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Message to philchillbill

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I had a private DM from philchillbill for some reason I cannot reply - Hence posting here - plus the community might be able to help.

You're in the NL. So you are using TCC EMEA instance. If you login to alexa amazon.com - then it will try to go to TCC US. You need to login via an Amazon portal (or use the local App store app) from either UK or Germany. This will then logically link to the TCC EMEA servers

Massive overshoot!

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Word to the wise...

When ordering an external sensor for your Evohome, don't take it from the delivery man, unpack it, bind it, and have it on a bookshelf within 2 minutes. If you do, it will continue to be reading 2.6C (presumably the temperature inside the delivery van!) and will take 45 minutes to slowly adjust to the actual room temperature, and during that time Evohome will run your room (with closed door so it's thermally "isolated" from other rooms) at full tilt.

Still, at least it's "warm" in the lounge now.

Or tropical.

Might have an artificial beach and some sun loungers installed.

Control of UFH

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Hi,

I've got an old B&W Evohome controller. This controls my CH via a BDR91 and 6 HR80s. I also have an UFH system which is controlled via a John Guest wiring centre and 2 wired programmable thermostats.

My HW has it's own timer and thermostat.

I have an S plan system and each has it's own 2 port valve and can fire the boiler independently. The UFH has a manual thermostatic valve that sets the temperature around the UFH but the water from the boiler will still circulate around the rest of the circuit (I think).

I wanted to bring the UFH under control of the Evohome and brought 2 DTS92 wireless thermostats which came with there own BDR 91s.

My plan was to just replace the JohnGuest theromstats with the BDR91s and then link the DTS92s to them to control the two rooms.

This would basically complete my original plan so that I can control all of the rooms from the Evohome.

What would be the benefit of upgrading to the Evohome WiFi ? I'm not really interested in setting the temperature of my living room from work, but I would like to be able to see the performance of the system in terms of demanded heat vs measured heat and what rooms are calling for heat to be able to optimise the programming.

Evohome Wifi - Clock Stopped

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Others have posted on this issue - http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbull...g-this-morning and http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/vbull...ome-controller. Woke up to no heat this morning due to clock on the controller had stopped overnight. Luckily I had read the thread above and that of another user with the same issue. Tried setting time manually, but in the end had to remove batteries and reset the controller. Took about an hour before all zones updated after the restart of the Evohome controller.
Hope that Honeywell personnel on this forum are listening and sort this issue out in the next update, surely one is due soon.

Completely new heating install, best way to configure for EvoHome?

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Hello all,

New here.

I'm having a fresh central heating and hot water installation done (all new pipework, new boiler, new rads, new unvented cylinder) at my new place which has a cellar, ground floor, first floor and second floor. There are 4 zone valves (1 for HW, 1 for cellar/ground, 1 for first floor and 1 for second floor).

My installer is competent but has not installed EvoHome before. He is going to call Honeywell for advice but I thought I'd ask here what the best way is for him to wire the zone valves?

Secondly, some of the house (second floor) may be unused for some time and I may want all the radiators there switched off, save for the hall way one, perhaps - should I get HR92s for this floor?

Thirdly, I don't want to have specific control of every single radiator (say bathrooms). How does this work with EvoHome which I understand has a limit of 12 zones?

Thanks in advance.

Toddler 1 - HGI80 Nil

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Was mystified to see - "Sensor error - Bedroom 2" appear on the controller - all was explained when I went into toddler's bedroom after his nap..

Anyone know if spare parts are available for HR92s? :(

LightwaveRF user wanting better reliability...

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Hi guys,

I'm a lightwaverf user - about 20 sockets and relays do my outside lighting and lamps around my home.

The trouble is the one-way communication and range (10m needed). I would really like to know for certain if my timer for my outside lights to come on at dusk is ON that the lights will be on when I come home from work.

I'd like to swap all my lightwaverf for a more reliable two-way system. As simple to use for my family as lightwave (the app - the intergration with Amazon echo) - but with better range, and the devices reporting back when they are actually on/off.


Thanks so much for the help!

HGI80 Supplier

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Hi Folks,

Looking at embarking on the Evohome journey, has anyone got a recommended supplier for the HGI80 gateway device ?

Thanks

Stuart

New System Install Advice...

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Evening all,

First post so go easy on me! I’ve done plenty of reading, and Richard has helped over on EvoHome, but I wanted a bit more information about the bare bones of the system.

Long story short, we have purchased a 1920’s detached, and it needs a complete re-plumb. To make it a bit more efficient, we are going to install and EvoHome system at the same time. I’m going to be using my usual plumber for the job (I’ve built up a lot of trust in him), but he’s not a Honeywell Connected specialist, so we will be working the EvoHome set up between the two of us. I’m a Mechanical Engineer by trade, so reasonably handy – Hopefully we will be able to manage it! (Famous last words?)…

To simplify the installation, I am going to install it as a standard EvoHome system first, and then hopefully move to OpenTherm later. This should take out the complication of the OpenTherm set up, so we can concentrate on the zoning etc.

It will be installed on a system boiler with 14 radiators. Boiler will either be Ideal, ATAG or Valliant (so I can complete the OpenTherm upgrade later). Tank size somewhere around 210-250l. I'm leaning towards the Valliant so I can run a matched cylinder, unless anyone has any other thoughts?

Intial question is what system layout is best to go for, S, Y or W. From my understanding an S will require some modification to hold open one of the valves later with the switch to OpenTherm? Can Y and W be set to hot water priority? Is getting hot water priority best to do to get quick recharge times for the cylinder?

I know I am going to need the hot water kit, and I believe a BDR91 to control the valve. I take it that I need a separate BDR91 per valve? Also Honeywells installation guide shows a V4073 valve offset from the T of the system. I thought this was a 3 position valve – Is this just schematically shown in the wrong position? Why does the valve move position when the HR92s are added to the radiators?

Also, I understand that with HR92s there needs to be some kind of bypass for the boiler. Is it better to do this as an uncontrolled radiator, or an automatic bypass valve? If the EvoHome controller is going to be positioned in the hall, could I run the hall rad without a HR92 (i.e. as the bypass) and then rely on the controller to stop the boiler when the temp in the hall is OK?

Finally, has anyone got any experience of using these on cast iron rads? We are replacing all the radiators in the house at the same time, and am massively torn between cast and columns. The rooms are quite large (lounge is 5w x 5l x 3h) and I know cast rads are supposed to be better for larger rooms. I just wondered how the system copes with the different way they deliver the heat.

Thanks in advance, and sorry if the questions are a little thick!

My HGI80 equivalent Domoticz setup without HGI80

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Hello,

Several people have asked me recently (in threads, and via PM) about my Domoticz setup which is equivalent to using an HGI80, but without the HGI80!

I intend to write more about it soon, but in summary I use a Raspberry Pi which has a radio board I bought from busware.de (I'll write more about this too). The radio board has an Atmel atmega1284p microcontroller and a Texas Instruments CC1100 radio chip on it. I have custom-written firmware which runs on the microcontroller and configures and interfaces with the radio chip to read the Evohome radio messages and decode them into the same format that the HGI80 produces. At this point, Domoticz thinks it's talking directly to a genuine HGI80 and everything is good! (Oh, and it can transmit too, so you have rudimentary control of the Evohome via Domoticz.)

I am a professional software developer, and the code I hacked together is somewhat shameful. I'm in the process of cleaning it up, etc., and will publish it here together with more information when I'm done.

If anyone has any questions in the mean time, please feel free to ask!

evohome security with Domoticz/HGI80

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Just a quick question: I know it's possible to read Evohome wireless data via a Domoticz/HGI80 and it seems like it's possible to control the Evohome via this method too (?) From what I can gather there is no setting to allow this in the Evohome setup (?)

What's to stop a neighbour setting this up and reading/controlling somebody else's system ?

Evohome or Tado

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Considering automating my entire heating system.

The house has 16 radiators all with traditional TRVs. Two rooms have 3 radiators so 12 zones in total if I have each room as a single zone but could group a few others if needed.

Everything including the hot water cylinder is heated from a gas boiler.

At the moment there is no zoning everything comes on together. I have have the option of manually switching a valve that turns off the radiators and just heats the water during summer.

Considering getting either a Tado or Evohome installed.
The general consensus on this forum seems to be that Evohome is better but wondering what are the advantages/disadvantages of both systems.

iPhone App for Evohome

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Hi All,

been running a Evohome install for several months now without too much in the way of trouble. The setup is slightly complicated with lots of underfloor heating loops on ground floor and HR92 on rads on first and second floor. Because this is a large property we've had to set two locations one which covers the ground floor and a second location covering the fist and second floor. In addition theirs a third location covering an annexe which also uses UFH and Rads on the first floor.

As I say, everything has worked just fine for months (installed it all last June/July) and have been using the iPhone app to control it on the fly whenever a modification was required.

The basic setting for the UFH in the main location is that it knocks off at 11:30 pm when the set temperature drops to 15 degrees. Even in very cold temperatures of the last two weeks the rooms have never gotten cold enough to drop below 15 and call the boiler. Last night, (the warmest night we've had in more than two weeks) the boiler was called at 1:00 am and when I checked what was going on (using the iPhone app) I found that the App was reporting a permanent set temperature for 62 degrees for every zone, but oddly it was not showing the names of those zones. I was forced to permanently turn of the heating and then go to the controller and re-establish the schedule, which seemed to work. However, the iPhone app is still not communicating properly with the controller, it still isn't showing the names of the zones and at times it tells me the app is not compatible with the set up. I can make modifications to each zone and these seem to take at OK and this can be checked at the controller. However, the app still isn't showing all the info that is expected (including zone names) and is not now showing even the room temperatures. I have deleted and re-installed the app twice, the second time powering off the iPhone in between delete and re-install all to no avail. I have deleted the app a third time, upgraded the IOS on the phone the to latest version, and re-installed the app. Still, it is not reporting the info for that particular location properly. The odd thing is that the set locations for the first and second floors and for the annexe do report themselves correctly, it's just the location for the ground floor that is not reporting itself.

Has anyone seen anything like this before and if so was it fixable without deleting and setting up all the zones on the ground floor? Is this an iPhone issue, a controller issue or an Evohome account issue?

EDIT: A bit of extra info, if I try to look at the schedule for one of the zones I get a "Schedule unavailable, there is a problem retrieving your schedule. Please check your systems compatibility or try again later." However, If I make a change, like overriding the schedule and setting the heating on permanently it will update the controller settings. So it is communicating to the controller, but it is not receiving updates back from the controller.

It's most likely the controller at fault here but is there a way to a force a power recycle of the controller or force a firmware upgrade to the controller?

Incidentally, I have the same problem whether I access via the home Wifi or via data on 4G.

Pete

Additional room thermostats

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I'm looking to add additional room thermostats to my evohome setup (as some of the HR92s give misleading readings due to radiator positioning). Am I correct in thinking that all of the following can be used as room temperature sensors - DTS92, HCF82 and HCW82? Are they all battery operated or do they need a mains connection? What are the relative benefits of each, as they all appear to be a similar price? Thanks

Evohome - Real World Savings.

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All,

I'd be interested to see what real world savings people are getting as a result of installing evohome, would probably be great if you could provide details of where you started, and where you've got to. Did it match what you were expecting, or what the evohome specification tool had forecast.

evohome disable 'low demand'

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I have an Evohome with S-plan controlled by 2 BDR91's, I'd like to disable the 'low demand' feature (cycling the boiler 1 min in 10), as this runs even when the heating and hot water is set to 'off'. I have a wood pellet biomass boiler which takes at least 10 mins to start, so asking it to run for 1 min isn't very helpful.

broken Evohome HR92 - Anyone disassembled one??

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Hi Guys,
One of my HR92's has decided to stop working. I have put new batteries in it, but still no good. It thinks all the batteries are low (even though they are from a fresh pack) and is just all round not working. Also if I tap it against my hand, it seems to lose power and then back on. I don't really want to spend more money, as it has already cost me a fortune 2 years ago. I have managed to disassemble it to a certain point, but cannot seem to get any further. The screen is off, and the top is off too. I am stuck with the servo housed in black plastic, but there seems to be a screw that I have not go the foggiest on how to undo. I wanted to check to make sure all connections are ok. Has anyone taken one apart successfully before, or even updated firmware??

Thanks guys..

Nick

Help with Evohome / Opentherm / Intergas

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Hello,

I wonder if anyone can help, I'm a relative newbie with Evohome and I suspect I've got some of the finer details of my setup slightly wrong. Helpfully the plumber installed the boiler, wired up the opentherm bridge then left :-(

In essence, I have an intergas system boiler, megaflo tank, opentherm bridge and evohome. My megaflo is controlled by a standalone timer and NOT by the evohome.

My house is split into 10 evohome zones. With the exception of my lounge, master bedroom and downstairs/upstairs corridor each zone has a single radiator with a HR92UK on them.

The master bedroom has two radiators and hence two HR92UKs - how do I know which one is acting as the thermostat? The lounge also has two radiators, two HR92UK and a T87RF2033 wall thermostat - how can I confirm that the T87RF2033 is configured correctly? The downstairs/upstairs corridor has two radiators and a further two HR92UKs - these are controlled by the Evohome thermostat.

Unfortunately I don't have mains gas, but instead I'm connected to a communal LPG gas tank - which I know is fairly expensive.

My problem is that my monthly LPG gas bills are around £100 which to me seems very high since this last month we've had our log burner running almost continuously to try to drive the costs down.

I know this is a very vague question, but can anyone recommend some suggestions on how I can understand how/why my LPG bills are so high, and also if there are any specific settings on the evohome/intergas boiler that I should be tweaking.

My other question, my HR92UKs have all been running for around 6 months, in that time, I've had to change the batteries in one HR92UK twice! Is this normal ? None of the other batteries have failed yet ?

Of course if there are any other useful details that you need then I would be happy to dig them out.

If its useful, I now have a couple of weeks of Domoticz graphs which I can share.

Sincere thanks in advance,

Paul

Logging and displaying temperature data with Raspberry Pi

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Hello,

About a year ago, I set up a Raspberry Pi to log my temperatures and set points. I wasn't a Pi expert at the time, and have hardly touched it since the summer.

The SD card is somehow corrupt, and I can't remember how I set it up, nor can I find the instructions I followed, which I am sure were on this forum somewhere! It graphed the set point, and actual temperatures.

So, have things moved on, and is there a better/easier way of doing this, or can anyone point me in the direction of the post or site showing how to get something up and running again?

Thanks!

ST Motion Sensor to trigger Hue Night Light

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Hi - long time reader of this forum but first time poster!

Can I use a motion sensor (specifically Aeotec Multi) to turn a Hue light on to night light? I have it coming on to.10% but ideally want them to come on as a night light over night
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