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New online Evohome monitoring/logging service?

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http://www.cresima.co.uk/

Does anyone here know anything about this or is involved in the beta testing?

It seems it could be an easy way to get historical data from our Evohome systems, bearing in mind some users won't have enough expertise to run scripts or mess around under the bonnet.

floor heating problem

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Hello, about a year ago Evohome was installed in our home. It worked great (8 rooms).
But somehow after this summer it seems that our living room (which has floor heating) is heated when another room needs heating.

For instance today: studyroom - 22c / livingroom - 18c. But I guess the VC8015 is set to open, so the living room was way above 20c.

Any ideas?

Thanks! Martijn

UFH setup with BDR91 relays and without HCC80R - impact?

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I have had an evohome setup for a while now, using zone valves per floor and per UFH zone, and have been considering replacing with HR92's. As I've looked into my setup in more detail I realise that the UFH aspect is unconventional.

Basically it is using a Heatmiser UF2 controller connected to 3 relays, in turn connected to the manifold actuators.

The system does basically work....set points come on and the floor heats up, though boiler demand lags behind the set points which is not what I would expect with the Optimum Start option set. There are other oddities which I dont know whether or not they are related:
  • boiler is often fired for some part of a period when I can see that all zone set points are below actual temp.
  • 1 of the UFH zones sometimes remains warm long after it should be off, longer than a natural cool down would suggest.


My question is, is this a fundamentally flawed setup? What specifically would I gain from using the recomended Evo UFH controller that i am missing by using a 3rd party controller?

In principle I would still expect the UFH relays to honour the 'optimum start' setting and attempt to warm up the floors in advance, though I realise without 'knowing' they are connected to a UFH system they might apply the 'wrong' learning logic. Is there more to it than that?

thanks

batteries for hr92s

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so my system has been in a year using the batteries supplied in the box with the hr92's. I've had my first couple of hr92's reporting low battery - then go flat a day later.

what batteries do people use? I have read some mention of lithium rechargeables but wary of this, as low current drain over long period is not in my experience a good scenario for them. is there a particular high end non-rechargeable that works significantly better than the usual 100packs from maplins or similar?

ta

Evohome wireless protocol

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I came across this document quite some time ago but didn't read through it until now, and although its based on the original 8 zone Evohome black and white model of 2010 I suspect most if not all of the 868Mhz Ramses II over the air protocol is similar if not identical.

I thought I'd share it for those of you who like to get a low level understanding of how something works like I do. (you know who you are :cool: ) It's by the home automation company Tridium, so a lot of it is specific to their software and how it interfaces with Evohome via an HGS80, but it gives some insight into what can and can't be done over the Ramses II protocol.

https://www.tridiumeurope.com/storag...1354788406.pdf

It's a long read, so here are a few bits that I thought were interesting:

Quote:

Q: Why do some points such as Boiler Demand and Upper Setpoint Limit in the EvoTouch controller
remain stale for a long time?
A: The EvoTouch controller only transmits some of its point data every 60 minutes unless there has been a
change to it.
This implies that a heat demand was only sent from Evotouch to BDR91 once every 60 minutes if there is no change in demand, however Paul's Domoticz dump recently showed a regular 20 minute heat demand update when the demand remained the same. Perhaps latter models of controller reduced this to 20 minutes so that the consequences of a lost heat demand transmission were minimised ? (EG only 20 minutes of additional run on instead of 60)

Quote:

Q: When I set the time in the EvoTouch controller using the Menu…Setting Menu…Time/Date Setting, the
controller time was changed OK but the next time I looked at the controller, the time had reverted back
to its old setting. Why is this?
A: As part of its routine request cycle, the driver will update each EvoTouch system controller with its
NiagaraAX station’s current date and time. This ensures that all the systems are synchronised to the
same time. You should go to the NiagaraAX station platform, update its time and date and the
EvoTouch controller will automatically follow it.
It looks like another device can do a push update of the system time on the Evotouch via Ramses II - whether that is still the case on a Wi-Fi model that supports internet based time update is unclear.

Quote:

EvoHome Monitoring:
A number of items of EvoHome information can be monitored. These are as follows:
EvoTouch Controller:
Current Mode Current [Time/Date] Password Mode
Outdoor Temperature Boiler Demand Max Valve Position
Fault Logbook Controller Software level
Apparently the full Fault logbook can be retrieved via Ramses II. (Shown in detail later in the document)

Quote:

Domestic Hot Water Zone:
Current State Current [Time/Date] Schedule
DHW Setpoint DHW Setpoint Differential DHW Temperature
DHW set point and differential can be retrieved by Ramses II, but not via the Web API.

Quote:

Known problems and observations
Here are known problems and observations of the driver:
Schedule Period Time Restriction
For both the zone and DHW schedules avoid period start or end times between 02:56 and 02:59 inclusive.
A period that ends at 02:55 and a period that starts at 03:00 are both OK
Apparently it is "bad" to have any scheduled set point occur between 02:56 and 02:59. :D Of course the Evotouch itself doesn't let you do this since you can only set on 10 minute boundaries, nor does the iPhone/Android app, but if you set an override using Domoticz you can use both non standard set point temperatures (such as 21.3 - which does in fact work) and non standard set point times, like 14:28. (Which I think also works, but I haven't tested it) I wonder if not using this time period is related to handling of daylight savings changes ? This might trigger a bug that no longer exists in the current models of course.

Quote:

All the radio transmitters in the EvoHome Room Control System components are classified as “Short
Range Devices” or SRD’s and as such they have a number of operational restrictions which include that
they operate in shared bands and are not permitted to cause harmful interference to other radio services.
All the devices operate in the G1 frequency band (868.000 – 868.600 MHz) and they are restricted
to ≤25mW ERP (Effective Radiated Power) with a ≤1% Duty Cycle.

Due to the single channel band, to prevent excessive interference between devices, regulations require that
the devices do not exceed a 1% transmission duty cycle. This means that each device can only be
transmitting 1% of the time. This impacts on how fast the application in each device can send data over the
air. The HGS80 serial interface is similarly restricted to the regulations and it is a throttle or regulator to the
amount of traffic that the EvoHome driver can transmit to the EvoTouch controller. If the HGS80 is sent
data at a rate faster than it is permitted to transmit over the air, then messages will fail.
We knew about the 1% airtime restriction, but it's interesting to see that it is enforced by the HGS80 and presumably HGI80 as well - this has implications for systems like Domoticz trying to send out commands to the system - if it tries to send them too quickly the interface will just drop them.

Quote:

The battery powered devices, which include the Outdoor Sensor (HB85), DHW Sensor (CS92A), Radiator
Controller (HR80) and Room Sensor (HCW82) are subject to the same 1% duty cycle regulation but they
also limit their transmission rate in order to maximise battery life. Messages from these devices are
optimised so that some data points (such as a temperature value) report only on change of value and some
data points (such as battery condition) are only transmitted on a time interval of several hours.
I wonder if a cylinder heating up too quickly causes too many updates to be sent which then causes the CS92 to have to go "quiet" for a while due to exceeding its 1% airtime quota ? What I can't find anywhere is over what period of time this 1% quota is measured, and how long it has to wait before sending again if the air time quota is exceeded.

Quote:

Some of the request messages require the receiving device, which in this case is the EvoTouch controller
to acknowledge with corresponding data and some of the request messages are unacknowledged. Some
of the request messages send data to the controller such as in the case of time schedule transmission.
So as we speculated some messages to the Evotouch are acknowledged but some are sent without expectation of an acknowledgement to the sender. I'm sure temperature readings from temperature sensors would fall into this latter category.

Quote:

The Evotouch controller has a feature to prevent unauthorised changes being made by enabling a
password-protection mode. This mode is not part of the normal Evotouch features and is not documented
in standard user or installation guides. It can nevertheless, be used by building managers and others and it
is also supported by the EvoHome driver.
I've never used the black and white Evotouch but my interpretation of the above is that it did NOT provide a user password feature in the GUI like the current colour and colour Wi-Fi models have, but it appears that the password restrictions can be enabled and disabled via Ramses II messages ? That is interesting to say the least, if it still applies on current models.

Quote:

Note: The default password is “evohome” (without quotes and is case-sensitive) and this default
password is always active. It is possible to enter a new (user) password which would be active in
addition to the default password. On a factory reset, password protection will revert to disabled and
the user-defined password will revert to the default password.
A default password that can't be changed or disabled in additional to a user set password ? Tsk tsk. Surely that isn't the case with current models ?

Quote:

Sending a Message
The EvoTouch controller can receive a number of text messages which are viewed by the user from menus
in the controller. There are several ways to initiate a message to one or all EvoTouch controller systems
from the driver:
Apparently Ramses II can be used to send a text message to the controller that will pop up on the screen, presumably in a modal dialog. This is pretty neat if true!

I know one gripe people have is that faults are not brought to the users attention well enough, (as any modal error message disappears if an intermittent fault resolves itself) I could imagine a feature in Domoticz which monitored the Fault Logbook and if certain types of faults appeared would then send a custom text alert back to the controller - effectively giving us some custom control over alert display in a round about sort of way.

For that matter, if Domoticz read the fault log book regularly it could also send a push notification or email to the user via the normal Domoticz notification methods when a new fault logbook entry was found. I'm sure this would be well received by some users, as quite a few people have complained that the fault logbook is not made available either by the phone apps or through email alerts. I wonder if DanD is reading this. :cool:

Anyway, I thought those were some of the interesting points in that document.

Evohome with basic oil boiler

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I'm thinking about an evohome setup, however I want to check if I need to change my plubming or electrics first.

My current heating setup has a dual channel timer. One channel fires the oil boiler which is a gravity fed vented cylinder. The second channel triggers the CH pump. No valves are in the system, so to heat the house the timer has to have both the HW and CH come on at the same time.

If I get two evohome remote relays (probably one as part of the hot water kit), can the evohome controller be told to fire the HW boiler whenever the heating is on? Or do I need to make changes to my home heating install in order to have the CH remote relay close both circuits in hardware?

Strange HR92 behaviour

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I've had Evohome installed for just over a month now and in generally it is great. As with anything gadgety, there's a tendency to play with it too much and to over analyse every little anomaly. In the most part, I think I'm just letting it do it's thing. Admittedly, I have been playing with schedules a lot since I got it, but I have been making less adjustments the more we live with it.

That being said, I have noticed a strange anomaly in one of my zones which seems a little too 'perfect' to be just a series of one-offs. So the porch in our house is scheduled to be 10degrees from 10pm at night until 9am the next day. Nothing exciting here. The issue I'm having is that my graphs show the following 'targets' which do not correlate with my schedule (in any of its iterations):

5deg 17:00 - 5th October
5deg 18:00 - 7th November
8deg 06:00 - 8th November
5deg 12:00 - 17th November

The reason this seems odd to me is that 1) the temperatures seem very specific and 2) the times are exactly on the hour. I can tell you with a good degree of certainty that I have not made typo's with my schedule and would be hard pressed to accept that as an explanation to this. I could maybe put one or at a push two of these down to my stupidity, but not four :). Am I seeing some kind of 'fail safe' type behaviour? I will admit to clicking the button on one of the HR's in another location and noticing it seemingly 'boot up' in front of my very eyes, although haven't noticed this with the porch. I don't know if that's a different issue though.

Any suggestions?

How to frost protect an Evohome system ?

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This might sound like a silly question when we all know that Evohome schedules zones to 5 degrees when "off" and that if any zone drops below 5 degrees the boiler will still come on even in heating off mode and that particular radiator will open and warm up to keep the room above 5 degrees.

But there are two aspects of frost protection that this does not solve - frost protecting the boiler, and frost protecting underfloor pipes in a crawl space that are potentially a lot colder than inside a room where an HR92 is measuring and may suffer from wind chill effects if the crawl space is ventilated.

Most boilers these days have built in frost protection that measures the air temperature inside the boiler casing and if it drops below 5 degrees the boiler will come on and keep running until the return flow pipe reaches about 30 degrees then shut off again. My boiler is ancient and has no such protection, however it is quite easy to retrofit a frost protect kit consisting of a a 5 degree air temperature sensor mounted in the boiler cupboard (usually electronic to make sure it is accurate, such as a Drayton RTS3) connected in series with a pipe stat attached to the return flow.

The idea being that you only want the boiler to fire if there is a risk of freezing - eg air temperature below 5 degrees, but you don't want it to keep running until the room its in warms up above 5 degrees (which might never happen if it was in a garage) its sufficient for it to run until the return flow reaches about 30 degrees - enough to warm up the boiler and pipes but not enough to put unwanted heat into the house or run unnecessarily.

With such a system you could add an additional air temp sensor in your crawl space (in parallel with the one in the boiler closet) so that if the crawl space dipped below 5 degrees the boiler would also run until the return flow reached 30 degrees.

Right away we have a problem with the HR92's, which will prevent this traditional scheme from working... :(

When the house is scheduled off with a conventional system, as the rooms cool the TRV's will all open well before the rooms get down to a temperature where freezing is a concern, but because the timer keeps the boiler off no heat is put out. Thus when a frost protect system kicks in (through detecting <5 degrees either in the crawl space or in the boiler closet) and fires the boiler by bypassing the timer all the TRV's in the house will already be wide open thus the flow of warm water will pass through all pipes and radiators warming them all up to 30 degrees (or whatever the return pipe stat is set to) which is enough to prevent freezing but without wasting too much heat or warming the house up. This will protect both boiler and underfloor pipes.

But with HR92's unless they each individually detect their room has dropped below 5 degrees the valve will remain firmly shut so any frost protect system will only be able to protect the boiler and not crawl space piping as none of the pipes will be able to flow. Has anyone thought about a solution to this problem ? Or do you all just have well insulated pipes ? (I don't! :rolleyes: )

With an S-Plan system you have the additional complication that something has to open the heating zone valve when frost protect kicks in otherwise the water wouldn't be able to flow through the radiators and pipes anyway... with a traditional S-Plan two relay config you could wire the (external) frost protect system to open the heating zone valve which would in turn fire the boiler, but on my three BDR relay config I have a separate relay firing the boiler which complicates matters considerably. As now I need yet another relay - a DPST as most frost stats have only one switched live output which would have to independently run the heating zone valve and boiler. Not that it matters anyway because even if I open the zone valve the HR92's will be closed!

At the moment I've resigned myself to the idea that with HR92's frost protecting the crawl space piping electronically is not feasible as I would not be able to get them flowing, so adding insulation is my only option... :( I can frost protect the boiler which I will do, but all that will do is warm up the boiler and boiler closet, it won't help with the underfloor pipes.

Does anyone else worry about frost protection of pipes under the floor in particular or is it just me! :cool:

Newbie with tons of questions!!

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Hi all,

I am new to the forum and home automation so some of my questions may be pretty basic!!

When I build my new extension I want to add some automation and at the moment I am going through the research phase. So far I have set up Openhab with an MQTT server an I am using this to control some PCB based 5v relays (via Arduino) that can be used to switch loads. I understand though that it is more usual to have 12v DIN mounted relays and I am therefore wondering how best to use the 5v relays to switch a 12 v load to the DIN mounted relays - does anyone have any advice on this please?

Thanks

D

Advice needed on Fibaro and voice controls

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I am looking for some opinions on my next moves with my home automation.
Currently I have Fibaro HC2 that controls my boiler, an energy monitor, motion sensor, some radiator stats and a few other devices I still need to integrate, my experiences so far with Fibaro have not been great, the HC2 failed within a year so went back for repair, on return my scenes were ok but no devices, some I have reconnected but a couple just refuse to be seen (i have a replacement for the relay module that handles the boiler that I hope to install soon). All in all I have not found it easy to get devices, especially non Fibaro ones to work so am not exactly in love with the HC2 right now.
I was hoping to get either an Amazon Echo or a Google Home unit to play with over xmas but it seems like neither will be straight forward to get integrated with the HC2.
So basically I am looking for some opinions on where people are going currently with whole house automation with voice control (and something more than just lights on etc.)
Cheers
Paul

Evohome is Noisy - please help me

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Hi Everyone

I am really happy and really disappointed in equal measure with Honeywell Evohome. A few weeks ago I installed 10 x HR92 units throughout the house. Two of the radiator valves required adapters and all went fine.

I decided not to use hot water control - I don't really see the benefit for our family for this.

In terms of an Evohome review, I would state that this system is a revelation. We have a four storey house and the fine grained control in each room is wonderful. We have had much fun tweaking the settings to get this just right for each room. However the Evohome TRVs are incredibly noisy. This is really significant and pretty much means evohome is useless for us. I have two small children and they were a big reason for the investment - when necessary I wanted to keep their rooms warm at night without heating the whole house. However the noise from the HR92s wake them up on every adjustment. At some point I will post a link to a video to demonstrate how loud the Evohome TRVs actually are. There is seemingly nothing I can do - I have used a really thick silicone grease on the cogs, I have made sure each one is firmly screwed down, I have tried using the "optimise" mode, I have disassembled one of the units to see if I could replace the motor - nothing stops the whine that comes from the units.

Honeywell provided this response to me when I asked what could be done:

Quote:

"The product was designed with noise reduction in mind and does compare favourably with both older designs and competitive products.
The force required to close some radiator valve is really quite high. The head needs a lot of torque to operate them, this need a high gear ratio to generate the force and puts a considerable strain on the gearbox, this is what generates the noise.
To minimise the operational noise the system was designed to only fully open or close the valve at the start and end of a heat demand at other times it minimised the adjustment to single steps and its operation is very quiet.

You can make some compromises to the operation:

The system will normally optimise the heating start so the room is warm when you wake, obviously this will mean opening while you are asleep. If optimisation is switched off it will operate like an old heating system and only open once you are already awake.
A second option would be to remove the head from a noise sensitive room but leave the rest of the house zoned.
Finally for silent operation the zone could be modified to use an electrically operated MT8 head. This is thermally operated and completely silent but would need a BDR91 relay and Room sensor T87RF. The BDR91 should be installed outside the sleeping area as the relay will click as it operates and if the owner is very sensitive to noise this will be heard."
I simply do not believe that they invested that much in to the User Experience and ignored the noise issue. I do not believe their comment "designed with noise reduction in mind".

They mention gearing - if they seriously wanted to fix this issue they would use a far more favourable gearing ratio. This would mean it would take longer to open and close the valves but that wouldn't matter at all and the stress on the motor and the gearbox would be far less. Even if it took 1 minute to open or close the valves, this would have no major bearing on the performance of the system.

Come on Honeywell - if you want Evohome to be a serious contender then you have to address this issue.

My final plea (before I have to return this whole system) - has anyone solved this problem? Does anyone have any other suggestions as to how to silence the noise from the HR92? Any ideas would be gratefully received.

Cheers
Sentry1

Future predictions for smarthome

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Have been thinking about how the smart home tech will evolve over the next 2, 5 and 10 years

This new platform of HomeKit, Amazon Alexa, Google home and Smart things seems to be the future but surely all cannot survive? What about professional cabled installation home automation will that die or thrive. Within a decade will we have autonomous AI devices that know what we want and just get on with it?

First evening with Evo

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Hi all,

System installed today, all runnng well.

Few questions-

I'm using the opentherm bridge to control the boiler - as I speak the boiler is off but the pump is still running, boiler water temp is 37c. And two of my hr92s have valves open about 40% but room temp has been reached. This looks a little odd to me, or is it doing its "thing".

One further question as the valves are only half open I'm getting a lot of water noise from the valves, it disappears if the valve is fully open. Pump is on its lowest setting. Normal too?

Many thanks

Lightwave or evohome?

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Hi, I'm new to the forum,thanks for having me.Basically I was all set to go for evohome then lightwave was mentioned, any advice for me based on the following. I have an old 1950s house with 13 radiators in total. I spend roughly £1200 PA on gas heating. I have looked at evohome as an option for a new smart heating mechanism but to cover the new wifi controller and subsequent trvs it woud be almost £1000. Really all I need is my house split into upstairs/downstairs as my biggest loss is keeping the heating on around 19.5/20 overnight via our wireless cm927 honeywell controller kept in our bedroom (we have 2 small children so need consistent heat level for them). This means the downstairs warms to this level also, bar some minor manual permanent tweaks on indivdual radiators such as dining room. Is there a better option if i want to minimise zones and still have control, even over 2 different levels? Also is this difficult to install or could I do it myself and what happens my valiant ecotec 831 combi boiler and water heating if I do this? Many thanks

Configuring BDR91 as central heating relay

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Hello. Would someone be kind enough to point me at instructions for configuring a BDR91 as a central heating relay? In the installation guide there are instructions for various configurations but not as a simple heating demand relay as far as I can see.

I have a non standard installation with a gravity fed hot water tank, there is a single flow pipe from the boiler which is split via a T piece to HW and CH and there are two returns, there is a pump on the return from the radiators. I would like the pump not to come one when there is HW demand only.

Currently the pump is connected to the boiler control BDR91 so it comes on when there is demand from CH or HW. I have a spare BDR91 I just need to know how to configure it to respond to CH demand only then I can move the pump to it. The only valve in the system shuts off the flow of hot water to the tank when there is no demand to prevent over heating, this is controlled by the BDR91 that came with the hot water kit.

Apologies if this is covered elsewhere, I have searched high and low for the answer with no success.

Other than this minor issue it all works perfectly.

Thanks in advance

Graham

Evohome firmware update

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Before lodging a support request with Honeywell,does anyone know if the firmware in the controller units will automatically update?

I recently purchased an extra controller and it has arrived with the old/original formware version.

I'd like to get it updated so that I can clear error logs and have the manual zone adjustments show up on the controller.

Pump overrun

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I’m not sure if i have lost my pump overrun feature, i had the hot water on today and boiler was running at 78C, Evo HWstat reached temp and boiler cut off, and then the pump switched off about 10 seconds later. I would have thought at such a high temp i would have seen it stay on much longer like it did pre evo.

I had pump overrun switched on at the evo controller for 2 minutes, and the BDR did stay on with the valve open, but the pump being powered by the boiler was off, so pointless.

Just thinking as i have disconnected the orange and grey cables from the valves in the junction box, have i now stopped the overrun? Looking at Honeywells pump overrun wiring the Orange cables are connected to the switched live on the boiler. but Fig 9 in the evo book says "if a wireless boiler relay is used the Grey/Orange cables are not required"

S Plan design, with Opentherm controlling the boiler and BDR runnin ghot water valve.

Many thanks

Evohome and Zone Valves

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Hello

I have at the moment 3 heating Zones which are supplied by 3 zone valves controlled by wireless stats simply any stat calling for heat opens its zone valve and then end position limits on Valve switch boiler on and when stat is satisfied valve closes and boiler shuts off

I am now going to install Evo I have an Evo connected pack which includes a Controller a Internet Gateway and a BDR91 Relay

I think I can use the controller as a temp sensor for one Zone say living room and use the BDR91 to switch the Zone valve and leave the end limits on valve to switch boiler

I was then going to get 2 Honeywell Stats and BDR91s like these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-Y...ywords=evohome

and use these for the other 2 Zones using the Stats as sensors and the BDRs to switch the Zone valves again leaving the end limits on valves to switch boiler

Basically can i have multiple Stats bound to EVO Controller and switching multiple Zone valves via BDR91 relays

Thanks for advise

mylesm

Something odd happening

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Hi,

Only day 3 of full system, but I can't figure out what's happening- I have two zones which each have one rad each, the room temp recoded by hr92 is 0.5c below set point, boiler and pump are on but opentherm bridge has the water in the system running at 24c, surely that's not going to add any heat to a room?

New house - blank sheet

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Been a while since I posted. I'm moving soon, to a 'modern house' which does not have any 'advanced features'. The house is actually a bungalow so now is the time to start planning what to include to meet our needs for the future. By modern I mean around 1980. I'd welcome any opinions people have or suggestions on what to look at.

My current thinking is:
1: Heating control: I've used Heatmiser in the past (and in fact wrote a review when it was first released). I still like it, however, I really want to move to each room having it's own zone which would be a lot of work as they don't have a TRV. I'll need to add eight motorised valves and a load of repiping. So, I've had a look at Evohome, it looks good and being TRV based is easier for me to implement even if I swap all the TRVs for new ones into the bargain. Prices for the two systems seem to be close enough not to worry.

2: Hoping to go down the road of solar panels during next year so I've watched Mark's review and picked some names up from two other people I know who deployed about three years ago. So, need something that can integrate monitoring.

3: Audio distribution. Currently using Squeezeboxes and LMS running on a Raspberry Pi 2B, all media ripped as FLACs. Probably, won't change this in the early stages but as I have Plex (with a dlna server in it) definite options for the future. Seems to be plenty of power in the little RPi 2B for my needs despite it running Plex, LMS, Owncloud (shared contacts, calendar and automated backup of PCs).

4: Control of other devices, timed or not, leads me to an HA controller. I can use a RPi or other alternatives (I also have a Zipato Zipabox).

5: I'd like to try to integrate it all as much as possible, with as much management/control in house. There seems to be a drive to use cloud services these days, not keen on having my key elements managed on a server I cannot control (eg: Heatmiser, Zipato etc), however if that is the only choice will go to it.

6: Planning on mix of CAT5 and wifi. CAT5 between router, GbE switch and maybe one termination per room. Wifi for printer, end devices, visitors, iMac and DPF.

7: End devices for management are iPhone and iPad.

8: PCs run Arch linux, RPis run Arch Linux, Imac dual boots between OSX and Arch Linux.

9: Security integration - not thought it through yet. Place has an alarm but my assumption is that I will need to update it. (Added this extra bit)
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