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Latch open a 4043?

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I had an S-plan heating system that has been upgraded to full Evohome with HR92s on every radiator. At the time we simply latched open and electrically disconnected the existing heating zone valve as the boiler is now under control of the OpenTherm bridge.

But I vaguely recall reading somewhere recently that latching open the valve using the lever on the motor head doesn't fully open the valve, but only partially opens it to allow filling/draining of the system.

My system has been working brilliantly, so the latching has worked, but I am now curious as to whether the valve is indeed fully open or not, and whether it would matter either way. I can see that if it was partially open then it introduces an extra pressure loss over the valve in addition to the losses over the radiators etc.

I know that in the long run I could remove the valve completely, but means more work, so I'm quite happy with the valve in situ but open. I'm more curious about what goes on in the valve when it is latched!

Thanks!

Can anyone help advise how to move from a cm927 to Evohome please?

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Hi,

I have decided to move from a honeywell cm927 thermostat to Evohome to enable me to gain more control over individual radiators and rooms. I have an Ecotec plus 831 combi boiler which was installed 4 years ago along with new radiators and pipe work. Can anyone advise what kit I will need to do this and do I need to use a new BDR91? If not can I buy the Evohome thermostsat without the BDR? Many many thanks in advance..

Ideal Vogue & Opentherm via Honeywell T6 Lyric (wired version)

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Hello everyone, my first post here on this excellent forum!

I am a facilities manager so used to high end building controls etc. I am passionate about the same at home and enjoy having control over the heating to get full efficiency. I've had a new Ideal Vogue boiler installed with a T6 wired thermostat so the OpenTherm is activated as confirmed by the boiler. I also have the outdoor sensor installed but I now understand that when OpenTherm is used it ignores the outdoor sensor and so this is just reported on the boiler display for info purchases. Indeed it is ignoring any curve and corresponding temperature that is in the boiler even though this is adjustable still. I appreciate this is a learning thermostat but it's been in now a week and it is not modulating down any further that about 50c. I have changed the max flow temp at the boiler several times in the week as the default 80C was just too much heat being kicked out when I have large radiators anyway and the rooms were becoming stifling and gas usage was high. I went down from 80-70 & now at 60C max flow temp. Possibly even put it down to 55C. My previous 12year old condensing boiler (gloworm 30cxi) I used at about 50-55C flow temp occasionally turning it up to 60C when very cold but I used to let it tick away like that all the time. This kept the house very comfortable and the thermostat rarely clicked off as an overshoot.

1. How long does it take because outside weather conditions change daily so a house could take longer to heat or quicker to cool if there is a change in the weather from day to day especially being in the U.K. Where yesterday it was 2c all day and today we have 7c.

2. What is the reason for "low load control"? There is no mention of this in the manual but I have found this online: http://getconnected.honeywell.com/en...ct_Spec_EN.pdf

If the Receiver box is connected to an OpenTherm appliance this setting is used in the demand control. When an appliance is no longer able to modulate lower the control switches from modulating control to low/off control.

By default it is set to on in the Lyric T6 menu... so if the boiler can't lower further (which I know it can and have seen it go lower) it will just turn the boiler off... What is the purpose of this and what is it to avoid? There is also a low load control in the OpenTherm information menu (see below) and so when it is turned off on the t6 it is still turned on at the boiler so does this mean the boiler has built in low load control?

3. In the OpenTherm properties under the advanced menu I have a "control set point" which shows what looks to be a flow temperature the boiler is set to achieve via the t6 however this doesn't correspond with what is on the boiler as the target flow temp e.g. The t6 will show 49c but the boiler will show 44c as its target flow temp. This value fluctuates but never matches what the boiler display shows.

4. Another issue is with a digital thermometer next to the thermostat the t6 reads about 2c out - I can only adjust the temp to +-1.5c on the lyric so this is not very accurate. I've read that on the older lyrics there was a "fine tune" feature which adjusts the target temp to match humidity and outside weather but not seen anything for the T6.

I think the thermostat has a temperature sensing fault when compared to my old digital thermostat which sensed the temp perfectly; if I have it say set at 21c the t6 might read 21c however if I then go and turn it up to 22c the thermostat will then report the room temp has changed to 22c even though the room temp hasn't changed. The same happens if I then turn it back don to 21c it will say the room temp is 21c. I will then put it back to 22c and if will report the room temp is 22c and I could then put it down to 20.5 and it will say the room temp is 21c. This same behaviour is observed whether controlled from the thermostat itself or via the lyric app and if I just put a .5C increase or decrease it will then add on or take off .5C.

I've included screenshots below on this post so you can see what I mean and you will see the time is within the same minute.

image8.JPG

image9.JPG

The boiler will run most the time with the burner on but is still preferring to cycle off and the t6 thermostat is not modulating it down any lower than 50c this is still too much heat output so the thermostat is cycling off as it's overshot the room temp. The boiler then shows "no demand" I have a max flow temp of 60c set as I do not like radiators being too hot. It does a great job of getting the house up to temp but to TBH I expected more modulation. My boiler is capable of flow temps of down to 40c and be in modulation mode too so when the room temp is at 21c I would expect the t6 to modulate it right down rather than have frequent boiler cycling. Appreciate though that this is early days but in a week its not done anything different to when it was first installed.

Any help would be really appreciated, Ideals call centre have been useless and the installer doesn't know how OpenTherm controls really as it was his first time fitting OpenTherm and that's because I spec'd the boiler and controls. I have also contacted Honeywell technical also but the line constantly cuts off due to "high call volume" you never get through to anyone. Both manuals are useless in explaining. I know how OpenTherm should work and I am used to inverter air conditioning systems match the output to the heat/cool demand.

Kind Regards
Richard.
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Boiler relay

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I have a wood pellet boiler to provide the hot water for my house I am thinking about putting the evohome system in.
The way the wood pellet boiler works is that it sends out power to the MV to when it as built up the temperature in the boiler and then it triggers the pump to come on.

The question I have is if I use the power signal that the boiler sends out to the MV as the feed for the boiler relay would that cause any issues with it as it will be interment signal (there will be no power most of the time).

I can not use the boiler relay signal as the live to the boiler as the boiler has to be controlled by it own circuit board.

HR92 Observations on temperature and control processing

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1. Now I have the ability to do an IR Image assessment (thanks PaulO for the FLIR link) I have discovered in some instances of my 14 HR92's that the ambient temperature around them does not correspond with the set temperature or displayed temperature and typically some (but not all) of the HR92's read about 1°C higher than actual. So have have used the calibration facility to remove 1°C (setting = -1) where the HR92 is over reading.

2. What's been happening is there are a few locations where as I call it, a micro-climate exists around the HR92, for example one is in the corner of a room with little or no air movement around it and I can now see this creates a hotter spot and the offset is now corrected for. So you may wish to consider the same scenarios in your installations. Of course you can compensate by increasing the zone temperature to above that expected, perhaps 23°C for an achieved 21°C ambient.

3. Recently I set only one zone to come on early; our bedroom and heard the valve open at 04:00 (actually 04:02) as programmed, the heating began as I lay watching the room temperature projected on the ceiling (:)) but to my surprised I heard the valve close a little after about 10-mins, the room turn-around time is about 20-mins from cold, then it turned (I presume) the heat off even more as it approached temperature. I found this interesting because it was the only zone on at that time, so why constrict water flow to achieve heat control, why not use the TPI to turn off demand earlier and leave the valve open? Interesting control logic I think.

Evohome Wifi with relay box and 6x HR92 valve heads £421.44 inc VAT

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Just fitted my Evohome kit supplied by PlumbCenter - their 20% off first order code (FIRSTSHOP20) got me the whole lot for my house for £421.44 inc VAT.
Product code: 312711 Honeywell evohome Starter Kit
Photo shows the old style display / wifi box and only 5 valve heads, but it is actually the newer WIFI display now with the relay boiler control box, a 4 pack of heads and two individual ones for 6 in total.

Seemed to me to be at least £50-60 cheaper than the next nearest price I could find.

Wanted: Single HR92 Evohome radiator valve head

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As subject, if you have a spare you're not going to use, let me put it to good use! :)
Price inc P&P to Norwich, UK, ta.

Radiator balancing woth HR92s

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Hi,

Would like to check/balance my system. I have 12 zones (14 rads), all with HR92s on.

In practise only half of these zones are used heavly (Spare rooms etc are set to low heating) Therefore should i balance my rads as if some of the zones are not calling for heat (A typical morning/evening) or just whack all zones to 25c?

Thanks

How to use 'Custom' quick action in evohome app

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Hi all,

I've had my evohome system for a couple of weeks now and been messing around with the app getting to know the various options it offers. One thing I haven't quite got my head round is a use case for the custom quick action available in the app. Can anyone help explain the scenario in which I might use that?

TIA!

Evohome wiring

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Hi,

I've just purchased evohome and am getting my head round the wiring required. At the moment I have a combi boiler driving to heating zones, where zone-1 is for UFH in the kitchen and zone-2 is the radiators in the rest of the house. This is in a S-Plan configuration with 2x2-port valves isolating each zone.

I've attached the existing wiring diagram, and a diagram which shows the new setup with evohome. The 2-port valve for the radiators will be disconnected from power and permanently latched open, leaving just the 2-port valve for the UFH.

Does the wiring diagram look correct. It seems simple enough, just want to make sure that I'm not missing anything?
Thanks,
Don

Existing wiring Existing Wiring.jpg
Evohome wiring new-evohome.jpg
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Evohome display / remote sensing questions

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Just got an Evohome setup (wifi display, boiler relay on combi boiler and 6x HR92). Generally loving it, a few questions arise after living with it for a little bit:

1) Is there any way to have the backlight of the Wifi screen (ATC928G3000) turn off completely? I can't seem to manage it from the settings screens, despite the options seeming to imply that there are timeouts to turn it off. The room I have it in at the moment is used for projection TV, so the additional ambient light from the display ruins contrast. I'd rather not stick it in a cupboard or another room.

2) I notice that the Wifi screen temperature readout is pretty wildly off. Usually looks to be 24-26'C on mine, varies with handling. Does this make it pointless to calibrate it? When I saw this delta vs ambient I decided to ignore this temperature in my initial setup and am only using the remote sensors in the HR92s, which leads me to:

3) In the lounge where I have the Wifi screen the two HR92s are in poor, partially enclosed locations which in practice seems to mean the room temperature reaches optimum comfort level but then drops before their own local climate does, leading to a slight feeling of chill. To correct this I think I'd need to use a remote sensors, which I guess means either the one in the screen (assuming I can resolve 1) and 2) ) , or adding a T87RF or DTS92 (any other options?). In this situation is fiddling with the offset of the HR92 likely to be fruitless, and just result in a room which initially gets a little too warm and then drops off to the comfort temperature?

4) Is there any reason to prefer the T87RF or DTS92, other than cost (DTS92) or arguably aesthetic design (T87RF)?

Many thanks for any advice.

Is there a dummies guide to setting up Domoticz for Evohome?

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Hi,

As the title says, i have read and read and tried but cant understand what i need to download, run etc! im usually very good at tech, but my computer code is a different story

New Build, New Boiler, Opentherm??

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Hi all

About to move into a new build house, i have already got the honeywell evohome, and was told that the new build will have a Vaillant boiler fitted, so i thought it would be fine and dandy getting hold of a VR33 and getting the opentherm working.

Went round today for a look to find this hiding in a cupboard Utility (1 of 1).jpg :(

Ive done a bit of googling and it looks like it has the innards of an ecotec plus 412.

After looking through the installer manual i can not find the Auxiliary EBUS edge connector.

So the question is, is opentherm out the question??? oo is there another way i can get it working?

Cheers

Jay
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Ariston boiler "auto" mode and Evohome

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My Ariston Clas HE boiler has the following "Auto" mode. I'm wondering if it makes sense to have this mode engaged with evohome (boiler relay plus TRVs)?

"Auto button - Temperature adjustment activation
The AUTO function enables boiler operation to be adapted to environmental conditions and to the type of system it is installed on.
Comfortable temperature is reached inside the room in the quickest way possible, without wasting money, energy or e ciency, while substantially reducing the amount of wear experienced by the components.
Your installer will advise you on the devices connectable to the boiler and will program it according to the system.
In normal boilers the water temperature inside the heating elements is usually set to a high value (70-80°C), thereby ensuring e ective heating during the few really cold winter days. It then becomes excessive on less cold days (of which there are many) more typical of the autumn and winter seasons. This leads to excessive room heating after the thermostat has been switched o , resulting in energy waste and uncomfortable conditions inside the room.
The AUTO function “takes control” of the boiler and selects the best operating regime based on environmental conditions, external devices connected to the boiler and the performance required. It constantly decides at which power level to operate based on the environmental conditions and the room temperature required."

Wireless Door Sensor Recomendations

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Hi,

I'm looking for some advice or someone willing to share their experience.

I am installing a wireless door sensor to remotely monitor the status of an external door. I'm happy with building the remote indicator board which shows LEDs for the status of the door, Green = Closed, Yellow = Open, Red = Open for extended period. This I have prototyped using an Arduino and have all the logic working, I just need to remotely sense the status of the door.

I have some experience using Lloytron wireless devices which previously has allowed me to sense a bell press or magnectic contact being opened. Unfortunately for this project I need to sense when the door has been closed as well as when it is opened. The Lloytron sensor only sends on the door opening.

I looked at MiHome products from Energenie.co.uk and their MIHO033 wireless sensor seems ideal as it sends a message on opening and closing. Unfortunately I cannot find any example code to capture the message. Looking around the web they have a remote transceiver designed for connection to a Raspberry Pi (PI-MOTE2) - I can probably physically connect this to an Arduino but need help on the code to read messages received. - I don't want to use a Raspberry Pi for this project as it is over kill and cost prohibitive.

Are their any other commercial off the shelf wireless magnetic sensors that can send a message on opening and closing which can easily be interfaced to an Arduino? Looking around there are a lot of products that will interface to a gateway and the the web, but again this is over kill and cost prohibitive. I did see products such as the Xiaomi Door sensor(http://www.banggood.com/2pcs-Origina...p-1017541.html) but before I start buying too many samples I thought I would see if anyone has already invented this wheel. :-)


SO, I'm looking for a commercial wireless magnetic door contact which generates a message on opening AND closing which can easily be received and decoded by an Arduino.

Many thanks in advance for your help.

MikeM
IT Tech

Evohome install advice

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Hi All,

Looks like finally going to order Evohome and just wanted some advice.

We have a thee floor home with a combo boiler and Systemate unit. We currently have Hive installed but want to move to room/zone based.

On the top floor we have two wall radiators with TRV's.
1st floor we have 6 radiators with TRV's and one radiator that has no TRV on the landing.
Ground floor we have 5 radiators and one radiator that has no TRV in the hallway.
We have several under unit heaters and underfloor heating, but we will leave these separate for now.

Am i correct in assuming that those radiators that currently have no TRV's we should leave as they are and that whenever a radiator with an Evo' TRV calls heat, they will heat up (and cool down) depending on that or any other Evo' TRV calling heat? Happy with these radiators warming or cooling without control as they are in hallways.

So if we just replace the TRV's in the house directly with Evo TRV's on a one for one basis we will be good (total of 13)?

We also have Samsung Smarthings and a few Echo's around the house so will be looking to hook all this up.

Thanks for help with this, anyone know on a good deal on a 13 pack with controller!

Solar PV & Device Control - Heating & Air con? Zigbee?

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Hi all,

First time poster and HA newbie.

Moved into a pre-1920s chalet bungalow and trying to retro-fit it with better heating and cooling controls plus I have installed a 4kw Solar PV Solaredge system.

The solar PV system came with an iBoost for dumping excess generation into the hotwater, even in these short days and working from home with a wife and two little ones most days the iboost does some dumping.

Also I am fitting evohome, so far i have only fitted 4 x HR92 Rad valves and Controller and have a hot water kit, 4 more HR92 and BDR91 on order.

Plus i have installed Warmup E-UFH in the upstairs bedrooms.


Aim: I want to be able to dump excess PV generation into an Infrared Heating panel in my small office room (in winter) and dump excess generation into Air Conditioning in the summer, of course both would have a thermostat in series. I will leave Infrared panels and thermostats to another discussion thread as i know they dont heat air but if the air was say 20 Degrees and there is excess solar PV then i'd like the panel to come on. Likewise, if the air is 25 degrees in the bedrooms in summer and excess PV is generated i'd like the Air Con units to come on regardless of occupancy but i wouldnt want them to come on at 25 degrees if there is no excess solar and no occupancy.

I have a Zigbee controller installed in the Solaredge Inverter but the Solaredge range of device control are expensive and i'd have to get the expensive Solaredge installers in to to add components.

There are alternatives to iboost such as Solarcache, which have additional load switching but again they are expensive and it seems these companies go bust very quickly as product demand just isnt there.

any ideas on how i could control these depending on excess PV? Could i do anything with the iboost secondary load switch that is unused? or are there any Zigbee devices i could hook?

thanks in advance!

Alternative to Honeywell BDR91 (RF switching unit)

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I'm looking for an alternative to a BDR91, or finding a unit capable of signalling one.

I want to be able to detect 230v in the house and then send a switching signal to an external unit approx 4 meters away to close a contact.
As I understand it, BDR91 can only be paired with other Honeywell controllers.

Consensus on ideal "away" temperature?

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Hi folks,

I've done a bit of searching, and can't seem to find consensus on what constitutes a good "away" temperature. By this, I mean "what temperature should I set my Evohome to when I go away for an extended period (days or weeks)".

The default seems way too high. Nest has a "safety" temperature of 7 degrees (seems a bit too low?).

Basically a compromise between not too cold (get that musty smell, takes 2 days for the house to warm up when you come back) and not too expensive on the gas.

What do you think?

Evohome Component Life

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One of my HR92s is suffering from a random sensor comms fault. I will probably have to move it into an area where I use the Evotouch as the sensor. My system will be '3' in April 17. Evohome isn't a cheap control system so I would hope that the components would be built to last for more than 3 years - if not, then any savings are quickly eliminated. What component life are others hoping for?
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