
Not sure if anyone else has encountered the problem but just thought I'd relate the tale in case it proved useful to someone else.
The bottom right Technical status light illuminated when trying to set the alarm via the tag reader and the system didn't arm. Everything reported normal via the tc20e.total-connect.eu page, but only by deleting the reader from the system, popping the batteries and adding it back resolved the problem.
The system has been installed for at least a couple of years and it's the only problem I've had.
Not sure if anyone else has encountered the problem but just thought I'd relate the tale in case it proved useful to someone else.
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Connecting a Honeywell Lyric T6R to a Bosch 35cdi
Hopefully someone can help.
I have a Honeywell Lyric T6R Smart Thermostat (wireless) and trying to connect it correctly to my Worcester 35Cdi Combi Boiler.
The wiring diagram mentions connecting it , via A & B on Receiver Box tp T1 & T2 on the boiler, which I think means Ls & Lr (see B in photo )
Heat demand lights up on the receiver box but boiler doesn't fire up.
Is the diagram wrong or have I connected the wires to the wrong terminals on the boiler? I HAVE removed the jumper link bween Ls & Lr.
IMG_0300.jpg
I have a Honeywell Lyric T6R Smart Thermostat (wireless) and trying to connect it correctly to my Worcester 35Cdi Combi Boiler.
The wiring diagram mentions connecting it , via A & B on Receiver Box tp T1 & T2 on the boiler, which I think means Ls & Lr (see B in photo )
Heat demand lights up on the receiver box but boiler doesn't fire up.
Is the diagram wrong or have I connected the wires to the wrong terminals on the boiler? I HAVE removed the jumper link bween Ls & Lr.
IMG_0300.jpg
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Reed sensor for aluminium doors
I want to put reed sensors into my 'to be fitted' aluminium doors and wondered if anyone had any experience of this and if there was a particular type of switch which was better for this purpose?
Steve
Steve
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Recommendation installer in Milton keynes area
I have an evohome installed (late 2016) and have been having a few issues over the past year or so. It has generally worked ok, butits been a bit glitchy recently like the heating not turning on sometimes unless the hot water was on, and turning off when hot water went off, even though they are on different schedules. Its also died a few times but i have been able to revive it by leaving the power off to the brd91s for a while. However now its totally dead, and it wont work at all. I get the feeling that the system wasnt wired correctly, or just badly by the guy who put it in. Therefore would anyone be able to recommend anyone in my area, who has dealt with these systems before. There are plenty of heating types advertising around here, but there also seems to be so many numpties, which makes it hard to find someone good.
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For Sale - Various Z-Wave and other HA devices
Recently sent this out on the UKHA mailing list but figured I'd post it here too for those not on the list.
I'm clearing out my spares drawers, loft and garage of around 15 years of horded home automation stuff as I need the space and am no longer allowed to keep things "just in case"!
Not looking to make a huge amount of money off it all, any reasonable offers will be accepted, mostly just hoping to pass it on to a new home where it will get used and gain a bit of cash towards some long overdue non-HA related home improvements.
Lots of stuff now on eBay at https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/astalasagna and much, much more to be added over the coming weeks and months so worth checking back regularly.
Thanks for reading,
M
I'm clearing out my spares drawers, loft and garage of around 15 years of horded home automation stuff as I need the space and am no longer allowed to keep things "just in case"!
Not looking to make a huge amount of money off it all, any reasonable offers will be accepted, mostly just hoping to pass it on to a new home where it will get used and gain a bit of cash towards some long overdue non-HA related home improvements.
Lots of stuff now on eBay at https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/astalasagna and much, much more to be added over the coming weeks and months so worth checking back regularly.
Thanks for reading,
M
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Non Hubbed Google Dimmer Switch
Hi there, I am looking for some advice and hopefully this is the place.
I am in the process of redecorating my living room up here in sunny Scotland and have taken the opportunity before the plasterer comes in to make a few changes.
I have installed 9 LAP 4w LED downlighters into my roof and 2 sets of Simfonio Alexa LED Strip Lights - LED Lights Strip Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT, WiFi Smart Phone Wireless Controller - RGB LED Light Str that I will install so as to flood light down the walls from the top.
I was looking to install the Sonoff touch switches but it seems they do not have a dimmer function and that is definitely required and wondered if you could recommend a switch to make them both voice controlled via my Google Home? The Sonoff switch is perfect for me apart from not being able to dim and with 9 x 4w downlighters I sometimes need dimming.
I have at present one switch that just controls the roof downlighters a straight switch no dimmers. On the other side of the room I have another wall switch this time with 2 switches one that controls the wall LED Strips and the other is the second switch for the roof lights again no dimmer so that I can control the on and off function of the roof downlighter from either side of the room.
I am looking for something to control the roof downlighters via my google set up without having to install a hub the most simple non hubbed and reasonably priced ( hey Im from Greenock lol) switches
Im not asking much but hope you can help both me and my electrician as hes bloody good at his job but knows very little about this side of things and Im not far behind him learning bits as I go along.
Any help would be gratefully received thanks.
Regards,
David
I am in the process of redecorating my living room up here in sunny Scotland and have taken the opportunity before the plasterer comes in to make a few changes.
I have installed 9 LAP 4w LED downlighters into my roof and 2 sets of Simfonio Alexa LED Strip Lights - LED Lights Strip Compatible with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT, WiFi Smart Phone Wireless Controller - RGB LED Light Str that I will install so as to flood light down the walls from the top.
I was looking to install the Sonoff touch switches but it seems they do not have a dimmer function and that is definitely required and wondered if you could recommend a switch to make them both voice controlled via my Google Home? The Sonoff switch is perfect for me apart from not being able to dim and with 9 x 4w downlighters I sometimes need dimming.
I have at present one switch that just controls the roof downlighters a straight switch no dimmers. On the other side of the room I have another wall switch this time with 2 switches one that controls the wall LED Strips and the other is the second switch for the roof lights again no dimmer so that I can control the on and off function of the roof downlighter from either side of the room.
I am looking for something to control the roof downlighters via my google set up without having to install a hub the most simple non hubbed and reasonably priced ( hey Im from Greenock lol) switches
Im not asking much but hope you can help both me and my electrician as hes bloody good at his job but knows very little about this side of things and Im not far behind him learning bits as I go along.
Any help would be gratefully received thanks.
Regards,
David
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OpenTherm - LoRaWAN
Hi Everyone!
Has anyone attempted to send OpenTherm data via LoRaWAN?
We are running a POC using this technology to send Temperature & Humidity data from various properties. The range our gateway is covering is amazing. 10 mile radius easily achieved.
I am waiting for an Arduino OpenTherm shield to arrive. This setup has a WiFi addon. I'm hoping I can replace this for a LoRaWAN type. This would enable remote diagnostic data without any internet connection or SIM involved.
Dean
Has anyone attempted to send OpenTherm data via LoRaWAN?
We are running a POC using this technology to send Temperature & Humidity data from various properties. The range our gateway is covering is amazing. 10 mile radius easily achieved.
I am waiting for an Arduino OpenTherm shield to arrive. This setup has a WiFi addon. I'm hoping I can replace this for a LoRaWAN type. This would enable remote diagnostic data without any internet connection or SIM involved.
Dean
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