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Simple Alarm

May 29, 2014, 9:29 am
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Hi,

This may be an impossible request, but does anyone know if there a really simple alarm system that I can arm just by pressing one button?

Disarming it would ideally be tied to unlocking the front door.

Many thanks,
Owen
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Evohome without the hot water kit

May 30, 2014, 5:42 am
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Grateful for any thoughts/advice from those who might understand these things. I have a modern 5 bed house with a Classic FF280 boiler, 18 radiators (plus one bypass) and an OSO 250 Direct Unvented Cylinder. We have also installed a wood burner in a family room that tends to be our room of choice in the winter.

The thought of having automated TRVs is attractive for a number of reasons (ie; a warm bedroom just before bed without having to heat all of the house).

I am still accumulating quotes but one installer has said that it is unlikely that he will be able to fit the Honeywell hot water sensor to the OSO tank. I have asked OSO for advice. If this is the case, then I am just wasting my money by going for an Evohome system just to control 18 TRVs in 12 zones? Should I be looking at other home automation systems?
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Is X10 still viable with Idratek?

May 31, 2014, 6:50 am
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I have a few X10 modules that could be interfaced with Idratek, rather than waste them. I have a CM12U interface (serial). Idratek used to have an XGW interface, but I can't find that on the website now (apart from the data sheet). X10 have an XM10 and a CM15, but I'm not sure whether these interface.

The new Home Easy RTX module looks a way forward to control, for example, a lamp plugged into a socket where cabling for Idratek is impractical. However, they don't do a mains socket switch (only a plug in dimmer).

Any suggestions?
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HVAC Force heat on: clear the offset after it's passed increased temp?

June 7, 2014, 7:11 am
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Hi All,

Scenario is: using a DFP for HVAC, and using the Force Heat On setting

And it reaches the force heat on set point.

After it surpasses it, how does one clear this user offset?


Where this occurs is actual room set point is 22 degrees. But one wants to temporarily heat a tiled UFH floor, even though ambiet temp is say 25 degrees. So you force heat on, which does the trick, but now room is kind a stuck at 25.5 degrees?

Thanks in advance,

Marcus
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Evohome and Conservatory

June 9, 2014, 3:25 am
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Hi all,

I invested in Honeywell's Evohome, and am pretty pleased with it on the whole!


Everything is installed and configured by the book as Honeywell Y plan including the 42002116 wiring box

Evotouch Controller running:
• Two BDR91 Relays in the airing cupboard (DHW and CH)
• CS92A Wireless Sensor on the Hot Water Cylinder
• Three Way Valve wired into the relays
• 8 HR80 Radiator TRVs (in 8 separate Zones)
- one of these uses a HCF82 Room Sensor (since the Radiator is behind a large sofa
- one uses the sensor in the evotouch controller, as it is wall mounted in the hall where the old thermostat used to be
- the others use the sensors in the HR80s as the radiators are out in the open so give a pretty fair reading
• Zone 9 - the conservatory
- BDR91 relay module into the pump and valve which are mounted under the conservatory floor.
- HCF82 Room Sensor which is bound to the Zone.

In the main, the above works perfectly:
• when any sensor calls for heat, the boiler fires
• when the hot water comes on at 5pm, the 3-way valve opens
In fact, during the 18 months of having the system installed, I have noted that my heating bill has exactly halved - so a return on investment that I am delighted with!

When the new Evotouch ATP921G2080 Controller was released, I upgraded.
In addition to this, I have added the RFG100 Evohome Mobile Access Kit
• The User Interface is a million times better - much more intuitive, and great to see that a lot of thought has gone into it. Honeywell, if you are reading this, please pass big kudos on to your User Interaction designer!
I will upgrade the TRVs to the new HR92UK models in due course.

• It was brilliant the other day - I went to The Netherlands for work for a week, and switched everything off as I left home.
• On returning home, I switched the heating and hot water on as I boarded the plane, and by the time I got back, the house was warm, and there was a plenty of hot water for a bath! Perfect!


I have one minor issue with the conservatory.
It gets way too hot for the HCF82 sensor, and on a warm day it throws an error back to the controller.
The error reads: BAD VALUE AMB SENS.


I have even tried swapping out the HCF82 for a DT92E as I was told it has a higher temperature limit.
However, I still see the same error.

Has anyone else experienced this error, and do you have any recommendations on how I can solve it?

Thanks in advance!
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Self Contained Controller or PC

June 11, 2014, 3:41 pm
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I used to run an X10/Homeeasy home automation and security set up, this worked well, but without status values I was finding devices on when they should have been off etc. Plus it was awfully slow sometimes.

So swapped most of this to run a system from Alertme, although a little cumbersome it worked well, I always know when my lights are on and the alarm seems to work well, only downside, they seem to have completely lost interest in the system and getting bits is hard and I've got no faith they won't simply pull the plug sometime in the future.

So I need to move on, I played with z-wave a long time ago, so have a few HomePro ZRP210 controllers etc so it seems to make sense to stick with z-wave. But was wondering what's the best way to go standalone box, like the Vera lite or PC and usb dongle.

My requirements

1) It needs to be cheap, so either a standalone box or usb stick + free or nearly free software. I have a 24x7 PC already, so not an issue.
2) Ideally works with HomePro modules
3) If standalone box, it mustn't rely on a third party website to configure

Any suggestions please? Especially PC software as it seems the usb stick can be had for just over £40.

thanks

mike
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visonic powermax+ home security system

June 12, 2014, 1:54 pm
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Hello
*I have the visonic powermax+ security system, and it has the option of setting wireless devices (sensors and motion detectors) to chime if triggered in an unarmed state. However one of the motion sensors still chimes whether is is set to either 'off' or 'on'.
*Also the other motion detector doesn't work at all. Only solution I know for this is to get a new one.
If any one has advice, I appreciate it.

Thanks, Alan
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Xcomfort Heating/Temp Control

June 16, 2014, 7:29 am
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Temperature is an important factor for well-being. Controlling heating is not only sensible, it also shapes your mood. Taking care to lower the temperature in rooms that are not in use is a good way to reduce the building’s heating costs. With xComfort, this can be put into practice in both existing buildings and new builds.

Control of heating is important with our extremes of climate. In addition, the lack of resources, energy costs and environmental consciousness mean that we need to manage our energy consumption more carefully. xComfort can help you to do just that! Controlling your heating can have many advantages. xComfort can be used to control both electric and hot water circulation central heating systems.

Functions like automatic night-time reduction and energy-saving programs for extended absence are obvious solutions. Each room or heating zone can have its own temperature profile, tailored to the room’s daily usage patterns.

X-Comfort functions control heating and cooling (if installed) in one zone (e.g. the living room).
In the control area you can switch between the following operation modes Auto: the room temperature always follows automatically the time schedule you have configured (“edit” button) User: you can set the room temperature quickly to an individual value. If Auto mode is (or just was) active this value stays active until the next scheduled temperature change. Then the temperature control changes to the Auto operation mode. If Auto mode is (or was before) inactive this value stays active until you change it manually or select the Auto mode again. If you select one of the following temperature levels, the temperature control changes to the manual mode, these set-points stay active until you change them manually or select the Auto mode again.

Frost protection/Heat protection: if you are away for longer time e.g. on holiday Economy: if a room is empty for a whole day or e.g. at night Standby: if a room is not used for some hours Comfort: if you use the room or need comfortable temperature The display area shows the current temperature value (large font), the current active mode, the wheel position of a Room Controller(if existent) the resulting set point (set-point = temperature level of op. mode + wheel position of Room Controller) the status of the heating (ON: flame symbol is white, OFF: flame symbol is grey) the actual relative humidity value (if Room Controller with included humidity sensor is existent)

See more at: http://more-blog.co.uk/more-control/....eOZFvdk2.dpuf :)
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For Sale - DSC 5108 expander

June 16, 2014, 4:33 pm
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LILA the most affordable connected home security

June 19, 2014, 3:41 am
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Two questions about best control centre for Z-Wave, Fibaro, rfxtrx, etc.

June 19, 2014, 8:43 am
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Hi

I bought a whole load of LightwaveRF dimmer switches for my flat. I'm generally happy with them, but I know that I won't be truly happy until I have a system that can report back the status of each light. So I was looking into the Fibaro dimmers which require mounting in a back box behind a separate switch.

Then I'd like to build up the system using an rfxtrx controller (anyone tried the new RFXtrx433-E version?) and a Windows server running some kind of web interface and logic that ties it all together. Preferably something expandable to support iOS notifications, a nice mobile web interface, maybe even an iOS app. With a view to adding door security controls, blinds control, garage door, etc. at a later date.

Anyway my questions:

1/ Fibaro dimmers behind switches. Do they need a large backbox as compared with LightwaveRF dimmers? My LWRF devices only just fit into some back boxes
2/ I've looked a little bit at some open source Domotic servers. Can someone point me towards some useful articles comparing their functionality? There seems to be so much hot air and not enough data on these server softwares!
3/ Anyone else using Z-Wave and electric door openers? I've looked at the various smartphone door locks (Kevo - easy to break in, August - not released yet, Goji - gorgeous but not released yet) but I'm thinking I'd like to integrate door security into the main control system so I can e.g. press a single "night night" button to turn out the lights and check doors are locked...

Thanks!

Mat
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Opinions on best Heating Controls (plus HA system in general...)

June 20, 2014, 10:55 am
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Hi,

So I'd like to replace my timing unit and I'm keen on HA so I'm looking at units that have the ability to fit into a patchwork style HA system.

From my initial research I can't see much past Honeywell Evo, if it wasn't for the automation being dependent on Honeywell's servers I'd have already gone for it. Every post here (since it was released) is about the system as well. Seems like it's popular! :)

Thought I'd ask a few questions here in case anyone can help:
  • can it be controlled and queried from a system like OpenHAB or Domotiga? Maybe with a RPi\RFXCom system?
  • is there anything that competes?
  • can it report the temperature of the hot water?
  • for cost reasons, I'd do the Heating and Hot water now and then TRVs later in the year - does that work ok?

These are my current devices, I'm aiming to link them all together with software like OpenHAB.

  • Sonos
  • MiGuard Alarm
  • Lightwaverf lights
  • Maplin Weather Station
  • Huawei 3G Modem
  • Harmony Hub
  • USB Camera
  • IP Camera
  • QNAP
  • Raspberry Pis
  • efergy energy monitor


I'm planning on adding some Somfy blinds as well soon, so will def purchase a RFXCom to use with one of my RPis.

Thoughts\opinions and advice more than welcome :)

Matt
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Confused on wiring options

June 30, 2014, 12:35 am
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Hi All,

I'm stuck on how to replace a pair of double light switches that control 3 lights.

I'm looking at slowly replacing an X-10 setup (well, what's left of it anyway) with a fully integrated Z-Wave setup. I'm going to start nice and simple with plugs and lamps and work my way through the rest of the lighting circuit first before moving onto the heating side, but whatever I do has to pass through internal building control (also know as the wife) so I can't do things like chase new wiring or put in new wall boxes. So, with that in mind what I'm looking at is something I can do that can replace the existing light switches.

For the simple light circuits (one switch or two single switches) I'm fine, but in the lounge I have 2 double switches that control 3 lights and I can't work out what to do to replace them. I've looked at Fibaro inserts and TKB Dual Paddle Wall switches, but I don't think that I could fit either 2 inserts into a box or 1 insert and 1 wall switch into the same box. The other option I have been thinking of is 3 inserts but putting them in the ceiling void where the rose is but I'd be concerned about heat buildup.

I'm guessing that many of you have faced similar situations in the past, so I was wondering what answers you had come up with.

Many thanks,
David
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A new dawn... Slow opening automated window blinds

July 1, 2014, 5:03 am
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Hi,



Hoping for some advice!



I work funny hours, including late shifts and nights, and so getting good sleep at random times of the day is really important to me. I also find it beneficial to wake up gradually with natural light. So I have a plan: I want to install a blackout blind, and then fit a motor on a programmable timer that will gradually open the blind just before my wake up time, to create a “dawn” for me to wake to, any time of the day I wish.



My requirements are as follows:

1. Complete black out when blind closed

2. Must be very easy to set the opening time (i.e. no need to boot up a computer) – ideally from android smartphone

3. Must open very slowly, e.g. over a 30 minute period

4. Must have an almost silent motor

5. Must have manual override (that doesn’t take 30 mins to open)

6. I’m hoping for a total cost <£100

Plan so far:

1. Use a standard roller blind with blackout cloth, mounted on the ceiling of the window recess (133cm wide x 209cm high)

2. Connected to mains power, transformed down to lower voltage if required

3. High torque, low speed motor, geared down even further. Something out of a tape deck?

4. Possibly mount motor in box stuffed with modelling clay for silencing effect



I would really like some advice on possible control systems, and whether the whole idea seems feasible at all! Reading around the web have seen talk of Arduino, PICAXE etc, but my knowledge in this area is limited.

I can do a bit of programming, wiring, soldering, carpentry etc, but not sure yet if this project is beyond my skills or not!



(PS I have looked at the Somfy blind motors, but they are expensive, and it doesn’t look like you can make them open slowly enough.)



Thanks,

Mat
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Room controller project

July 1, 2014, 10:29 am
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Perhaps I should post this in the "projects" subforum, although there doesn't seem to be much action there, so thought I'd float it here. Mods, pls move my post accordingly!

My big idea is this.

Recipe: Room Control Panel

Ingredients
1x 400mm by 100mm back box with custom laser cut faceplate
1x Arduino
1x Arduino RF 433 Transceiver (http://www.instructables.com/id/RF-3...dule-and-Ardu/
A handful of Fibaro or LightwaveRF switches to control lights in same room
1x Rotary Encoder and LED ring (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ66PkNUgZI) to control room volume
1x Cheapo PIR for Arduino (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Emgreat-Dete...AY0J78W1Z8B24P)
1x Cheapo Distance Sensor for Arduino (to dim the display when hand not close) - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultrasonic-M...im_computers_3
1x Gorgeous retro display from cannibalised Squeezebox Classic

Serve with:
A handful of Fibaro or LightwaveRF light switches around the home
A Squeezebox Server (aka Logitech Media Server / Slimserver)
Domoticz or OpenHAB or other

Method:
- Combine rotary encoder with LED ring to show volume of Squeezebox music in that room
- Program Arduino to send RF signals to OpenHAB which has a binding with Squeezebox
- Add PIR and distance sensor
- Optional: add cheapo temp and humidity sensors for a couple of quid extra
- Program Arduino to take the inputs and send the RF
- Dismantle Squeezebox v3 (many DIY guides online for this) and add to unit. This doesn't need to be connected to the Arduino, it can just operate standalone using the wifi built-in to Squeezebox

This is my next project.

Anyone wanna join in the fun?
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X10 DIN dimmers and appliance modules

July 13, 2014, 1:00 pm
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Hi All,

Anyone looking for some X10 DIN units? I've got a couple of spare LD11 and AD10 units to sell.

6 x LD11 DIN rail dimmers
2 x AD10 DIN rail appliance modules
1 x TMA4 Marmitek four channel transmitter module

I'm looking for £35 for the lot.

Thanks,
Matt
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Home automation icons for visualization

July 13, 2014, 4:31 pm
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XAML Icon Studio
XAML Icon Studio offers home automation icons in the graphic styles Shapes, Flat, Classic, Glossy, Silver, Windows 8 and Buttons.
For the generation of buttons different button styles and colors are available.
Windows 8 icons are created with shapes and a tile background.
The base graphics can be combined with an overlay.
For windows, doors and shutters several graphics are offered so that the actual state such as "Open window", "window tilted" can be represented visually.
With the graphics filters, the graphics can be recolored.
Thus, e.g. an inactive status or alarm state can be displayed visually.

The graphics can be exported to vector formats XAML WPF, XAML Silverlight and the pixel formats PNG, BMP, JPG, GIF and ICO (RGB32).

The graphics package contains additional icon sets from other themes, which may be suitable in part for the home automation.

Some design examples that were created with the software:

House-automation.jpg

For more information, please visit www.xaml-icon-studio.com/en

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Set timer on lights

July 15, 2014, 3:39 am
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I would like to set a timer on lights so that it stays on for say 15 minutes and I would like to know what is the easiest way to achieve this? I have 9 rooms with exactly the same setup and each room has 2 lights that are not controled by motion sensors. One of the lights is a light above the mirror in a bathroom and the other light is a roof light in the bedroom. I was thinking of "faking" a room presence with the button that switches on the light, but I would like to know if anyone has a better idea.
I would prefer if it is easy to change the timer settings (i.e. if i change the timer for the bathroom mirror it should affect all nine bathrooms).

/Glenn
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Anyone using NUC and/or Windows 8.x Pro?

July 21, 2014, 10:30 am
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Just trying to get feedback from anyone using an NUC platform. Also anyone using Windows 8.x Pro. (For Cortex).

You can reply here or just e-mail direct to me.
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re extending Cbus

July 21, 2014, 11:40 am
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Hi

If anyone can help me it would be much appreciated.

I presently have C bus ijn the main house and looking to extend the C bus dimmers to the extension which I am just about to start wiring.

I have been told that LED downlighters can be used on C bus dimmers as long as there is minimum of 25 watts per channel.I have been advised that Aurora M10 LED downlighters will do the job and I am quite happy to go this route.I was thinking that I would use the 8 channel C buss dimmers which allow for 1A per channel.It is my intention to have 5 downlighters per channel(50w) and possibly 8 downlighters on one channel(80W)Does this sound reasonable and can anyone confirm that these downllighters should be ok?

Also I am looking for the C bus dimmer to control 3 table lamps with LED lamps.I have not done any research on these yet but I thought that this might help future proof against the day they eventually stop production of candescent lamps.Can anyone recommend any lamps that might work on C bus dimmers(I have not bought the table lamps yet) bearing in mind that there will only be 3 of them and the minimum requirement of 25 watts per channel?

Thanking you in advance
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