Hi All, I am using a number of Fibaro dimmers and relays and I am trying to find some decent instantaneous switches that will allow me to set dim levels. I have used clipsal before but dont really like the design. Also seen some some Danlers units that look OK. does anyone have other suggestions? Ideally not too deep as I want to avoid having to fit deeper back boxes. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DNSS1SL.html
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UK options for instantaneous switches to use with Fibaro
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LCD Projector < £60 - This Week Only
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Various Idratek items for sale
Hi all,
Due to an upcoming house move, I have had to remove my (incomplete) Idratek installation. As such I have a number of components available for sale in full working order (or a described where this is not the case). If you are interested in any pleased message me. I'm happy to provide photos or further info if required.
DFP-H02, Highly integrated panel with display, audio, sensors, digital inputs and power control
Used but still in as new condition. Original fixings still included including unused connector block. Instructions and original packaging also included. £200 (original retail price £273.60 inc VAT)
LTH-X01, Light level, temperature, humidity, 2x digital inputs with pulse counting in external enclosure
This item is unused, and as such in as new condition. £60 (original retail price £87.60 inc VAT)
QRI-002, 5M DIN rail enclosure with 4 x 4A fused SPNO relays, 4 general purpose digital inputs with pulse counting capability and 4 x relay indicator LEDs
One fuse holder detached from circuit board. Means this can either be repaired, or treated as a 3 output device. £40 (original retail price £82.80 inc VAT)
QRI-002, 5M DIN rail enclosure with 4 x 4A fused SPNO relays, 4 general purpose digital inputs with pulse counting capability and 4 x relay indicator LEDs
All terminals working on this one. £55 (original retail price £82.80 inc VAT)
QLD-001, 6M DIN Rail 4 channel dimmer, 250W per channel with 8 general purpose digital inputs
Full working order. £80 (original retail price £117.60 inc VAT)
PLH-001, PIR, light level, temperature, humidity and 2x digital inputs with pulse counting
3 available. Full working order. £60 each (original retail price £88.80 inc VAT)
MPD-002, Mini-power interface in single pattress format
With power supply. £20 (original retail price £30.00 inc VAT)
PCU-001, PC to IdraNet Interface: USB with Audio
With original cables. £45 (original retail price £67.20 inc VAT)
XRM-001, Relay accessory module
This item is unused, and as such in as new condition. £8 (original retail price £14.40 inc VAT)
6WA-101, 6-way IdraNet junction board
Unopened. £4 (original retail price £7.20 inc VAT)
CON-002, IdraNet 6-way connector plug (10-pack)
£8 (original retail price £12.00 inc VAT)
FUS-009, 1.25A pluggable fuse (pack of 10)
All unused. £3 (original retail price £4.80 inc VAT)
FUS-001, 1A pluggable fuse (pack of 10)
17 altogether, unused. £5 (original retail price £4.80 inc VAT)
FUS-003, 4A pluggable fuse (pack of 10)
All unused. £3 (original retail price £4.80 inc VAT)
Thanks
Chris
Due to an upcoming house move, I have had to remove my (incomplete) Idratek installation. As such I have a number of components available for sale in full working order (or a described where this is not the case). If you are interested in any pleased message me. I'm happy to provide photos or further info if required.
DFP-H02, Highly integrated panel with display, audio, sensors, digital inputs and power control
Used but still in as new condition. Original fixings still included including unused connector block. Instructions and original packaging also included. £200 (original retail price £273.60 inc VAT)
LTH-X01, Light level, temperature, humidity, 2x digital inputs with pulse counting in external enclosure
This item is unused, and as such in as new condition. £60 (original retail price £87.60 inc VAT)
QRI-002, 5M DIN rail enclosure with 4 x 4A fused SPNO relays, 4 general purpose digital inputs with pulse counting capability and 4 x relay indicator LEDs
One fuse holder detached from circuit board. Means this can either be repaired, or treated as a 3 output device. £40 (original retail price £82.80 inc VAT)
QRI-002, 5M DIN rail enclosure with 4 x 4A fused SPNO relays, 4 general purpose digital inputs with pulse counting capability and 4 x relay indicator LEDs
All terminals working on this one. £55 (original retail price £82.80 inc VAT)
QLD-001, 6M DIN Rail 4 channel dimmer, 250W per channel with 8 general purpose digital inputs
Full working order. £80 (original retail price £117.60 inc VAT)
PLH-001, PIR, light level, temperature, humidity and 2x digital inputs with pulse counting
3 available. Full working order. £60 each (original retail price £88.80 inc VAT)
MPD-002, Mini-power interface in single pattress format
With power supply. £20 (original retail price £30.00 inc VAT)
PCU-001, PC to IdraNet Interface: USB with Audio
With original cables. £45 (original retail price £67.20 inc VAT)
XRM-001, Relay accessory module
This item is unused, and as such in as new condition. £8 (original retail price £14.40 inc VAT)
6WA-101, 6-way IdraNet junction board
Unopened. £4 (original retail price £7.20 inc VAT)
CON-002, IdraNet 6-way connector plug (10-pack)
£8 (original retail price £12.00 inc VAT)
FUS-009, 1.25A pluggable fuse (pack of 10)
All unused. £3 (original retail price £4.80 inc VAT)
FUS-001, 1A pluggable fuse (pack of 10)
17 altogether, unused. £5 (original retail price £4.80 inc VAT)
FUS-003, 4A pluggable fuse (pack of 10)
All unused. £3 (original retail price £4.80 inc VAT)
Thanks
Chris
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new to evoHome - existing Honeywell wireless room thermostat
Dear all,
Apologies for a lengthy post and probably some very basic questions.
Being a little tired of the wrong part of the house being too warm or too cold respectively I have just ordered the Honeywell evohome WiFi Controller and the Honeywell evohome Radiator Multi Zone Kit (aka HR92s)
My current boiler is a Worcester Greenstar Ri, and I believe the heating system is wired up as an S-Plan with two motorized valves, a wireless Honeywell Room Thermostat (CM727 http://www.honeywelluk.com/products/...ats/TPI/CM727/), and a dual channel timer for HW and CH. I have attached a photo for clarification. The cable coming on from the top right part of the photo comes from the timer.
DSCN0066_resized.jpg
I have this idea that converting to Evohome might not be that challenging (that is if I want it to control CH only), but am going on a number of a assumptions and would be extremely grateful if someone could confirm or deny the below...
From looking at my current setup I am assuming that
a) my current setup is one, where once there is demand from the hot water cylinder thermostat or the room thermostat, the respective motorized valve opens, and the valve itself is then sending an on signal to the boiler + pump?
b) My current room thermostat is already using a BDR91 as visible on the photo, which is the same box the new evoHome WiFi Controller can be linked to
c) When I receive the WiFi Controller I can just take the batteries out of the old CM727 thermostat, follow the unbind procedure on the BDR91, and then bind the new evohome WiFi Controller to the existing BDR91
d) That when I then further pair up all the HR92s with the new WiFi Controller I'm pretty much "done" as far as the CH goes - I can then switch the timer to "continuous", configure the HR92s as different zones, and if one of them drops below the set temperature it will operate the CH motorized valve through the existing BDR91, which will then turn on the pump and boiler through the existing wiring, in the same way it would have done so with the single wireless room thermostat - difference being it now does this "from every zone"
e) That I do NOT configure the BDR91 as a boiler relay in evoHome, as it controls a motorized valve
e) That I could, if I wanted, add another BDR91 to control my second (HW) motorized valve. That this new BDR91 would be linked up with a new CS92 transceiver that would in turn be connected to a CS92 strap-on sensor. I would have to follow the wiring from the current strap-on sensor (which is a Honeywell L641), which probably runs to the current junction box and controls the HW motorized valve. This would be disconnected, an instead the new BDR91 would be connected to that motorized valve.
As I said I'm completely new to this. I hope this makes sense and would be extremely grateful for any answers.
Please let me know if anything is unclear
Many thanks - Martin
Apologies for a lengthy post and probably some very basic questions.
Being a little tired of the wrong part of the house being too warm or too cold respectively I have just ordered the Honeywell evohome WiFi Controller and the Honeywell evohome Radiator Multi Zone Kit (aka HR92s)
My current boiler is a Worcester Greenstar Ri, and I believe the heating system is wired up as an S-Plan with two motorized valves, a wireless Honeywell Room Thermostat (CM727 http://www.honeywelluk.com/products/...ats/TPI/CM727/), and a dual channel timer for HW and CH. I have attached a photo for clarification. The cable coming on from the top right part of the photo comes from the timer.
DSCN0066_resized.jpg
I have this idea that converting to Evohome might not be that challenging (that is if I want it to control CH only), but am going on a number of a assumptions and would be extremely grateful if someone could confirm or deny the below...
From looking at my current setup I am assuming that
a) my current setup is one, where once there is demand from the hot water cylinder thermostat or the room thermostat, the respective motorized valve opens, and the valve itself is then sending an on signal to the boiler + pump?
b) My current room thermostat is already using a BDR91 as visible on the photo, which is the same box the new evoHome WiFi Controller can be linked to
c) When I receive the WiFi Controller I can just take the batteries out of the old CM727 thermostat, follow the unbind procedure on the BDR91, and then bind the new evohome WiFi Controller to the existing BDR91
d) That when I then further pair up all the HR92s with the new WiFi Controller I'm pretty much "done" as far as the CH goes - I can then switch the timer to "continuous", configure the HR92s as different zones, and if one of them drops below the set temperature it will operate the CH motorized valve through the existing BDR91, which will then turn on the pump and boiler through the existing wiring, in the same way it would have done so with the single wireless room thermostat - difference being it now does this "from every zone"
e) That I do NOT configure the BDR91 as a boiler relay in evoHome, as it controls a motorized valve
e) That I could, if I wanted, add another BDR91 to control my second (HW) motorized valve. That this new BDR91 would be linked up with a new CS92 transceiver that would in turn be connected to a CS92 strap-on sensor. I would have to follow the wiring from the current strap-on sensor (which is a Honeywell L641), which probably runs to the current junction box and controls the HW motorized valve. This would be disconnected, an instead the new BDR91 would be connected to that motorized valve.
As I said I'm completely new to this. I hope this makes sense and would be extremely grateful for any answers.
Please let me know if anything is unclear
Many thanks - Martin
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Network config question
Hi,
I want to use some form of Home Automation to be more efficient with my heating. I live in a rather rambling cottage that doesnt work well with a single central, thermostat as there is no central location where it can be effective. I want to divide the house into 4 zones, The Office (2 rooms in an attached annex). Lounge and Entry, Kitchen, and Upstairs bedroom and bathroom (All these areas are well defined and seperate from each other). I have a standard boiler with hot water tank that feeds all the radiators on a single circuit. Each radiator has a standard mechanical thermostatic valve.
I can replace all the radiator valves with danfoss LC13 devices and replace the boiler controller with a suitable z-wave controller but what I am not sure about is whether I need a thermostatic controller in each area (or a seperate temperature sensor)and whether I need a seperate Hub or whether this can be combined with the boiler control. In my mind I am thinking Hub and spoke, a controller such as the nCube managing all the zones each consisting of a temperature sensor/thermostat and associated radiators, Finally a simple boiler controller slaved to the hub so that this can decide whether the boiler is on or off.
Would this work or is it overkill, might there be a simpler answer to this problem. Any recomendations or advice would be really helpful
Cheers
I want to use some form of Home Automation to be more efficient with my heating. I live in a rather rambling cottage that doesnt work well with a single central, thermostat as there is no central location where it can be effective. I want to divide the house into 4 zones, The Office (2 rooms in an attached annex). Lounge and Entry, Kitchen, and Upstairs bedroom and bathroom (All these areas are well defined and seperate from each other). I have a standard boiler with hot water tank that feeds all the radiators on a single circuit. Each radiator has a standard mechanical thermostatic valve.
I can replace all the radiator valves with danfoss LC13 devices and replace the boiler controller with a suitable z-wave controller but what I am not sure about is whether I need a thermostatic controller in each area (or a seperate temperature sensor)and whether I need a seperate Hub or whether this can be combined with the boiler control. In my mind I am thinking Hub and spoke, a controller such as the nCube managing all the zones each consisting of a temperature sensor/thermostat and associated radiators, Finally a simple boiler controller slaved to the hub so that this can decide whether the boiler is on or off.
Would this work or is it overkill, might there be a simpler answer to this problem. Any recomendations or advice would be really helpful
Cheers
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New unvented cylinder - nowhere for Evohome Probe :(
Hi all,
My parents have been using Evohome for over a year now, with great success. But now they are having their hot water system converted from gravity feed to mains pressure. The unvented cylinder is a Warmflow IN250UV (250L unvented indirect), here is a schematic of the tank:
Warmflow.jpg
I have both the strap on sensor and the insertion sensor, but there are no available wells. Where could we attach the temp sensor?
The plumber doing the install has never used Evohome, but he seems to think that as the secondary return isn't being used, instead of blanking it off he can get a 22mm "probe pocket" that would allow the probe to be inserted there, something like this:
http://www.sensorshop.co.uk/Pocket-6...h=thermopocket
150mm2-500x500.jpg
Does that sound feasible? More to the point, would it be safe?
Thanks in advance!
Gareth
My parents have been using Evohome for over a year now, with great success. But now they are having their hot water system converted from gravity feed to mains pressure. The unvented cylinder is a Warmflow IN250UV (250L unvented indirect), here is a schematic of the tank:
Warmflow.jpg
I have both the strap on sensor and the insertion sensor, but there are no available wells. Where could we attach the temp sensor?
The plumber doing the install has never used Evohome, but he seems to think that as the secondary return isn't being used, instead of blanking it off he can get a 22mm "probe pocket" that would allow the probe to be inserted there, something like this:
http://www.sensorshop.co.uk/Pocket-6...h=thermopocket
150mm2-500x500.jpg
Does that sound feasible? More to the point, would it be safe?
Thanks in advance!
Gareth
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Le sucre alarm
Does anyone know if you can set up this system without creating an account with Honeywell I tryed to create an account but asked me for a 20 digit number which is located on back of box but all numbers I have are too small or more than 20 ?? Thanks
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Wiring BDR91 + Evo
Hello,
I have purchased new evo package with BDR91. I've had a look at the diagrams for wiring up BDR91 to combi boiler.
Would it be OK to wire up BDR91 directly to the same power fused spur socket as the combi boiler is connect at the moment?
So the boiler will have own power cable, BDR91 will have own one?
Then I will just wire A and B connections to room thermostat connections on the boiler?
I would appreciate any help.
Cheers
I have purchased new evo package with BDR91. I've had a look at the diagrams for wiring up BDR91 to combi boiler.
Would it be OK to wire up BDR91 directly to the same power fused spur socket as the combi boiler is connect at the moment?
So the boiler will have own power cable, BDR91 will have own one?
Then I will just wire A and B connections to room thermostat connections on the boiler?
I would appreciate any help.
Cheers
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Adt
Does anyone have master codes for Adt domonial alarm or know how to do a factory reset thanks
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Adt codes
Hi does anyone have Adt master codes for a domonial alarm or know how to factory reset thanks
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Evohome Connected + Y87RF + HCE80 pairing - confusion over setpoints
I thought I had this figured out, but couldn't find a solution or an instruction guide for this:
I have a multi-zone layout with 2x HCE80 providing control of multiple zone valves to each room of the house, and Y87RF units in each room.
Each HCE80 zone is paired with the Evohome controller, each Y87RF is also paired. The temperature is being transmitted correctly, but the setpoint (ie as an override by the Y87RF) isn't. i.e. if the Evohome has the zone as 15 degrees, 'turning up' the Y87RF does not trigger the zone valve to come on.
Could someone explain the directionality of the pairing? i.e. should the Y87RF and the Evohome both pair into / talk to the HCE80 zone valve, or should the Y87RF talk to the Evohome, and the Evohome talk to the HCE80? I thought the Evohome controller would listen to setpoint commands from a device, but perhaps it's the HCE80 that has to take the command directly?
The whole setup relies on the Evohome controller basically setting the rooms to a lowish temperature, but the occupier turning the setpoint up locally when necessary!
Many thanks
I have a multi-zone layout with 2x HCE80 providing control of multiple zone valves to each room of the house, and Y87RF units in each room.
Each HCE80 zone is paired with the Evohome controller, each Y87RF is also paired. The temperature is being transmitted correctly, but the setpoint (ie as an override by the Y87RF) isn't. i.e. if the Evohome has the zone as 15 degrees, 'turning up' the Y87RF does not trigger the zone valve to come on.
Could someone explain the directionality of the pairing? i.e. should the Y87RF and the Evohome both pair into / talk to the HCE80 zone valve, or should the Y87RF talk to the Evohome, and the Evohome talk to the HCE80? I thought the Evohome controller would listen to setpoint commands from a device, but perhaps it's the HCE80 that has to take the command directly?
The whole setup relies on the Evohome controller basically setting the rooms to a lowish temperature, but the occupier turning the setpoint up locally when necessary!
Many thanks
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Quick check on how T87RF2033 (Wireless Thermostat) works
I have Evohome fitted at my property (has been fitted for past 12 months), I previously has British Gas Hive. What drew me to Evohome was the ability to see DHW termperature and the ability to add the wireless rad valves. I have a log burner in my front room, which is where my CH thermostat was, the front room would get hot with the burner on and therefore the rest of the house would be cold. With Evohome I have located the wireless control panel in the main bedroom and have HR92 wireless rad valves in the front room. I have a one zone CH setup. With my current Evohome setup the front room HR92s can be turned down when the log burner is running, so the room receives no CH heat but the rest of the house is warmed.
But I have a stupid problem! The damn Evohome controller is incredibly bright, even on night setting and on the lowest brightness setting (poor software design IMHO, there should be an option to turn the screen off at set times). To get over this I'm considering installing Honeywell's wireless thermostat in the main bedroom and use this for the CH zone control and moving the Evohome controller to another room. My question is, can the wireless thermostat be the CH zone control? Or does the Evohome controller need to be the CH zone control?
Thanks - Adrian
But I have a stupid problem! The damn Evohome controller is incredibly bright, even on night setting and on the lowest brightness setting (poor software design IMHO, there should be an option to turn the screen off at set times). To get over this I'm considering installing Honeywell's wireless thermostat in the main bedroom and use this for the CH zone control and moving the Evohome controller to another room. My question is, can the wireless thermostat be the CH zone control? Or does the Evohome controller need to be the CH zone control?
Thanks - Adrian
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Evohome - boiler 6min on, 4min off and so on?
Hello,
I have installed evohome 2 days ago. Its seems to worked well yesterday however last night I noticed something strange.
I have HR92 in 3 bedrooms, living room one radiator with HR92 and one radiator without, bathoorm radiator without hr92. BDR91 on combi boiler
HR92 - set to -1 to compensate, 6 cycles on Evo.
I set the temp at night as follows: living 17C, bedroom 20,20, 21
I woke up last at night and noticed that boiler started to work for 6min then 4min off, 6min on - 4min off and so on.
Checked all radiators and they were barely warm with bathroom on hot (no hr92 on it). Temp in all badrooms were 1C above set temp on evohome.
I put the temp down to 17 in all bedrooms and the strange behavior stopped.
Could someone advise what has caused the boiler to come on for 6min and then off for 4min?
Thanks
I have installed evohome 2 days ago. Its seems to worked well yesterday however last night I noticed something strange.
I have HR92 in 3 bedrooms, living room one radiator with HR92 and one radiator without, bathoorm radiator without hr92. BDR91 on combi boiler
HR92 - set to -1 to compensate, 6 cycles on Evo.
I set the temp at night as follows: living 17C, bedroom 20,20, 21
I woke up last at night and noticed that boiler started to work for 6min then 4min off, 6min on - 4min off and so on.
Checked all radiators and they were barely warm with bathroom on hot (no hr92 on it). Temp in all badrooms were 1C above set temp on evohome.
I put the temp down to 17 in all bedrooms and the strange behavior stopped.
Could someone advise what has caused the boiler to come on for 6min and then off for 4min?
Thanks
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Evohome 'Optimum Start' Switching on too Early
We have a honeywell evohome system and the master bedroom is set to heat up by 10:30pm each evening. I have recently switched on optimum start after not using it for some time and it's consistently starting to heat the room a full hour early, despite it only taking 20-30 minutes to reach the required temperature. It doesn't overshoot but sits at temperature for 30+ minutes before it's needed.
From my understanding, optimum start is supposed to be a learning system, yet I've waited a week and it's failed to try starting later than a full 1 hour sooner at all so far. It should only need several days to learn the parameters, or even just a single day if it also monitors how fast the temperature drops and knows the outside temp. Should I just be more patient, or do I perhaps need to reset the system, and if so how?
Thanks
From my understanding, optimum start is supposed to be a learning system, yet I've waited a week and it's failed to try starting later than a full 1 hour sooner at all so far. It should only need several days to learn the parameters, or even just a single day if it also monitors how fast the temperature drops and knows the outside temp. Should I just be more patient, or do I perhaps need to reset the system, and if so how?
Thanks
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Automation based on state of combination of (virtual) switches + timers
Hi
I'm using ST, IFTTT, Evohome and smartphone motion sensors to automate my heating so that:
- it switches off when both my wife and I leave the home (which I do without IFTTT)
- when one of us returns home (also without IFTTT)
- and when one of us enters West London (on the assumption that we're coming home, so that the heating can get a headstart), which I do using IFTTT and a virtual 'AWAY' switch in ST (which switches off the heating via IFTTT), as IFTTT can't change the Mode.
However, this last Use Case isn't perfect, as sometimes we enter West London but aren't coming straight home, or we might dip back into the area on the non-linear route somewhere else. I don't mind the heating going on briefly but if we're going away for a period of time this could result in the heating being left on for a long time.
So I'd like to programme the system to turn off again a) if we leave West London again and b) if we don't reenter the house 45 minutes after the 'reentering West London' signal is received.
However, as there are two of us, the logic for this gets a bit more complicated as if I leave West London again my wife might still be travelling home etc.
For A)
I'd like to use two virtual switches for my wife (H) and I (T) (T returning, H returning), and switch off the Away switch if either of these switch on. However, how can I make them switch the Away switch back on if and only if they both are both Off?
For B)
is there a way to make a switch turn back to Off after 45 minutes if one of us doesn't return home (changing the mode)? I thought I could hack Power Allowance but this is linked to open/closed sensors which I'm not sure I can fake in the same way as Virtual Switches (as I can't tell the sensor that it's closed/open - just read its output).
I'm aware i might be able to achieve the above by using another app in the mix (life 360?) but I'm trying to minimise the number of apps that we need to have running on our devices day-to-day.
Thanks
Tom
I'm using ST, IFTTT, Evohome and smartphone motion sensors to automate my heating so that:
- it switches off when both my wife and I leave the home (which I do without IFTTT)
- when one of us returns home (also without IFTTT)
- and when one of us enters West London (on the assumption that we're coming home, so that the heating can get a headstart), which I do using IFTTT and a virtual 'AWAY' switch in ST (which switches off the heating via IFTTT), as IFTTT can't change the Mode.
However, this last Use Case isn't perfect, as sometimes we enter West London but aren't coming straight home, or we might dip back into the area on the non-linear route somewhere else. I don't mind the heating going on briefly but if we're going away for a period of time this could result in the heating being left on for a long time.
So I'd like to programme the system to turn off again a) if we leave West London again and b) if we don't reenter the house 45 minutes after the 'reentering West London' signal is received.
However, as there are two of us, the logic for this gets a bit more complicated as if I leave West London again my wife might still be travelling home etc.
For A)
I'd like to use two virtual switches for my wife (H) and I (T) (T returning, H returning), and switch off the Away switch if either of these switch on. However, how can I make them switch the Away switch back on if and only if they both are both Off?
For B)
is there a way to make a switch turn back to Off after 45 minutes if one of us doesn't return home (changing the mode)? I thought I could hack Power Allowance but this is linked to open/closed sensors which I'm not sure I can fake in the same way as Virtual Switches (as I can't tell the sensor that it's closed/open - just read its output).
I'm aware i might be able to achieve the above by using another app in the mix (life 360?) but I'm trying to minimise the number of apps that we need to have running on our devices day-to-day.
Thanks
Tom
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Graph of gas consumption showing Evohome in action
There is nothing better than a picture of gas consumption to show EvoHome in action with a 24kW boiler, 18 actuators in 12 zones in a two storey house with a large hall.
The graph is updated every 15 minutes.
o The 6kW peak is heating the house from cold in the morning equating to 24kW/hr
o The 0.25 peaks are due to heating the water tank after several showers. The water comes on at 06:30 before the radiators.
o The 0.03ish peaks is EvoHome keeping the house up to temperature with low radiator temperatures.
o Gas usage drops to zero at 17:00 because we lit a log stove and turned downstairs zones off.
evohome.jpg
The graph is updated every 15 minutes.
o The 6kW peak is heating the house from cold in the morning equating to 24kW/hr
o The 0.25 peaks are due to heating the water tank after several showers. The water comes on at 06:30 before the radiators.
o The 0.03ish peaks is EvoHome keeping the house up to temperature with low radiator temperatures.
o Gas usage drops to zero at 17:00 because we lit a log stove and turned downstairs zones off.
evohome.jpg
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Honeywell evohome and Vaillant ecotec plus 838
Hi all, I'm new to these forums but am looking to do lots with home automation so hoping I can learn from all the experts here :) I'm looking at installing the Honeywell evohome system at home and have the above-mentioned boiler which is less than a year old. Some people have told me that before getting the system installed I might want to check the wiring guide for my boiler to ensure it won't get "upset or confused" at constantly being turned on and off by the evohome. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience about this?
The other thing which occurs to me from a simplistic view is that if the boiler is being turned on and off much more frequently, is that not going to put more stress on it thereby ageing it quicker? Or making it prone to break down? It might be totally nonsensical but just wanting to check.
Any advice or guidance will be much appreciated!
TIA
The other thing which occurs to me from a simplistic view is that if the boiler is being turned on and off much more frequently, is that not going to put more stress on it thereby ageing it quicker? Or making it prone to break down? It might be totally nonsensical but just wanting to check.
Any advice or guidance will be much appreciated!
TIA
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Zone using T87RF and BDR91 keeps turning on and off even below setpoint
So my single zone ufh is set up as a separate zone where a T87RF room stat is setup as the sensor and a BDR91 is paired as the actuator. The BDR91 in turn switches a motorised zone valve on, which previously was also firing up the boiler. The ufh zone has it's own flow and return branch from the boiler before the CH motorised zone valve. Because the evohome doesn't deal with S Plan+ it was previously configured as an S plan. So everytime the ufh had heat demand the CH valve also would get opened.
Today i moved away from using the CH valve controlled by evohome. It's now permanently kept open. Boiler is fired by the Opentherm bridge.
What I have noticed today, although it may have always happened is the ufh bdr91 keeps turning on an off even if the set point hasn't been reached. I would have expected the zone valve to stay open until set point is reached and then may be at the set point keep going on and off to maintain the set point, or better still let the OT bridge regulate the temperature.
So why does the bdr91 keep going on and off even below the set point? Is it TPI doing this?
Today i moved away from using the CH valve controlled by evohome. It's now permanently kept open. Boiler is fired by the Opentherm bridge.
What I have noticed today, although it may have always happened is the ufh bdr91 keeps turning on an off even if the set point hasn't been reached. I would have expected the zone valve to stay open until set point is reached and then may be at the set point keep going on and off to maintain the set point, or better still let the OT bridge regulate the temperature.
So why does the bdr91 keep going on and off even below the set point? Is it TPI doing this?
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T87RF and HR92 - Ignoring the Local Override setting from Evohome Controller
So I've updated one of the zones to have a TR87RF in there to monitor the temperatures in the nursery, as I'm going to be fitting a radiator cover which will encase the entire radiator & TRV unit which will be used for little one to draw on/have an interactive sensory thing going on. However, it looks like this combination completely ignores the Local Override setting within the zone configuration on the Evohome controller.
All other rooms with override disabled, when trying to adjust the temperature, show BLOCKED on the HR92's, however, the TR87RF allows the temperature to be manually set, and this is then shown accordingly on the controller.
Is this a known issue? Or have I bound it incorrectly (Deleted existing zone, restart controller, create new zone, bound TR87, bound HR92)
Cheers
All other rooms with override disabled, when trying to adjust the temperature, show BLOCKED on the HR92's, however, the TR87RF allows the temperature to be manually set, and this is then shown accordingly on the controller.
Is this a known issue? Or have I bound it incorrectly (Deleted existing zone, restart controller, create new zone, bound TR87, bound HR92)
Cheers
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Vaillant boiler monitoring - anyone doing it?
Having just spent an hour rewiring my S plan+ system so that the Evohome + OT bridge had almost complete control of it, I started thinking of my next project.
Today I put the Evohome into Away mode and for the longest time the OT bridge gave the boiler a target temperature of 10C, which means OFF. However suddenly for no reason it put the target temperature up to 33C, but because the flow temperature was already 41C in the boiler, the boiler didn't fire up.
My current setup is
1. Boiler is now completely controlled via the OT bridge -> VR33 -> Vaillant boiler. I can see varying target flow temperatures being set. And the OT bridge is firing up the boiler too after all the wiring modifications I had to make inside the boiler PCB (i.e. jumper between 3-4, jumper between 7-8)
2. Heating pump is controlled by the boiler and now I've rewired my system, so that the CH motorised valve opens whenever the pump is running. So effectively I don't have a CH valve any more.
3. All the radiators besides two towel rails have the radiator controls on them.
4. I do have the HW kit as well with a HW valve.
5. One CH zone is UFH with a T87RF sensor and a BDR91 set up as a Zone Valve operating the UFH pump and it's own zone valve.
I now want to see what the boiler is actually up to. My boiler is up in the loft so visually monitoring it proves difficult. In fact the entire set-up is so silent, I've had to repurpose the old wired room stat to come on when the pump was running, so I knew the heating system was on - doing something!
Is there anyone who is successfully monitoring a Vaillant boiler? I have quickly built a read only eBus interface. I want to be able to monitor the flow, return, target flow temperatures and flame status. I know I can monitor flow and return via external sensors but would like the boiler's own view.
Today I put the Evohome into Away mode and for the longest time the OT bridge gave the boiler a target temperature of 10C, which means OFF. However suddenly for no reason it put the target temperature up to 33C, but because the flow temperature was already 41C in the boiler, the boiler didn't fire up.
My current setup is
1. Boiler is now completely controlled via the OT bridge -> VR33 -> Vaillant boiler. I can see varying target flow temperatures being set. And the OT bridge is firing up the boiler too after all the wiring modifications I had to make inside the boiler PCB (i.e. jumper between 3-4, jumper between 7-8)
2. Heating pump is controlled by the boiler and now I've rewired my system, so that the CH motorised valve opens whenever the pump is running. So effectively I don't have a CH valve any more.
3. All the radiators besides two towel rails have the radiator controls on them.
4. I do have the HW kit as well with a HW valve.
5. One CH zone is UFH with a T87RF sensor and a BDR91 set up as a Zone Valve operating the UFH pump and it's own zone valve.
I now want to see what the boiler is actually up to. My boiler is up in the loft so visually monitoring it proves difficult. In fact the entire set-up is so silent, I've had to repurpose the old wired room stat to come on when the pump was running, so I knew the heating system was on - doing something!
Is there anyone who is successfully monitoring a Vaillant boiler? I have quickly built a read only eBus interface. I want to be able to monitor the flow, return, target flow temperatures and flame status. I know I can monitor flow and return via external sensors but would like the boiler's own view.
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