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HR92 failed

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I think one of my HR92s has failed. I wonder whether anyone has seen this failure mode before:

It has a setpoint of 13 degrees (confirmed via App, controller, and display on the device itself).

Room temp is 17 degrees, so there should be no heat demand.

But about two days ago the actuator came on full, and has stayed there ever since.

I can see in Domoticz that it's showing a 100% demand. But the funny thing is, it isn't triggering boiler demand. The valve has opened to 100% and the room is heating up, but only when there's demand from other zones.



It's the last zone here. Note 100% demand, but the CH valve is closed.

I've tried rebooting the HR92 and rebooting the controller. Also removing the zone and recreating it.

Looks like the HR is dead, but I find the failure mode quite odd!

P.

BDR91 reoccurring fault

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Evening all!
First post, and i have a problem!
Installed everything myself, two BDR91 for hot water and heating, 4 smart TRV's, wifi controller and hotwater tank sensor.
All running ok until approx 1.30am each night when i get a "comms fault, heating valve actuator"
Contacted Honeywell and the said it was because the wifi needed updating! the said they would push an update, nothing has been updated and the fault is now happening more often!
Would appreciate any views!

For Sale - Z-Wave Heating Control

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Z-Wave boiler and thermostat items for sale.
Postage recorded delivery approx £4-5.

Z-Wave Secure Boiler Receiver SSR302 - two channels - £40 or £70 with 1 SRT321 Thermostat (see below)

- Wirelessly control your heating and hot water system.
- Activated using a Z-Wave controller or Thermostat or Thermostat/Timer
- Controls boilers or magnetic valves
- On/Off buttons for manual control of heating and hot water

Z-Wave Secure Boiler Receiver SSR303 - £30 or £60 with 1 SRT321 Thermostat (see below)

- Wirelessly control your heating system's boiler.
- Activated using a Z-Wave controller or Wall Thermostat
- Controls boilers or magnetic valves
- On/Off buttons for manual control

Z-Wave Secure SRT321 Room Thermostat with LCD display - £40 (2 Available)

- Portable Z-Wave thermostat enables wireless control of your heating system.
- Battery operated thermostat can be used in any room
- LCD displays 'set' and actual temperatures

Help! - Creating Custom Web Interface using JSON

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Hi all, I have a programmable custom controller that has network connection and a web interface which mimics the push button actions of the controller. I'd like to create a better GUI as the one provided is pretty basic but I don't have much understanding on how to do this. Can anyone point me in the direction of resources or if there is a programmer out there that can help it would be appreciated. I can do HTML fairly easily and CSS to a certain point but managing JSON is beyond me!

Commands such as this is what is returned when entering the url http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/json/base_status and that should feed into the web interface GUI to set the layout rules.

{
"base_status": {
"status_id": 1,
"unit_name": "",
"buttons": [{
"id": 1,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 2,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 3,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 4,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 5,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 6,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 7,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 8,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 9,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}, {
"id": 10,
"mode": "low",
"rgb": [255, 255, 255],
"css": "rgb(255, 255, 255)",
"label": ""
}]
}
}

Hot Fault Sensor comms fault, there seems to be a pattern

Logging on off

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Is there a way to see a log of zone on/off times?

Replacing X10 with zwave

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I've still a number of DIN mounted X10 switches and dimmers (AD10 / LD11's?) that I'd like to replace with zwave. Looking at these Qubino and Haseman units it would seem that these could be a direct replacement to the X10 unit with no re-wiring. I'm tempted by the Qubino ones - smaller and have addition of temp sensing and power monitoring - but does anyone have any experience of using them or any other Qubino / Haseman products? Reliable?

Malcolm

Evohome S Plan Plus (Plus) setup not exhibiting any Optimimal start characteristics

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Hi,

I have an unusual setup with Zone valves controlling 3 CH circuits (gnd, 1st and 2nd floors, no HR92's at present), a DHW circuit and also a UFH circuit zone valve which further comprises of 4 sub UFH zones each controlled by BDR's controlling the manifold actuator. Boiler demand is wired so that any 1 of these zone valves triggers the boiler via the orange and grey end switch.

Strange, I know, but it has by and large worked for the last few years aside from an ongoing concern that it wasn't benefiting from any optimisation. I've since confirmed this by graphing temperatures and gas useage and I can see that the boiler only ever fires at the same time or shortly after 1 or more zones set point changes above the current zone temp. With optimum start you would expect the boiler to be firing in advance of any zones set point changes, in the case of UFH you would expect that a long time ahead of this. This never happens, boiler demand always coincides with set point demand. I have reset Evohome controller and rebound all devices at least once configuring Optimum Start and/or Optimum Stop on all zones.

I plan on introducing HR92's on a zone by zone basis and introducing a UFH HCC80 controller in due course, but in the meantime is there any fundamental reason why this setup would somehow prevent any form of optimisation? Any ideas on how to enable optimisation with this setup?

thanks

Evohome HR92 Installation Issue

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Hi all,

I have recently bought an Evohome system for my house, which I installed myself in the end, after receiving a quote for over seven hundred pounds from a plumber, which I didn't think was fair, for what he admitted was less than a day's work. I didn't find it too tricky, on the whole, once I got over the fear factor of tinkering with my boiler's innards.

It's a pretty bog-standard setup, of 7 HR92s, grouped into 6 zones, and a BDR91 wired into a combi boiler. The only issue I have is that, due to what I presume to be slightly outsized pins on my radiator valves, I had to leave the HR92s a turn or two from being fully tightened. I discovered that when fully tightened, the HR92 was unable to open the valve, as the pin was fully depressed, even when the black wheel was turned fully anti-clockwise. Unscrewing the HR92 a wee bit alleviated the issue, and the system seems to work extremely well, with actual room temperatures closely following my programmed targets.

I was wondering if having to leave the HR92s was likely to lead to problems, and whether I should perhaps grind a few mm off the valve pins, or even replace the valves?

Automated Home lighting

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Hi sorry I'm sure this question gets asked a lot I have searched the forum and can not find the answer I need.

I am just about to refurbish my entire home and my architect was talking about a lighting system he had used before that was app controlled specifically iOS HomeKit I think. He also said the system worked via Bluetooth and or wireless with a control box being installed next to the main power supply in the home and then the switches having built in wifi or Bluetooth so they can be controlled via a switch on the wall or an app on a smartphone. I have done some research into system like Lurton and Rako also i am aware on the Phillips Hue system. The problem I have none of these seem to be what he was describing.

Can anyone help.

Thanks in advance.

Dan

Message to Tom F

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Sorry for the 'All' but I received a Private Message from a Guest user from this forum - Tom F - as he was guest user I am able to 'reply'

Tom - Sorry but I have not logged in for a while. Hence delay. Not sure if you are having issues still, if so please reply here.



Hello,

I am trying to add my Evohome controller with integrated gateway to the mytotalconnectcomfort portal and I keep getting this message: "Can't register gateway
The registration of your device was unsuccessful. Please verify the internet connection on your device. Once internet connection is restored, register the device as described in the instruction manual."

The controller is connected to my wifi and my internet is working perfectly. I have tried using my iphone as a hotspot to eliminate any issues locally with security on my network, but I get the same result.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Tom F.

Local evohome installers

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Long shot this one - can anybody recommend an installer who can set up evohome for me in the Colchester, Es*** area? I have tried the ones listed on the Honeywell site and they all say they haven't actually fitted any!!!
I'm ready to buy as quite impressed by what the evohome looks like it can deliver. I will be ordering the main kit plus the kit needed to also control my separate hot water tank (not a combi boiler) and install about 14 TRV's which I will then sort in to 12 zones.
Also can anybody give some best advice as to what this should cost just for the installation as above (not including the kit) my boiler is about 3 years old and is a British Gas model plus all my rads currently have manual TRV's on so would assume they would be a straightforward changeover
Thanks for any help
Rob

Evohome S Plan conversion from 3 relay to 2 with no bypass

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This is sort of connected to the S-Plan vs Y-Plan for Evohome thread which is ongoing, but this is separated for clarity.

I am replacing an old boiler with new Worcester Bosch 40 CDi (LPG not that it matters).

My current controls are Evohome with three BDR91 relays controlling CH pump, HW pump and ancient boiler, no valves.

The installers aren't really happy with this and would prefer conventional S plan with one pump and two MOVs controlled by CH and HW signals (they don't really want to know that these come from two BDR91s).

I am happier with valving CH and HW separately anyway so I have agreed. I have a problem with Evohome losing contact with some remote radiators and can re-deploy the spare BDR91 as a second CH trigger controlled by another Evohome controller sited so that it can see both the missing radiators and the relay, but that's another matter.

At the moment a bypass loop for overrun pumping is not necessary as Evohome takes care of that, having control of both boiler and pumps (correct me if I'm wrong).

As I understand it, reading the manual, the new boiler does not have a dedicated overrun output signal, and just runs the pump when it wants. So I would need an automatic bypass loop after the pump to stop it pumping against closed valves.

I don't like that and would prefer the overrun to pump via the DHW loop when the demand for both CH and HW drops. I have an aversion to dissipating heat in a bypass loop and would rather see it do some useful work.

I think the way to do this is via an extra changeover relay, which switches the boiler input (Common contact) between the output from the HW MOV (Normally Closed contact) and disconnected (Normally Open contact), controlled by the boiler pump signal. The HW BDR91 switches the HW MOV to either live (Normally Open) or the boiler pump signal.
The net effect of this (ignoring CH which operates normally) is that the boiler runs when there is HW demand, and the MOV is forced open when there is pump demand, regardless of HW demand.

Is this a reasonable approach or should I just let the installers have their bypass loop?

Honeywell Evohome questions

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Hi, I'm at the stage of agreeing what changes we make to our CH system starting from the boiler outwards. Already read about the Honeywell Evohome and just wanted to check some things with people that are using the system. I'm likely to end up with 10 zones, one with two rads.

1: I think the controller can act as a zone, so I could put that in one room and remove the need for the HR92, is that correct? Would I just put a 'normal' TRV on the rad as well? Could save me cost of an HR92.

2: The HR 92s look pretty big (checked the spec sheet). Is there any operational issue with horizontal mounting rather than vertical? Towel rail we are looking at seems to need the TRV to be mounted horizontally.

3: Has anyone had any signal strength issues? I'm coming from house with solid limestone walls but our new house is a 1980s house with block walls mostly. I calculate max distance from boiler to a TRV is just under 19mtrs. (it's actually a bungalow and the boiler is at far side of garage).

4: Anybody found a good supplier regarding price? I checked the Honeywell Evohome shop so far but cant help thinking I need to look further.

robin

Netgear Orbi Mesh WiFi

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Help!

Because my BT HomeHub has never been as good as it should be, wifi disappears and all that, I have invested in Netgear's Orbi system. It seems to work fine and the signal is good around the house. One problem. The Evohome Control Panel does not see it. Everything else I have requiring a wifi connection has no problem and all have set up perfectly but the Control Panel fails to find the Netgear system. It is the only device out of many that will not connect. I have tried selecting "other" on the Panel and inputting the name of the Wifi Router and the password but it does not connect. The Panel sees the wifi of my neighbours either side of me and across the road but not the Neatgear despite being next to it. Anybody got any ideas? Has the Panel got an old type of wifi system in it?

Evohome: difference between T87RF and Y87RF?

Evohome: difference between T87RF and Y87RF

HR92 not responding correctly

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Hello all,

I'm having some issues with one of my HR92s and I just wanted to make sure it's not me being thick.

My study is an odd shape. One half of it has a mezzanine floor. So, standing on the ground floor, there is a ceiling above you at a normal-ish height. The other half has a spiral (well, helical!) staircase up to the mezzanine, and as such it's open to the floor above.

Under the mezzanine, I have a small-ish radiator. At the end of the room where the staircase as, I have a larger (but not large!) radiator. There is no heating in the upstairs part. (In fact, there's no cavity wall insulation either, as you'll see from the following graphs, but that's not directly relevant). Because of the shape of the room and the uneven heat demand, I've set this zone to be a multi-room zone so that each radiator can respond according to its local demand. The larger radiator at the open end of the room will clearly need to work harder since a lot of its heat will be going straight upstairs.

Here is a capture from my Domoticz monitoring showing the problem.

DomoticzDevices.jpg

You can see from the table that the smaller radiator (#604) is only calling for 14% heat, despite being 6C below the set point! The larger radiator (#530) seems to be doing its job just fine, but it's struggling to heat the room on its own as you can see from the following graph:

DomoticzChart.jpg

You can see from the graph that the square-wave is the set point. Currently, it's set to 18C. You can also see that the small radiator (I'm going to call the line yellow, but I'm colour blind!) just isn't heating at all. And you can see from yesterday (pink line, maybe) that the larger radiator did its best, but just couldn't manage with all its heat going straight up to the top floor.

Some days, however, it works just fine, as you can see below. (It never quite reaches the set point, but I believe that's because of the shockingly poor insulation, which is being dealt with.)

DomoticzChart2.jpg

So, basically, sometimes the HR92 on the small radiator simply can't be bothered. And sometimes it's fine. It seems like the underlying problem is that it's only calling for 14% heat, when it should be calling for 100% heat. This suggests to me that it's the HR92 that's at fault, not the plumbing/radiator. If I remove the HR92 and manually open the valve, the radiator heats up quickly (assuming there's a call for heat somewhere else and the boiler is on, of course).

Any suggestions?
Attached Images

Hot Water Help

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Hello, I want two periods on weekdays, and one long period at the weekend. But this throws up an error of overlapping times..... Help?

Capture.jpg
Attached Images

Controlling 3 separate plug sockets from one thermostat?

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Hi, I'm about to install three electric rads in our sitting room. My plan is to just plug them into three existing power sockets in the room. Ideally I'd like to control these sockets from a single room thermostat. I've seen plenty of options for controlling a single socket from a plug thermostat - or better from a remote room thermostat - eg this one from Floureon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floureon-Wi...f_rd_i=desktop

but I can't find a system that would control the power to multiple sockets. I had a look at home automation systems (eg Hive) but while that has the components, it seems that these components aren't well integrated to allow the thermostat module to control multiple sockets.

Is there a simple solution out there?
Thanks in anticipation,
Rob
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