Hi, I have 12 HR92 in my house. One of them has stopped working. Batteries changed and it looks fine but doesnt turn (or make noise) when it should or control radiator at all. Anyone able to suggest any basic checks I can do to get to root cause please? I have checked pin on radiator moves ok and have bled it bit nothing has worked yet.. Many thanks..
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Evohome HR92 lights on but not working..
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Newish Installation trouble with one HR92
As above I had a new installation of Evohome in February this year. Its for heat only. There are 12 zones and each has only one HR92.
Generally, Ive been very happy with it. However, the lounge HR92 has now failed twice in the last fortnight. The valve has got 2 bars of battery displayed and it is displaying the temperature scheduled. The radiator and the room are cold. If I turn the dial all the way up to 35C or down to 6C, the motor does not turn. I have removed and reinserted the batteries and rebound and it is working again.
I had the same problem on two other radiators in the first week and I performed the same procedure. Since then they have worked flawlessly.
Any ideas?
Generally, Ive been very happy with it. However, the lounge HR92 has now failed twice in the last fortnight. The valve has got 2 bars of battery displayed and it is displaying the temperature scheduled. The radiator and the room are cold. If I turn the dial all the way up to 35C or down to 6C, the motor does not turn. I have removed and reinserted the batteries and rebound and it is working again.
I had the same problem on two other radiators in the first week and I performed the same procedure. Since then they have worked flawlessly.
Any ideas?
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Multiple electrical circuit energy consumption monitoring
Hi,
I'm looking for a product that will allow circuit by circuit, and possibly device level electricity consumption monitoring and reporting to an app/website for a UK domestic property. I have used an OWL for many years and find it useful for giving me an overall picture of my electrical energy consumption but what to get a more detailed breakdown of usage patterns.
For information, my property is all electric on a 3 phase supply, and includes a 3 phase 14kw boiler on a dual rate meter. I am also a qualified competent person so am more that capable of understanding and undertaking any electrical system changes.
Many thanks.
I'm looking for a product that will allow circuit by circuit, and possibly device level electricity consumption monitoring and reporting to an app/website for a UK domestic property. I have used an OWL for many years and find it useful for giving me an overall picture of my electrical energy consumption but what to get a more detailed breakdown of usage patterns.
For information, my property is all electric on a 3 phase supply, and includes a 3 phase 14kw boiler on a dual rate meter. I am also a qualified competent person so am more that capable of understanding and undertaking any electrical system changes.
Many thanks.
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"Binding problem" turned out to be problem with Fault Log
I thought people might find it useful to hear about my experience...
I bought my Evohome system 2.5 years ago. Followed the binding instructions carefully due to dire warnings on this site and elsewhere. All went fine.
Since then a couple of the HR92 have failed. One was chewed off by the dog (who is older and wiser now I hope). The other was damaged by water leaking from a defective TRV body.
As a "temporary" fix I just replaced them with the old TRV heads. The controller has shown a little warning triangle against both zones ever since.
Recently I had a new radiator installed, and the leaky TRV replaced. So finally got round to replacing the other two as well as adding an HR92 to the new rad,. I read advice on here about various ways to remove all traces of previous bindings (eg delete the zone; clear binding from any HR92 to be re-used etc etc.)
One of the HR92's bound fine to its new zone.
BUT the other two turned into a bit of a nightmare. I tried umpteen different ways but kept getting the same result - the binding process would appear to go absolutely fine, but then the little red triangle would immediately appear saying there was a comms error with the actuator. RF check was fine. Also the controller & HR92 seemed to communicate just fine (easy to test by changing target temperature). So the system actually worked ok - but I couldn't get rid of the pesky error symbols.
Today I rang up the Evohome Shop, and they helped me sort it out in just a few minutes...
Turns out the binding process was fine (as it appeared to be) - the problem lay in the fault log itself.
He suggested I clear the fault log and the error symbols instantly disappeared!
As I understand it the log contains FAULT records from when a problem occurs. Then if it automatically resolves the problem it will create a corresponding record (RECOVER? RESOLVE? I can't remember exactly what it said). If there is an unmatched FAULT in the log it will continue to display the warning symbol. This is a nice idea - unless it gets out of synch. I guess the problem was caused by me throwing the broken HR92's away but not clearing down the log. You would expect this to get tidied up when a zone is deleted - but somehow it got its knickers in a twist.
Anyway problem appears to be solved now!
I hope this helps save someone from the hassle and frustration I went through till 3am last night!
I bought my Evohome system 2.5 years ago. Followed the binding instructions carefully due to dire warnings on this site and elsewhere. All went fine.
Since then a couple of the HR92 have failed. One was chewed off by the dog (who is older and wiser now I hope). The other was damaged by water leaking from a defective TRV body.
As a "temporary" fix I just replaced them with the old TRV heads. The controller has shown a little warning triangle against both zones ever since.
Recently I had a new radiator installed, and the leaky TRV replaced. So finally got round to replacing the other two as well as adding an HR92 to the new rad,. I read advice on here about various ways to remove all traces of previous bindings (eg delete the zone; clear binding from any HR92 to be re-used etc etc.)
One of the HR92's bound fine to its new zone.
BUT the other two turned into a bit of a nightmare. I tried umpteen different ways but kept getting the same result - the binding process would appear to go absolutely fine, but then the little red triangle would immediately appear saying there was a comms error with the actuator. RF check was fine. Also the controller & HR92 seemed to communicate just fine (easy to test by changing target temperature). So the system actually worked ok - but I couldn't get rid of the pesky error symbols.
Today I rang up the Evohome Shop, and they helped me sort it out in just a few minutes...
Turns out the binding process was fine (as it appeared to be) - the problem lay in the fault log itself.
He suggested I clear the fault log and the error symbols instantly disappeared!
As I understand it the log contains FAULT records from when a problem occurs. Then if it automatically resolves the problem it will create a corresponding record (RECOVER? RESOLVE? I can't remember exactly what it said). If there is an unmatched FAULT in the log it will continue to display the warning symbol. This is a nice idea - unless it gets out of synch. I guess the problem was caused by me throwing the broken HR92's away but not clearing down the log. You would expect this to get tidied up when a zone is deleted - but somehow it got its knickers in a twist.
Anyway problem appears to be solved now!
I hope this helps save someone from the hassle and frustration I went through till 3am last night!
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Monitoring water usage, any suggestions?
Hi
I'm looking at possible (inexpensive) ways to monitor realtime, or as close to realtime, water usage as possible, but so far the cheapest solutions seem to be £300+ devices which don't seem to offer open access to either an API or way to scrape the data & ingest it into a time-series database.
We do have a 'smart' water meter fitted, but I use the term 'smart' extremely loosely. It's a Diehl iZAR RC i W, but this was fitted by the water company & as such, I have no access to any data from it other than a 'monthly' summary 12 months down the line when they read the meter. Also, if I was to continuously poll the meter (if that was even possible) the built in battery would soon run out.
As for inexpensive, the £300+ solutions I've seen are things like Flo, Fluid, Belkin Phyn, all mostly marketed in the states, but are ridiculously expensive!
However, one idea is to fit a secondary meter within the property, which has a pule rate of 1 pulse/litre. Looking at it, something like this may be suitable:
https://www.pipestock.com/meters-gau...jet-cold-water
I could then hook up an Arduino which would record the pulses & feed back consumption to a time series db (Influxdb in my case) which would give me pretty reliable visibility.
I've seen a few online pages pointing to this solution, but just wondering if anyone on here has done something similar?
Cheers
I'm looking at possible (inexpensive) ways to monitor realtime, or as close to realtime, water usage as possible, but so far the cheapest solutions seem to be £300+ devices which don't seem to offer open access to either an API or way to scrape the data & ingest it into a time-series database.
We do have a 'smart' water meter fitted, but I use the term 'smart' extremely loosely. It's a Diehl iZAR RC i W, but this was fitted by the water company & as such, I have no access to any data from it other than a 'monthly' summary 12 months down the line when they read the meter. Also, if I was to continuously poll the meter (if that was even possible) the built in battery would soon run out.
As for inexpensive, the £300+ solutions I've seen are things like Flo, Fluid, Belkin Phyn, all mostly marketed in the states, but are ridiculously expensive!
However, one idea is to fit a secondary meter within the property, which has a pule rate of 1 pulse/litre. Looking at it, something like this may be suitable:
https://www.pipestock.com/meters-gau...jet-cold-water
I could then hook up an Arduino which would record the pulses & feed back consumption to a time series db (Influxdb in my case) which would give me pretty reliable visibility.
I've seen a few online pages pointing to this solution, but just wondering if anyone on here has done something similar?
Cheers
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Optimised start and UFH
So I finally got round to turning on my UFH a few weeks ago, and it seems like the optimised start isnt working. Ive had to adjust the on time manually.
Ive got one large room, with two loops, controlled by a zone valve and BDR91.
Anyone come across this before?
Ive got one large room, with two loops, controlled by a zone valve and BDR91.
Anyone come across this before?
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Gateway power supply
Hi everyone,
I connected the wrong power supply to the RFG100 gateway and now it no longer turns on.
What can I do to repair?
I connected the wrong power supply to the RFG100 gateway and now it no longer turns on.
What can I do to repair?
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Design fault with Honeywell HR92 ?
I have just found out to my cost (new HR92 needed) that if your radiator valve presents horizontally to the TRV, then if you have any sort of small leak from your radiator valve, any liquid travels straight into the HR92 housing and fries the electrics. Mine was a really small leak, (eggcup worth on the floor), but still enough to kill the HR92.
I am having the valve modified to present to the TRV vertically as I don't want to keep buying new HR92's!
Could Honeywell consider for future engineering plans please?
I am having the valve modified to present to the TRV vertically as I don't want to keep buying new HR92's!
Could Honeywell consider for future engineering plans please?
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Cycle rate - Failsafe - Min On Time
On my controller with firmware 02.00.17.03 I have no FAILSAFE, MIN ON TIME, CYCLE COUNT.
My system is setup with no boiler control - Should I expect these parameters to be there?
My system is setup with no boiler control - Should I expect these parameters to be there?
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please can I have some help - cast iron radiators
I have some beautiful refurbished cast iron radiators.
they were supplied with TRVs which for love nor money I can't find an adaptor to. The one on the left is what it was supplied with. I bought the one on the right as it matches the colour and will fit my HR 92 but the pipes going into the valve are different sizes. what do I do?
Or can I adapt the one on the left in some different way.
please please help, tearing my hair out!
RW57781399281__9331B573-CC1A-499E-9B9B-0EA43F0A4589.jpg
they were supplied with TRVs which for love nor money I can't find an adaptor to. The one on the left is what it was supplied with. I bought the one on the right as it matches the colour and will fit my HR 92 but the pipes going into the valve are different sizes. what do I do?
Or can I adapt the one on the left in some different way.
please please help, tearing my hair out!
RW57781399281__9331B573-CC1A-499E-9B9B-0EA43F0A4589.jpg
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Hello! checking in after a while away
Hello! checking in after a while away
Now we are Resideo rather than Honeywell but still marketing Honeywell Home branded controls including evohome
evohome is still very much the flagship product and continues to get updates as required to keep it working with the latest phones and operating systems
We engage with our pro installer customers on a more regular basis than retail customers as that is our prime route to market - though expert trained installers - so if you need help with installing or upgrades we would recommend contacting one of our 'connected specialists'
we recently released the 'evohome Essentials Packs' including 6 off the more recent HR91 smart TRVs and we continue to research and benchmark against the competition
so if you have any suggestions or support requirements please contact our support teams, we would love to hear your feedback
Now we are Resideo rather than Honeywell but still marketing Honeywell Home branded controls including evohome
evohome is still very much the flagship product and continues to get updates as required to keep it working with the latest phones and operating systems
We engage with our pro installer customers on a more regular basis than retail customers as that is our prime route to market - though expert trained installers - so if you need help with installing or upgrades we would recommend contacting one of our 'connected specialists'
we recently released the 'evohome Essentials Packs' including 6 off the more recent HR91 smart TRVs and we continue to research and benchmark against the competition
so if you have any suggestions or support requirements please contact our support teams, we would love to hear your feedback
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Raspberry Pi OpenTherm Weather compensation project
Those of you who follow my long rambling posts know I occasionally like to go on about the theoretical "ideal" world of combining OpenTherm control from Evohome with Weather compensation based on outside temperature measurement.
Many of you are also probably aware that very few (if any ?) boilers actually allow the simultaneous use of weather compensation and OpenTherm - most just disable the weather compensation module/feature if under OpenTherm control, and even if they didn't they would probably just "truncate" the maximum flow temperature requested by OpenTherm rather than "scaling" the requested temperature, which I believe would give better control. And of course many Boilers don't even allow you to set the maximum flow temperature when controlled via Evohome OpenTherm, making even OpenTherm itself unusable.
I also have an ancient boiler under TPI control and am not likely to have an OpenTherm boiler any time soon, so the limitations of both no weather compensation and TPI frustrate me somewhat. For example temperature control in times of very low demand (night time bedroom radiators for example) is poor because TPI has such a long response lag compared to OpenTherm. If an HR92 calls for a bit more heat with OpenTherm the boiler is immediately commanded to a higher flow temperature and the room starts to warm up. With TPI the heat output of the boiler is only averaged over a 10 minute period so response is very, very slow when going from one small heat demand to another slightly different small demand.
So I hatched a crazy and somewhat ambitious plan to solve all of these problems at once without changing boiler - build my own Raspberry Pi based OpenTherm slave and weather compensation system! :cool: It's quite a while since I've done a hardware/software project start to finish so even though it's completely over the top I thought it would make a fun project and a great test bed to test some of my theories about weather compensation and so on...
So here is the basic outline:
A Raspberry Pi 2 running Raspbian Stretch is the heart of the system. Attached to the Pi is the following hardware:
1) A 5" touch screen for user interface, to be mounted on the kitchen wall where my BDR91 currently is. I haven't decided exactly which screen yet but probably something like this 800x480 HDMI screen:
https://www.modmypi.com/raspberry-pi...clear-case-usb
Using HDMI instead of the DSI interface on the Pi makes it easier to have the screen and the Pi separated somewhat - as the Pi will have some USB devices connected sticking out the sides I may want to hide it away in the boiler closet and just run HDMI/USB/power to the screen through the existing hole in the wall the BDR91 currently uses.
2) An OpenTherm interface that can do the heavy lifting of implementing the OpenTherm protocol for me and just allow me to poll it for information. I haven't got very far into researching this part of the project yet, this may be a candidate:
https://www.nodo-shop.nl/en/openther...m-gateway.html
One thing I'm unsure about is this interface is intended to be a "passthrough" device to be inserted between the thermostat (master) and boiler, (slave) only modifying some parameters on the fly, however I would require the interface (or software in the Pi) to actually implement a full generic OpenTherm slave for the Honeywell OpenTherm bridge to talk to, and then I pull data from the interface such as requested flow temperature from the Evohome and use this information in my software running on the Pi. As it's a programmable PIC it seems like it's at least theoretically possible.
3) A wireless outdoor temperature sensor. Last Christmas Santa bought me one of these:
https://www.bresser.de/en/Weather-Ti...er-5-in-1.html
As it's mounted on a longish pole on top of my garage and has a proper sun guard for the temperature sensor it does a very good job of getting true outside temperature and is also very fast to respond to changing conditions. The unit transmits to the receiver/display unit on 868.3Mhz. I wondered if it would be possible to somehow receive and decode that signal and it turns out it's not actually that difficult! :D
First you need an 868Mhz receiver or an SDR (software defined radio) that can tune to that frequency range. Completely by accident I discovered that an RTL based USB DVB tuner that I have kicking around not being used is capable of being turned into a full software defined radio that is suitable for the task. The one I have is similar to this one, although mine is black and doesn't actually say SDR anywhere on it:
https://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Astrometa_DVB-T2
The driver is already present in Raspbian and you only need to install the rtl-sdr package to use it as an SDR.
The next piece of the puzzle is some software to operate the SDR and attempt to decode the signal from the weather station. A little bit of digging turned up an excellent project called rtl_433 which despite the name also supports 868Mhz devices:
https://github.com/merbanan/rtl_433
This works with rtl-sdr and has a long laundry list of supported outdoor sensors including my Bresser unit. In fact it also supports an older weather station I have as well! If you already have an outdoor wireless weather station sensor chances are this software will support it. I set this up running as a systemd service and I configured it to give json formatted output that looks like this:
The sensor provides other information like wind speed and direction, humidity etc but I won't be using those. I'm currently running this on my existing munin evohome graphing system in place of the weather.com weather report temperature as a test and it's working great, and unlike the report which only changes every few hours and is to the nearest 1C, my own sensor updates about every 30 seconds and has a 0.1C resolution...
4) One wire protocol temperature sensors - one for the flow pipe on the boiler immediately where it comes out of the heat exchanger and one on the return line. While I technically only need the flow temperature it's so easy to add additional one wire sensors, so why not measure the return as well for more information ? I currently use an external digital flow temperature thermostat on my boiler with the sensor strapped to the flow pipe (and built in analog stat turned right up) so i would just add another sensor here.
5) Two GPIO controlled mains relays - one to replace the BDR91 to actually switch the boiler on and off, and a second "fail-safe" relay to switch the system back to the regular external flow thermostat that is there now in the case that the Pi crashes, won't boot etc. I wouldn't want a software bug or crash to cause me to have no heating when I'm away from the house....
Pretty easy to do that really - you configure the fail-safe relay so that the default power state of the GPIO pin controlling it is that the relay is off - in that off mode the original digital thermostat is switched into circuit and controls the boiler. (As I would no longer have a boiler control BDR91 I would have to use the switches on the heating and hot water zone valves in this fail safe mode)
In the systemd service that starts the core logic that switches the boiler control relay you add an ExecStartPost that switches on the GPIO line for the fail-safe relay, switching control over to the Raspberry Pi. If the service crashes an ExecStopPost can switch the GPIO line back to put it back into failsafe mode again. So during development stopping the service would be enough to put the heating back into traditional control.
To allow for the situation where the device hard freezes I would enable the hardware watchdog in the Pi - after a forced reset the GPIO line will go back to default and turn off the fail-safe relay again. So the system should be 99% failsafe in the event that the Pi or software running on it malfunctions.
Many of you are also probably aware that very few (if any ?) boilers actually allow the simultaneous use of weather compensation and OpenTherm - most just disable the weather compensation module/feature if under OpenTherm control, and even if they didn't they would probably just "truncate" the maximum flow temperature requested by OpenTherm rather than "scaling" the requested temperature, which I believe would give better control. And of course many Boilers don't even allow you to set the maximum flow temperature when controlled via Evohome OpenTherm, making even OpenTherm itself unusable.
I also have an ancient boiler under TPI control and am not likely to have an OpenTherm boiler any time soon, so the limitations of both no weather compensation and TPI frustrate me somewhat. For example temperature control in times of very low demand (night time bedroom radiators for example) is poor because TPI has such a long response lag compared to OpenTherm. If an HR92 calls for a bit more heat with OpenTherm the boiler is immediately commanded to a higher flow temperature and the room starts to warm up. With TPI the heat output of the boiler is only averaged over a 10 minute period so response is very, very slow when going from one small heat demand to another slightly different small demand.
So I hatched a crazy and somewhat ambitious plan to solve all of these problems at once without changing boiler - build my own Raspberry Pi based OpenTherm slave and weather compensation system! :cool: It's quite a while since I've done a hardware/software project start to finish so even though it's completely over the top I thought it would make a fun project and a great test bed to test some of my theories about weather compensation and so on...
So here is the basic outline:
A Raspberry Pi 2 running Raspbian Stretch is the heart of the system. Attached to the Pi is the following hardware:
1) A 5" touch screen for user interface, to be mounted on the kitchen wall where my BDR91 currently is. I haven't decided exactly which screen yet but probably something like this 800x480 HDMI screen:
https://www.modmypi.com/raspberry-pi...clear-case-usb
Using HDMI instead of the DSI interface on the Pi makes it easier to have the screen and the Pi separated somewhat - as the Pi will have some USB devices connected sticking out the sides I may want to hide it away in the boiler closet and just run HDMI/USB/power to the screen through the existing hole in the wall the BDR91 currently uses.
2) An OpenTherm interface that can do the heavy lifting of implementing the OpenTherm protocol for me and just allow me to poll it for information. I haven't got very far into researching this part of the project yet, this may be a candidate:
https://www.nodo-shop.nl/en/openther...m-gateway.html
One thing I'm unsure about is this interface is intended to be a "passthrough" device to be inserted between the thermostat (master) and boiler, (slave) only modifying some parameters on the fly, however I would require the interface (or software in the Pi) to actually implement a full generic OpenTherm slave for the Honeywell OpenTherm bridge to talk to, and then I pull data from the interface such as requested flow temperature from the Evohome and use this information in my software running on the Pi. As it's a programmable PIC it seems like it's at least theoretically possible.
3) A wireless outdoor temperature sensor. Last Christmas Santa bought me one of these:
https://www.bresser.de/en/Weather-Ti...er-5-in-1.html
As it's mounted on a longish pole on top of my garage and has a proper sun guard for the temperature sensor it does a very good job of getting true outside temperature and is also very fast to respond to changing conditions. The unit transmits to the receiver/display unit on 868.3Mhz. I wondered if it would be possible to somehow receive and decode that signal and it turns out it's not actually that difficult! :D
First you need an 868Mhz receiver or an SDR (software defined radio) that can tune to that frequency range. Completely by accident I discovered that an RTL based USB DVB tuner that I have kicking around not being used is capable of being turned into a full software defined radio that is suitable for the task. The one I have is similar to this one, although mine is black and doesn't actually say SDR anywhere on it:
https://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Astrometa_DVB-T2
The driver is already present in Raspbian and you only need to install the rtl-sdr package to use it as an SDR.
The next piece of the puzzle is some software to operate the SDR and attempt to decode the signal from the weather station. A little bit of digging turned up an excellent project called rtl_433 which despite the name also supports 868Mhz devices:
https://github.com/merbanan/rtl_433
This works with rtl-sdr and has a long laundry list of supported outdoor sensors including my Bresser unit. In fact it also supports an older weather station I have as well! If you already have an outdoor wireless weather station sensor chances are this software will support it. I set this up running as a systemd service and I configured it to give json formatted output that looks like this:
Code:
{"time" : "2019-04-25 12:45:06", "model" : "Bresser-5in1", "id" : 160, "temperature_C" : 15.000, "humidity" : 51, "wind_gust" : 1.400, "wind_speed" : 2.100, "wind_dir_deg" : 292.500, "rain_mm" : 62.400, "mic" : "CHECKSUM", "mod" : "FSK", "freq1" : 868.399, "freq2" : 868.276, "rssi" : -12.144, "snr" : 12.757, "noise" : -24.901}4) One wire protocol temperature sensors - one for the flow pipe on the boiler immediately where it comes out of the heat exchanger and one on the return line. While I technically only need the flow temperature it's so easy to add additional one wire sensors, so why not measure the return as well for more information ? I currently use an external digital flow temperature thermostat on my boiler with the sensor strapped to the flow pipe (and built in analog stat turned right up) so i would just add another sensor here.
5) Two GPIO controlled mains relays - one to replace the BDR91 to actually switch the boiler on and off, and a second "fail-safe" relay to switch the system back to the regular external flow thermostat that is there now in the case that the Pi crashes, won't boot etc. I wouldn't want a software bug or crash to cause me to have no heating when I'm away from the house....
Pretty easy to do that really - you configure the fail-safe relay so that the default power state of the GPIO pin controlling it is that the relay is off - in that off mode the original digital thermostat is switched into circuit and controls the boiler. (As I would no longer have a boiler control BDR91 I would have to use the switches on the heating and hot water zone valves in this fail safe mode)
In the systemd service that starts the core logic that switches the boiler control relay you add an ExecStartPost that switches on the GPIO line for the fail-safe relay, switching control over to the Raspberry Pi. If the service crashes an ExecStopPost can switch the GPIO line back to put it back into failsafe mode again. So during development stopping the service would be enough to put the heating back into traditional control.
To allow for the situation where the device hard freezes I would enable the hardware watchdog in the Pi - after a forced reset the GPIO line will go back to default and turn off the fail-safe relay again. So the system should be 99% failsafe in the event that the Pi or software running on it malfunctions.
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Radiator coming on outside its schedule
Although my bedroom radiator comes on as per its own schedule, it also comes on when it isn't meant to but some of my other radiators are scheduled to come on.
I started noticing this happening about a month ago, as I saw the temperature on the evohome controller going up for the bedroom when I knew that it wasn't scheduled to be on.
If I look on the bedroom HR92 when this happens it shows that the target temperature is 5 degrees, but you can feel the hot water coming through the pipe.
The only way I can get the radiator to go off when this happens is to take the Radiator Controller off and turning the black wheel further round. Usually this works, and the radiator then comes on as normal at it next scheduled time. However, on a few occasions it seems I've 'turned it too far' and then it doesn't come on when it is next scheduled too.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything I can do to fix it, or is it just a faulty radiator controller that needs returning. I only bought the system in December 2018, so it should be under warranty?
I started noticing this happening about a month ago, as I saw the temperature on the evohome controller going up for the bedroom when I knew that it wasn't scheduled to be on.
If I look on the bedroom HR92 when this happens it shows that the target temperature is 5 degrees, but you can feel the hot water coming through the pipe.
The only way I can get the radiator to go off when this happens is to take the Radiator Controller off and turning the black wheel further round. Usually this works, and the radiator then comes on as normal at it next scheduled time. However, on a few occasions it seems I've 'turned it too far' and then it doesn't come on when it is next scheduled too.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything I can do to fix it, or is it just a faulty radiator controller that needs returning. I only bought the system in December 2018, so it should be under warranty?
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Two Apps
There appear to be two apps for IOS for Evohome Heating & Security. One is the original one which has a thermometer and a padlock as icons on it and the other simply a capital H and calls itself Home/Total Connect. The former takes me to the usual app, the latter to the web page. I must have downloaded the latter from somewhere at some time but it does not appear in Apples App Store. No complaints, it does save me having to access via Safari!
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HR92 shows hourly battery failure on controller
One of my HR92s has started showing a battery low warning screen. When I check the faults page, there is often one battery warning approximately every hour (a minute or so different each time) yet the HR92 battery shows either 2 bars or 1 bar and the display is ok.
Could the warning be caused by failing battery contacts.?
The fact that the warnings seem to repeat virtually on the hour implies the HR92 is only failing presumably when the controller initiates an update to the controller and not when the HR92 checks in to the controller.
Are my assumptions above correct or is there some other cause for this. I have been seeing this warning for over two weeks and the battery stills seems good.
Thanks for any ideas.
Could the warning be caused by failing battery contacts.?
The fact that the warnings seem to repeat virtually on the hour implies the HR92 is only failing presumably when the controller initiates an update to the controller and not when the HR92 checks in to the controller.
Are my assumptions above correct or is there some other cause for this. I have been seeing this warning for over two weeks and the battery stills seems good.
Thanks for any ideas.
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Home Heating Automation Help Please
Hi Folks,
I've been reading this sub forum for a few weeks now and have just registered as I think I need some advice!
I should start by saying I'm UK based and have a BIOMASS system with a Thermal Store.
I'm in the process of having UFH fitted which will run along side my existing radiator circuits (that are not being upgraded to UFH). The way my system currently works is as follows:
It has 2 zones (or separate water flow/return pipes), one for all upstairs rads and one for all downstairs rads. There are 2 thermostats, one in each zone, which simply provide a set of open/closed no-volt contacts to my boiler/control. When the thermostat calls for heat, contacts close, boiler 'reads' this and turns on the circulating pump (which also has weather compensation so flow temp is dependant on outside temp, generally around 50 deg C). Rads have manual TRVs on them. My house is 1 room wide, 4 rooms long (so to speak), the flow/return/circ pumps are in one end of the house (lets call it room 1) and the rads are fitted in parallel (normal I think) to the flow/return pipes. Downstairs has rads in room 1 and 2 and will have UFH in rooms 3 and 4 (and the porch/wc). Upstairs is basically 4 beds, 1 bathroom, 1 landing and 1 en-suite/dressing room arranged as follows: radiators in bed 4/bathroom (above room 1 downstairs), bed 3, bed 2, the UFH will be fitted in bed 1 and ensuite (above room 4 downstairs).
My UFH manifold and circ pump will fit on the end of my rad flow return pipes so when the UFH calls for heat, I need my rad circ pump to run, but when the rads call for heat, I don't want the UFH circ pump to run (assuming there is only 1 room at any time calling for heat). If all rooms call for heat (or more correctly if at least one rad AND at leat one UFH circuit calls for heat), both pumps will clearly need to run. They way I see this working is that I wire a 240v relay into my UFH pump which, when activated (by taking 240v from the UFH pump), will close the relay contacts which then provides the same signal as my existing rad thermostat, ie a set of closed contacts, to my boiler so the rad pump will also run, thus providing flow to the UFH pump/manifold etc. The relay contacts would be wired in parallel to my rad thermostat.
Having done lots of reading, I think the Honeywell Evohome system is the one that best fits my needs, with a compromise here and there. I've actually got more than 12 zones, so would ultimately need 2 controllers, but for now I can configure it as 12 or less zones by combining beds 2,3 and 4 as required.
So, onto the Honeywell Evohome system. Clearly I need HR91 or HR92s for each of my rads (I have 7 in total) which would then link to 2 BDR91s (1 for upstairs - 5 rads and 1 for downstairs - 2 rads). Here's my first problem. I think a BDR91 can only link to 4 HR91/92s? Is this correct? So would I simply need 2 BDR91s for upstairs? I need to control 5 UFH zones now and a 6th one in about 2-3 years time when we put an extension on - so can I get away with one HCC80R with an extension module but it wiring into 2 different manifolds (or sets of actuators) or would I need 2 as I need to run my 'relay' for upstairs/downstairs separately?
Then comes the question of room thermostats (or room temp control). Do the HR91/92s act as thermostats or do I need T87RFs for each room? I realise I'll need them in the UFH rooms as how else does the system know it's up to temp? I also realise I can use the main controller as a thermostat in one room. So for UFH control, the T87RFs link to the controller, which in turn links to the HCC80R which operates the UFH pump and zone actuators. For rads, the HR91/92s link to the controller which links to the BRD91s which then runs my rad pump. Have I got this right or made a right mess of things?
As with everything, a picture paints a thousand words, so hopefully attached is a room/pipe layout showing (most of) my system. For simplicity I've not shown all 5 rads upstairs or both rads downstairs, just an example and the existing bathroom is now bed 4 and the WC is the bathroom.
If not the Honeywell system, what other automated system can do this control? I'd like internet/app access but not essential, I don't need location detection and I don't have any other home automation for it to sync or interact with (and doubt I will). I'd prefer wireless where possible as some of the rooms are already decorated so I don't want to run wires.
Phew, that was a long first post! Hope you are still here! Thanks for any advice and help.
I've been reading this sub forum for a few weeks now and have just registered as I think I need some advice!
I should start by saying I'm UK based and have a BIOMASS system with a Thermal Store.
I'm in the process of having UFH fitted which will run along side my existing radiator circuits (that are not being upgraded to UFH). The way my system currently works is as follows:
It has 2 zones (or separate water flow/return pipes), one for all upstairs rads and one for all downstairs rads. There are 2 thermostats, one in each zone, which simply provide a set of open/closed no-volt contacts to my boiler/control. When the thermostat calls for heat, contacts close, boiler 'reads' this and turns on the circulating pump (which also has weather compensation so flow temp is dependant on outside temp, generally around 50 deg C). Rads have manual TRVs on them. My house is 1 room wide, 4 rooms long (so to speak), the flow/return/circ pumps are in one end of the house (lets call it room 1) and the rads are fitted in parallel (normal I think) to the flow/return pipes. Downstairs has rads in room 1 and 2 and will have UFH in rooms 3 and 4 (and the porch/wc). Upstairs is basically 4 beds, 1 bathroom, 1 landing and 1 en-suite/dressing room arranged as follows: radiators in bed 4/bathroom (above room 1 downstairs), bed 3, bed 2, the UFH will be fitted in bed 1 and ensuite (above room 4 downstairs).
My UFH manifold and circ pump will fit on the end of my rad flow return pipes so when the UFH calls for heat, I need my rad circ pump to run, but when the rads call for heat, I don't want the UFH circ pump to run (assuming there is only 1 room at any time calling for heat). If all rooms call for heat (or more correctly if at least one rad AND at leat one UFH circuit calls for heat), both pumps will clearly need to run. They way I see this working is that I wire a 240v relay into my UFH pump which, when activated (by taking 240v from the UFH pump), will close the relay contacts which then provides the same signal as my existing rad thermostat, ie a set of closed contacts, to my boiler so the rad pump will also run, thus providing flow to the UFH pump/manifold etc. The relay contacts would be wired in parallel to my rad thermostat.
Having done lots of reading, I think the Honeywell Evohome system is the one that best fits my needs, with a compromise here and there. I've actually got more than 12 zones, so would ultimately need 2 controllers, but for now I can configure it as 12 or less zones by combining beds 2,3 and 4 as required.
So, onto the Honeywell Evohome system. Clearly I need HR91 or HR92s for each of my rads (I have 7 in total) which would then link to 2 BDR91s (1 for upstairs - 5 rads and 1 for downstairs - 2 rads). Here's my first problem. I think a BDR91 can only link to 4 HR91/92s? Is this correct? So would I simply need 2 BDR91s for upstairs? I need to control 5 UFH zones now and a 6th one in about 2-3 years time when we put an extension on - so can I get away with one HCC80R with an extension module but it wiring into 2 different manifolds (or sets of actuators) or would I need 2 as I need to run my 'relay' for upstairs/downstairs separately?
Then comes the question of room thermostats (or room temp control). Do the HR91/92s act as thermostats or do I need T87RFs for each room? I realise I'll need them in the UFH rooms as how else does the system know it's up to temp? I also realise I can use the main controller as a thermostat in one room. So for UFH control, the T87RFs link to the controller, which in turn links to the HCC80R which operates the UFH pump and zone actuators. For rads, the HR91/92s link to the controller which links to the BRD91s which then runs my rad pump. Have I got this right or made a right mess of things?
As with everything, a picture paints a thousand words, so hopefully attached is a room/pipe layout showing (most of) my system. For simplicity I've not shown all 5 rads upstairs or both rads downstairs, just an example and the existing bathroom is now bed 4 and the WC is the bathroom.
If not the Honeywell system, what other automated system can do this control? I'd like internet/app access but not essential, I don't need location detection and I don't have any other home automation for it to sync or interact with (and doubt I will). I'd prefer wireless where possible as some of the rooms are already decorated so I don't want to run wires.
Phew, that was a long first post! Hope you are still here! Thanks for any advice and help.
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Simple question
Hi guys. I have just moved house and am experimenting with making my WiFi more usable. I have a virgin router in modem mode and a decent Netgear nighthawk supplying main WiFi.
I need to add an access point as its quite a solid house and not getting WiFi upstairss in some places. Do I need to add a specific brand? I have cat 5 laid to several locations so I can use a wired access point right? How do I make sure its all one continuous network?
Finally is there any issue using an old Apple AirPort Extreme I have and plug it into my router to create a privately network for some smart home stuff eg ring so its not competing for bandwidth?
With thanks!
I need to add an access point as its quite a solid house and not getting WiFi upstairss in some places. Do I need to add a specific brand? I have cat 5 laid to several locations so I can use a wired access point right? How do I make sure its all one continuous network?
Finally is there any issue using an old Apple AirPort Extreme I have and plug it into my router to create a privately network for some smart home stuff eg ring so its not competing for bandwidth?
With thanks!
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Newbie - Looking for advice
Hello All
I am new to the Home Automation Scene and looking at getting my first system, I want to change all plug sockets / light switches and maybe even heating in the future, ideally want it to work over a phone all and Amazon Echo, I have been doing some research and seems to be that LightwaveRF and Z-Wave seem to be the main two (sorry if I am wrong!)
what system do people recommend and suggestions on what to go for?
after some research I have picked up that Z-wave works on a matrix system and Lightwave is a wi-fi but nothing more :(, I am from the UK and seems very limited on the light switches due to no neutral.
many thanks
I am new to the Home Automation Scene and looking at getting my first system, I want to change all plug sockets / light switches and maybe even heating in the future, ideally want it to work over a phone all and Amazon Echo, I have been doing some research and seems to be that LightwaveRF and Z-Wave seem to be the main two (sorry if I am wrong!)
what system do people recommend and suggestions on what to go for?
after some research I have picked up that Z-wave works on a matrix system and Lightwave is a wi-fi but nothing more :(, I am from the UK and seems very limited on the light switches due to no neutral.
many thanks
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An accolade for Evohome
My 22 year old boiler was serviced yesterday and the serviceman, who has being doing it for the past few years, remarked that he has seen quite a few control systems for central heating, most of them in fact, but the one he likes best is Evohome which he first saw when doing my service a few years ago.
He did though make two other comments:
1. He has come across some said to be approved Evohome installers who do not seem to know much about it - same experience as myself a couple of years or so ago.
2. He highly recommends the Intergas boiler as simple and reliable even though as he admits it does not produce many call outs because of its reliability. Servicing he says is straight forward and he could not recommend anything better. He himself is not an Intergas installer so he is not pushing his own commission. He did say though, that when there are faults, not often, the service people Intergas send out are not impressive and he had the impression that some, just a few, when the fault should be obvious, do a temporary repair knowing it will fail and they will get another call. Apparently they get a fee for each call out. That seems like fraud to me! He has reported it to Intergas but they have done nothing, he thinks because they do not have many service people in the area.
He did though make two other comments:
1. He has come across some said to be approved Evohome installers who do not seem to know much about it - same experience as myself a couple of years or so ago.
2. He highly recommends the Intergas boiler as simple and reliable even though as he admits it does not produce many call outs because of its reliability. Servicing he says is straight forward and he could not recommend anything better. He himself is not an Intergas installer so he is not pushing his own commission. He did say though, that when there are faults, not often, the service people Intergas send out are not impressive and he had the impression that some, just a few, when the fault should be obvious, do a temporary repair knowing it will fail and they will get another call. Apparently they get a fee for each call out. That seems like fraud to me! He has reported it to Intergas but they have done nothing, he thinks because they do not have many service people in the area.
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Lightwave room temperature sensors ?
Asking for a friend...
Does anyone know whether a room that has a Lightwave radiator controller valve can have one of their room sensors "linked" to the zone to be a remote sensor for the radiator controller, as you can do with Evohome ?
I've read through the installation guides and in my opinion this question is not answered by the guides - it looks more to me like radiator valves and room sensors are mutually exclusive and can't be used in the same zones... ? (EG the room sensor is either a whole house boiler control, or a zone controller in a system with traditional zone valve zones)
By the way, huge discounts on Lightwave heating controls at the moment - which is why he's looking. He's a current Tado V3 owner with radiator controllers but is unhappy with the cost of the room thermostat for the Tado (double that of Evohome) to add as a sensor for some zones which are not sensing the temperature very well...
Does anyone know whether a room that has a Lightwave radiator controller valve can have one of their room sensors "linked" to the zone to be a remote sensor for the radiator controller, as you can do with Evohome ?
I've read through the installation guides and in my opinion this question is not answered by the guides - it looks more to me like radiator valves and room sensors are mutually exclusive and can't be used in the same zones... ? (EG the room sensor is either a whole house boiler control, or a zone controller in a system with traditional zone valve zones)
By the way, huge discounts on Lightwave heating controls at the moment - which is why he's looking. He's a current Tado V3 owner with radiator controllers but is unhappy with the cost of the room thermostat for the Tado (double that of Evohome) to add as a sensor for some zones which are not sensing the temperature very well...
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